Hi all, just a quick question-,when removing my downpipes,oops,sorry headers for you guys over the pond! 1 stud came out of the head with the nut(for the life of me i couldn't release the nut from the stud,so have ordered a new nut and a new threaded stud from honda)

my question is- do i use a locking compound on the exhaust stud that threads into the alloy head or not?

getting there with the full service,hopefully back on the road in a week------- or so!

ride safe and enjoy,

Ant.

 

Myself I wouldn't bother, they are such a bitch to get out without thread lock so they should stay tight enough without

 

Yes, Honda manual recommends thread lock. When you replace the stud, use 2 nuts with a washer locked together to allow you to fully insert it.

Also, when tightening the downpipe plate start with the center stud then left/right.
Take 2-3 passes to ease the plate down evenly so it doesn't bind/bend the studs.

Ern

 

thanks matey,my thoughts aswell.shame Haynes has no reference to it!

 

I actually prefer the Clymer manual (besides the factory bible) for the F3. The Haines is a little lacking, imo.

Good wrenching, Ern

 

pretty much what madhattr said
but for the jam-nut method, ive never put a washer between the two nuts, not saying it wont work (never tried it), but to each their own.

 

cheers guys,when doing the locking a washer between to nuts method to insert the stud fully,is there a torque required? maybe 8-10 Nm or so?
or just get the thread fully inserted,with no thread left showing into the head?

ride safe and enjoy,

Ant.

 

The manual calls for 20 nm on the flange nuts, when installing the down-pipes.
It doesn't mention stud replacement, so I wouldn't exceed 20 nm while installing the new studs either.

Ern

 

cheers Ern