I'm planning on tackling the job of checking the clearances on my valves, and replacing shims if needed. I've done adjustable valves like what's on my 1000F, but I've not done any with shims. I have a couple of questions regarding the proceedures and the sequence of how you go about it.
[ol][*]Do you order or purchase any shims ahead of time, and if so are there certain ones that are used more commonly than others ?[*]Has anyone purchased a "Kit" of shims for their bike ? I'm asking because I have 2 F3's and it might make sense to do.[*]Do you always replace the valve cover gasket each time you do this job ?
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Any other adviceor gotchas that you can think of would be appreciated. I do have the shop manual. I'm also planning on a Excel Spreadsheet to help with the calculations of which shims are needed based on measured clearance, specification, current shim size and needed shim size.

 

1. First just measure the clearance. Dont order/buy any shims.
Just did mine (18Kmls) all spot on, so most likely yours will be ok too.
2. You can get a kit, not too expensive but i wouldnt. Even if any shims need to be replaced in worst case might be only 3 or 4 mostly on EX valves.
3. The gasket doesnt need to be changes unless its dammaged. Just use some gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket prior to reasembly.
Hopethis helps.

 

A few tips for this job:

-Whenmeasuring your clearances, all you need to do is get the cam lobe 90* off the bucket and take measurments. It does not matter what stroke or cylinder you're are on. What matters is that the lobe is off the bucket and you are recording the data for the correct valve location. The book's procedure is written as a fail-safe forthe inexperiecned and that's why they say to start at Cyl 1 TDC and go from there.

-Find out what you have for clearances and then go get your shims, if necessary. Any respectable dealer will have most of them already stocked.....you may even be reusing some of the ones already in your motor.

-There are no "common" shims that are used.

-Reusing the valve cover gasket is fine. I typically apply a small amount of Yamabond 4 on the topside of the gasket and then on the valve trainsurface on the engine.

-Be sure tomeasure the thickness of any and all shims that are being removed or replaced. If you have a 190 shim, spec it out to be certain it's indeed a 190....do this with the new ones too!

-Get one of those extendable magnets that look like radio antennas. Use that to remove the shim and bucket so you don't droptheminside the motor.....namely the shim.Unless you haveLucky Charms in your ***, your motor will need to come apart toget the pieces out.

-You certainly can do the specs your way but I think using Excel is a little much. Just grabpaper and a pen, draw outa large picof the valve arrangement, write down your "before" specs, original shim size and location, do your math, write down the shim needed (if any) for each valve and write downyour "after" specs once the cams are in. I went as far as individually labeling bags with shim specs and new location....I'll try and get some pics on here for your reference.

-Any cams that are removedget placed in a brand new plastic bag and sealed until ready for installation.

-Upon cam installation, liberallylube all friction surfaces on the cam and the and the motor with new motor oil. Clean and lube the cam lobes, shims, buckets, everything.

-Timing the motor is critical. There is no "well it looks close". It either is or it isn't.

-If you followed suggestion 1 for getting you clearances, make sure you don't install the cam 180* out from the crank. Basically, with Cyl 1 at TDC, all valves are closed.


Let me know if you're interested in seeing some pics. I did a complete rebuild of my FZ last winter and documented 95% it. I have numerous pics regarding adjusment of shim-under-bucket valves.


EDIT: I have a link too but you'll need to sign up to that forum to see all the pages and pics of everything.

 

please just do yourself a favor and take it to a reputable shop---I would hate for something to go wrong

 

Why? He's already done a lifter-type valve adjustment...why not try shim under bucket now?

 

Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it. You make some good points that I'll keep in mind when I do it.

Bergs, you mention find out what I have for clearances, then go get the shims. For clarity, I have to take the measurement first, then disassemble to remove the buckets on those valves that are out of spec. to find out what shim is currently in there. Then calculate what shim I need to make for the clearance correct, then go purchase it. Right ?

Any guestimates on how much time for a firsttimer on the F3 doing this job ?

 

Not a chance that I'd take it to a shop ! I'm certain that I can do a better job, more accurately and pay more attention to detail than any shop can "afford" to do. I'm exceptionally confident in my success rate of doing this job. Having 3 bikes give me an advantage that I can take my time and not worry about being down during good riding time, which here is all the time. I appreciate the concern though. Some folks aren't as mechanically inclined...

 

I feel ya---if you were here I'd send you to a shop that you'd be so happy with you'd cry---it's always scary hearing guys doing stuff like this, yeah I know not my bike not my prob but if it was me I'd hate to do something like that and have something go wrong.I'm sure you got skills with tools like none other and nothing will go wrong; just being the nervous Dad if you will.

 

Even if the shop is great, ethical and fast. They're still going to charge me something on the order of $250 to $300 or more. Shims....$5.75 each,gasketabout $35, the feeling of pride and accomplishment I get from doing it myself.... priceless .

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

 

For the most part, yes. As long as you know how to determine whether you are adding or subtracting the amount needed to retain OEM specs.

For example: If you're on the low-side of the specs then you're subtracting the differencefrom the current shim size because you need to bring the bucket down away from the cam lobe to retain OEM specs and to do that you need a thinner shim.

If you're on the high-side of the specs then you're adding the difference to the current shim size because you need to bring the bucket up closer to the cam lobe to retain OEM specs and to do that you need a thicker shim.

Keep in mind you can swap shims within the engine so long as the end result is the bucket/ lobe clearance remains in spec. I'm not gonna lie,there'sa fair amount of thinking involved with this. Just make 100% sure you know how to do the math to get within specs.

With the fairings off, I'd say 4 hours is not out of the realm of possibility.....do not rush it though. If it takes you 10 hrs then so be it.


Just let me know if you want those pics for reference and I can link to the thread or I'll get 'em transferred over to here.