Go fast goodies
#21
03-17-2009, 09:18 PM
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#22
03-18-2009, 04:36 PM
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#23
03-18-2009, 05:11 PM
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#24
03-18-2009, 05:29 PM
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Oh Bologna!
Any washable air filter is better than an OEM paper element!
There expensive, restrictive and bad for the enviroment and not to mention an easy way for the manufacture to draw you back into the dealership after your initial purchase to spend more of your hard earned money on their products.
But I do have to give them credit though, it's a great marketing idea!
The only exception for when not to use a washable filter is when your running a fuel injected motor.
The filter oil applies itself to the Mass air sensor testing wires and throws off it's readings after time, and you have to clean the sensor more often than normal.
Buy the time you purchase 3 OEM paper elements (1 riding season) you would have more than enough money to purchase a replacement K+N filter and cleaning kit.
Plus in theory a less restrictive air filter element means more air flow and a more efficient and more powerfull engine...
This can be argued all day long and then some, I am buying my 35th motorcycle this weekend and I am on my 8th truck now and each and everyone of one of those vehicles has had a K+N airfilter installed and I have never had a engine fail from dirt getting past one of these filters.
I use washable filters and I think there the cats ***, BTW I have one on my Honda Masters Lawn Mower and it's 8 years old and it's still cutting strong!
JMHO - SIRR1
Any washable air filter is better than an OEM paper element!
There expensive, restrictive and bad for the enviroment and not to mention an easy way for the manufacture to draw you back into the dealership after your initial purchase to spend more of your hard earned money on their products.
But I do have to give them credit though, it's a great marketing idea!
The only exception for when not to use a washable filter is when your running a fuel injected motor.
The filter oil applies itself to the Mass air sensor testing wires and throws off it's readings after time, and you have to clean the sensor more often than normal.
Buy the time you purchase 3 OEM paper elements (1 riding season) you would have more than enough money to purchase a replacement K+N filter and cleaning kit.
Plus in theory a less restrictive air filter element means more air flow and a more efficient and more powerfull engine...
This can be argued all day long and then some, I am buying my 35th motorcycle this weekend and I am on my 8th truck now and each and everyone of one of those vehicles has had a K+N airfilter installed and I have never had a engine fail from dirt getting past one of these filters.
I use washable filters and I think there the cats ***, BTW I have one on my Honda Masters Lawn Mower and it's 8 years old and it's still cutting strong!
JMHO - SIRR1
K&Ns do not work well in these bikes (or carbed SVs)because these bikes work more on vacuum than a pump (FI being the pump).Putting in a K&N upsets the slides in the carbs,killing your midrange and your carb synch.FI does not have slides to upset,and K&Ns work ok in an FI bike.You have it backward.
This is not theory.I use action.I put all of this in motion,then I come here to help others save lots of money.I've literally spent thousands on the dyno ironing out carbs on F2s and F3s,both stock and highly modified,with wonderful results.
Back when these bikes were the "latest greatest" the people who sold the jet kits and the "filters" always said "Buy the jet kit,do not buy the filter".That's clear as day to me.
As if that weren't enough info,I race these and do quite well by most people's standards.
I put it in motion.I don't go by thery alone.If a K&N worked as well as your theories,I'd agree.But they don't.
Hi-Flo and EMGO sell OEM paper replacement filters for 25 dollars retail,btw.
#25
03-18-2009, 07:45 PM
Hmmm
Well then mr. johnson then prove me wrong with an independant dyno study showing me that washable filters are junk and I will retract my statement and say you are gods gift and you know it all.
But I personally have had nothing but decades of success using washable filters on Supermotos, Motocrossers, Short Track, 1/2 Mile and Mile Dirt Track Racers, Speedway Bikes, Hare Scramble, Ice Racers, Street Bikes, Cars and Trucks both Gas and Diesel fueled...Oh I forgot my lawn mower.
If you get back to lilpakistan239 original question he asked the forum about some simple hop up items for his 96F3 and with out answering his question you went on this rant about sprockets, filters, riding skills and how much money you spent on your motor and then slaming another member for making the recommendation to use a K+N.
Not everyone here has the luxury to have access to a modern shop and the experience to build and dyno a motor, if so everyone here would have full blown race bikes and the question would never have been asked.
At best 3/4's of the members on this forum will never run their F3's in race conditions using the bikes mid range and top end to the bikes full extent where your testing disproves free flowing air filters quailities.
At most besides cruising around town their looking to do some wide open striaght line runs against their buddies for at the most a mile or two where the hole shot wins and a missed gear looses.
They want their bikes to look and sound good with reliable proven bolt on performance parts that don't cost an arm and a leg and not months of down time porting heads and polishing rods with engine parts in boxes under the car port.
So back to the original question, K+N air filters claim a 5-15 hp boost by simply installing and maintaining one of their million mile filters, I agree that it add some increase in HP but not anywhere near their 15 hp claim.
Is it worth the $35 bucks for a stock CBR600 F3 with a slip on, yes it is!
SIRR1
But I personally have had nothing but decades of success using washable filters on Supermotos, Motocrossers, Short Track, 1/2 Mile and Mile Dirt Track Racers, Speedway Bikes, Hare Scramble, Ice Racers, Street Bikes, Cars and Trucks both Gas and Diesel fueled...Oh I forgot my lawn mower.
If you get back to lilpakistan239 original question he asked the forum about some simple hop up items for his 96F3 and with out answering his question you went on this rant about sprockets, filters, riding skills and how much money you spent on your motor and then slaming another member for making the recommendation to use a K+N.
