CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

New Slip-On, Should I Re-Jet??

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Old 12-10-2009, 08:15 PM
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Default New Slip-On, Should I Re-Jet??

I just put on a two-bros slip on pipe on my '96 f3. Should I re-jet? If so which ones do you recommend? Is it something I can do myself or should I take it to a shop? I'm somewhat good with tools and I just started riding. Any help is appreciated. Also since I put the slip on, its been popping alot.
 
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Old 12-10-2009, 08:45 PM
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May not need to rejet, just tweak. Figure out if your bike is now running lean or rich and adjust the clip position on the needles accordingly. A jet kit won't magically set your bike to optimum. It'll need to be tweaked as well to reach optimum running performance.

Honestly, I'd recommend finding a guide on tuning your carbs as they currently are and give it a go. It may save you the cost of the jet kit. And if it doesn't, it'll give you some practice for when you do rejet it. Course if you feel like dropping a couple $100 on a mechanic...
 
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:47 PM
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Adding a slip-on doesn't affect the exhaust flow, so re-jetting is not necessary. Your carbs may need to be cleaned though if they haven't been done in a long time or if ever. OEM needles aren't adjustable, other than adding or removing a shim washer under it. There are no clip positions to change to. It costs about $40 to $50 to put your bike on a Dyno. If you have a shop around your area that has one that can check your A/F mixture to tell you for sure if your rich or lean while idling will help you with adjusting the A/F screws.
 
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by IDoDirt
Adding a slip-on doesn't affect the exhaust flow, so re-jetting is not necessary. Your carbs may need to be cleaned though if they haven't been done in a long time or if ever. OEM needles aren't adjustable, other than adding or removing a shim washer under it. There are no clip positions to change to. It costs about $40 to $50 to put your bike on a Dyno. If you have a shop around your area that has one that can check your A/F mixture to tell you for sure if your rich or lean while idling will help you with adjusting the A/F screws.
Oops... forgot my bike had Dr Frankenstein as a mechanic. Just... don't... ask...

Listen to IDoDirt
 
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:34 AM
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Well the guy I bought it from had it on a cbr stunbike, but I don't know what year, he told me it would fit my bike. I installed it two times and both times it fell off while riding until I got an exhaust clamp that would hold it in place. I'm gonna see if any shops around me have a dyno and see if it is running rich or lean, where are the A/F screws? Are they hard to adjust? thanks for the help
 
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:04 PM
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A good way to tell if you're running lean is when you're down shifting and the engine is at higher rpm 8K+ and there is a popping sound coming out the pipe. Another way to tell if you're running lean is by the spark plugs. If you are running lean, your spark plugs will have a whitish look to them due to overheating of the plug.
My bike was running a little lean and I shimmed the needles which took care of my problem. With our bikes, there are no clip positions on the needle. To raise the needle, you have to insert shims which prevent the needle from going lower into the seat. It's extremely easy to do, all you have to do is remove the air box and then remove the black tops of the carbs. There is a rubber diaphragm in there with a plastic cartridge in there. Deep inside the cartridge is where the needle sits. Pull out the set for the needle by take a machine screw and screwing it into the end of the seat. You can then easily pull out the set for the needle and then just turn the cartridge upside down. The needle should just fall out at this point. If I recall, Honda put in 1 shim. To put a total of 3 shims and that was good enough for my bike. When you are putting things back together, put just a touch of engine oil around the o-ring at the base of the set.
 

Last edited by marc0011; 12-11-2009 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:38 PM
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thanks for the advice, I will take notice and see if I'm running lean. How can I tell if I'm running rich? thanks
 
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:50 PM
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Other ways to tell rich / lean is messing with the air box. Take out the air filter and if things improve, you're rich. Or cover the air filter with strips of duct tape (restricting air flow). If things improve, you're lean
 
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Old 12-12-2009, 08:44 AM
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All of the suggesions you're getting here are excellent for determining Rich/Lean conditions. The thing you need to keep in mind is that if your carburetors are dirty and not performing correctly, then there's a good chance that any changes you make might not have the effect you're expecting. Before making any changes or adjustments, do yourself a favor and clean your carburetors to the best of your ability. Then afterwords, if you're still having issues you can go from there. When cleaning, pay close attention to the smaller ports. The large ports and passages are easy to do, but the smaller ones like the idle circuits are harder just due to their small size. Some of the openings are about the size of a small sewing needle. Use caution when using the carburetor cleaners on "O" rings and gaskets. Considering the age of our bikes, it's probably a good idea to replace a lot of the "O" rings. They're not as soft and pliable as the used to be.
 
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:07 PM
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Re-jet.

These bikes came into the country lean as a snake.There are quite a few benefits to this,other than horespower.

Holla back.
 
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