After looking at it more I realize that the ICM doesn't need to keep it grounded all the time. It only needs to ground it for a moment to allow the magnetic field to be created, then take it away. That way it utilizes less power than by having that coil energized all the time.

In the video here I'm checking the primary coils resistance in ohms. I'm getting 3.7 ohms. It's a little outside the specification of 2.5 - 3.1 ohms, but that's most likely due to my leads not having good contact with the connectors since I'm not holding it. In order to read the peak voltages your meter has to be capable of capturing very short duration pulses. The Fluke 87 has a capture rate of 1ms, or a thousandth of a second. When the ignition switch is turned on, you don't see any voltage drop across the coil. Once I'm capturing peak voltages you can see that it rises to the 100v minimum, so it's within spec.

Primary Coil Testing Video

 

my fluke meter kicked the bucket about a month ago, the one I have now doesn't have the range settings, I had to buy the 81 dollar peak volt adapter to make it work..


It just acts the ground isn't any good, every time I read peak it only climbs to 6volt, and my initial volt test only reads in milla-volt. I still think I must have a bad ground somewhere.

What makes me wonder though, it did this about 2 weeks ago, then I bought a new ICM and it worked for about 2 or 3 short rides. then back to same thing. borrowed a friends from his wrecked bike and samething, worked great for 2 or 3 rides.

the spark at plugs is orange and looks really weak

I haven't test R/R with bike running and can't as of right now (since it wont run)
I'm sure something is killing the ICM's though, and I would rather just go ahead and replace the R/R then keep killing ICM's just to make sure there is no mess up coming from it

 

If you unplug the ICM connector and check continuity from the green wire back to the (-) terminal of the battery you should have close to 0 ohms (something less than 1 ohm). If you have that, then you've got ground. It just seems improbable that all 3 ICM's are bad. Have you tried starting it with jumper cables on it ?

 

I have a jump box but don't use it for fear of killing R/R... I do have two other bikes and a really good charger, I have been moving battery's back and forth off charger to test with.

Also just tested ground and it tested from green to - terminal OK

i bypassed all the safety's last night just as a test

 

I did just buy this bike about two months ago, so its uncertain as too if the last owner tried starting it hooked to a car. As I know this is a really big NO, NO...

 

That's a myth. Jump starting your bike from a car is not going to hurt it. The current and voltage that a motorcycle engine uses is drawn by the systems it has installed. It's not pushed from the car or battery. Electricity doesn't work this way. The safety factor of not having the car running is that a car running can become a car moving. Car batteries have plenty of standby current to jump start a bike without having to start it.

 

I actually may have accidentally stumbled onto the problem tonight, I have the carbs off so their is no way it would start. but was going threw the electrics one more time in the during the night hours, and I seen the wires are sparking off the top of the motor when hooked to the plugs. I will pick up a set of wires from local shop tomorrow and try putting bike all back together and will let you know the outcome.....


It would be really nice if this is my problem

 

Also have another question, I have the spare cash right now.... So what Do you think about this

Dyna 2000 CDI Ignition+Coils+Wires CBR600 F3 95-97 | eBay

 

Personally, I'd stay away. You're better off just going with factory wires and know the quality of the parts.

Just send me the spare cash as a consulting fee...

 

the local honda shop was closed today. I hope to pick up some tomorrow