Hey guys, I'm new here to this forum.

I have a 95 F3 and while changing my oil, I accidentally cracked the oil pan because I'm an idiot and was tightening it instead of loosening. (I swear the ratchet switched on accident)

So I already ordered a new oil pan, gasket, drain plug and washer.

So heres my QUESTION, I know that you have to use gasket maker on the oil pan when putting the new one on, but I assume I have to take off the headers/exhaust to allow room to remove it. My question is that do I have to use gasket maker on the headers too when I put them back on? Do I need new gaskets for those too?

And how complicated is removing the oil pan/exhaust? I'm a newbie to riding and of course working on bikes, someone please make me feel at ease.

Any help is greatly appreciated, and yes, I've done countless searches and looked at the manual a bit, It would just be nicer if someone could break it down for me easier of how much stuff I'd have to take apart and doing things the right way putting the parts back together.

And here... a photo of the aftermath. doh! >.<

 

Also, I bought this for the gasket maker for the oil pan. Threebond Liquid Gasket 1194 - BikeBandit.com

Did I make a right decision?

 

firstly STOP WORRYING these bikes are simp-ly to work on!

you do need to pull the headers off then undo the pan and replace with new.

you need new exhaust gaskets 4off i would go with alloy not copper.
i only use blue goo for the gasket dont as that was what i had recomended to me.
step by step guide-
undo slip on and link pip and remove

undo bolt under engine holding the downpipes on
undo 6 bolts at exhaust port then remove downpipes
throw old exhaust gaskets away

take drain bolt out and drain oil
undo all bolts holding sump on
clean mating surface
smear the goo on both mating surfaces of new pan and engine
bolt on sump to correct Nm and allow to set

put headers on loose first then tighten make sure bolt under engine is in
put linkpipe and slip on back on and leave gasket to set

fill with oil and check for leaks.
finally take it for a 2 mile ride check for leaks then a 10 mile ride and give it a check then no leak by then you should be good to go

hope this helps

 

Just had to go through the same thing on mine, for a cracked oil pan as well. The above description is accurate and the whole process is straight forward.

Here's a couple things I have a question about though.

-The manual I have says the 95 model doesn't require the goo for the oil pan, just the gasket alone. Thoughts?

-I never read anything relating to exhaust gaskets, nor did I see any when I pulled the down pipes off. Could the previous owner not have put any on? and how critical are having these gaskets? (I'm guessing fairly critical just wanting an experienced opinion)

-Bolt Torques: The book specifies various torque values for the exhaust pipe bolts, exhaust pipe mount bolt, oil drain bolt, etc. Aside from cracking the oil pan do any of these other items run a high risk of over torque-ing? or can they simply be tightened down and called good?


-FR8

 

hope that helps

 

I just started putting everything back together on my bike and i bent the flanges a little bit on my headers.

How bad is this? They aren't bent that bad... i definitely overtorqued it...

Do you think I will leak any exhaust?

Here is a picture. The inside is what is bent the most... i'd say double what you see in the photo below. I'm afraid to loosen it considering I just put in new gaskets and if I loosen it it will then leak. Should I just leave it as is?

 

Well I just found my answer...

So much for new gaskets...

 

mine are bent like that so i have absolutely no idea why they are smoking so bad. i believe it only needs 20Nm


ooo i lie i do know why you have all that smoke its from the grease you used to keep the gaskets in let it idle for like 15 minutes it should burn it all off.

if that doesnt work and your exhaust still leaks i dont have a clue why it would unless your headers still arents mating up to the ports correctly i.e. you havent put them on correctly not that the pipes are wrong shape/size.

 

Hey,

I've just done the same thing to my oil pan tonight and I used a torque wrench set to 38nm as stated in the Haynes manual, I was tightening it up and it just cracked.

I'm trying to find a new/used oil pan for a 1995 CBR600 FS any suggestions of where to locate one would be much appreciated. I've been looking all night on ebay and googling, but no joy in the UK.

Hope you get your bike up and running

Thanks everyone.

 

I have my used oil pan that I can sell you for cheap. 50 bucks and I'll ship it to you. (I'll have my friend weld it correctly [inside and outside] and rethread the hole, it will be just as strong, and shouldn't leak. i'll even test it before I send it.) [You can see photos of it above] I would have did it myself in the beginning but I already ordered the part. I was only interested in welding it if I didn't have to take the pan and exhaust off, but I had to anyways, so I'm just doing to fix the oil pan and sell it as a used part on ebay anyway.

You'll have to buy a new gasket or put on some gasketmaker yourself. I recommend the permatex ultra black. But I bought the original gasket which was around 8 bucks from Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Accessories by BikeBandit.com and you dont have to worry about the mess or waiting for it to dry. No oil leaks yet.

This will help you with the removal procedure, its a b*tch. You don't have much room to work between the headers and the radiator.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3...-600f3-106035/