Not everyone here has the luxury to have access to a modern shop and the experience to build and dyno a motor, if so everyone here would have full blown race bikes and the question would never have been asked.
At best 3/4's of the members on this forum will never run their F3's in race conditions using the bikes mid range and top end to the bikes full extent where your testing disproves free flowing air filters quailities.
At most besides cruising around town their looking to do some wide open striaght line runs against their buddies for at the most a mile or two where the hole shot wins and a missed gear looses.
They want their bikes to look and sound good with reliable proven bolt on performance parts that don't cost an arm and a leg and not months of down time porting heads and polishing rods with engine parts in boxes under the car port.
So back to the original question, K+N air filters claim a 5-15 hp boost by simply installing and maintaining one of their million mile filters, I agree that it add some increase in HP but not anywhere near their 15 hp claim.
Is it worth the $35 bucks for a stock CBR600 F3 with a slip on, yes it is!
SIRR1
#26
03-18-2009, 08:26 PM
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#27
03-19-2009, 11:50 AM
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Well then mr. johnson then prove me wrong with an independant dyno study showing me that washable filters are junk and I will retract my statement and say you are gods gift and you know it all.
But I personally have had nothing but decades of success using washable filters on Supermotos, Motocrossers, Short Track, 1/2 Mile and Mile Dirt Track Racers, Speedway Bikes, Hare Scramble, Ice Racers, Street Bikes, Cars and Trucks both Gas and Diesel fueled...Oh I forgot my lawn mower.
If you get back to lilpakistan239 original question he asked the forum about some simple hop up items for his 96F3 and with out answering his question you went on this rant about sprockets, filters, riding skills and how much money you spent on your motor and then slaming another member for making the recommendation to use a K+N.
Not everyone here has the luxury to have access to a modern shop and the experience to build and dyno a motor, if so everyone here would have full blown race bikes and the question would never have been asked.
At best 3/4's of the members on this forum will never run their F3's in race conditions using the bikes mid range and top end to the bikes full extent where your testing disproves free flowing air filters quailities.
At most besides cruising around town their looking to do some wide open striaght line runs against their buddies for at the most a mile or two where the hole shot wins and a missed gear looses.
They want their bikes to look and sound good with reliable proven bolt on performance parts that don't cost an arm and a leg and not months of down time porting heads and polishing rods with engine parts in boxes under the car port.
So back to the original question, K+N air filters claim a 5-15 hp boost by simply installing and maintaining one of their million mile filters, I agree that it add some increase in HP but not anywhere near their 15 hp claim.
Is it worth the $35 bucks for a stock CBR600 F3 with a slip on, yes it is!
SIRR1
But I personally have had nothing but decades of success using washable filters on Supermotos, Motocrossers, Short Track, 1/2 Mile and Mile Dirt Track Racers, Speedway Bikes, Hare Scramble, Ice Racers, Street Bikes, Cars and Trucks both Gas and Diesel fueled...Oh I forgot my lawn mower.
If you get back to lilpakistan239 original question he asked the forum about some simple hop up items for his 96F3 and with out answering his question you went on this rant about sprockets, filters, riding skills and how much money you spent on your motor and then slaming another member for making the recommendation to use a K+N.
Not everyone here has the luxury to have access to a modern shop and the experience to build and dyno a motor, if so everyone here would have full blown race bikes and the question would never have been asked.
At best 3/4's of the members on this forum will never run their F3's in race conditions using the bikes mid range and top end to the bikes full extent where your testing disproves free flowing air filters quailities.
At most besides cruising around town their looking to do some wide open striaght line runs against their buddies for at the most a mile or two where the hole shot wins and a missed gear looses.
They want their bikes to look and sound good with reliable proven bolt on performance parts that don't cost an arm and a leg and not months of down time porting heads and polishing rods with engine parts in boxes under the car port.
So back to the original question, K+N air filters claim a 5-15 hp boost by simply installing and maintaining one of their million mile filters, I agree that it add some increase in HP but not anywhere near their 15 hp claim.
Is it worth the $35 bucks for a stock CBR600 F3 with a slip on, yes it is!
SIRR1
Go back and read my post.Highly modded and stock F2s and F3s.If the K&Ns were better,I'd use and recommend them.
I stand by what I said.
BTW,I love flattrack.Too bad they don't do it here in Atlanta.
#28
03-20-2009, 12:06 PM
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As for sprockets,convert (if you haven't already) to a 520 chain and sprockets.Less rotating mass,less wear on your motor.
Put the bike on a diet if you can.1# of unsprung (moving) weight is equal to 7#s of sprung (fastened,fixed) weight.Both of these are equal to 1hp.Losing the stock exhaust is a huge help,for example.
As for a gearing change,don't go overboard.Minor gear changes only,in my book.Reason being is that yes it does "keep the rpms up",doing that also speeds up valve wear.That's a good way to run up your repair bill,and kill off your horsepower over time.Go 1 or 2 teeth up on the rear,and ride ride ride.Seat time makes you fast,not more motor or gearing.
Keep the questions coming.
Put the bike on a diet if you can.1# of unsprung (moving) weight is equal to 7#s of sprung (fastened,fixed) weight.Both of these are equal to 1hp.Losing the stock exhaust is a huge help,for example.
As for a gearing change,don't go overboard.Minor gear changes only,in my book.Reason being is that yes it does "keep the rpms up",doing that also speeds up valve wear.That's a good way to run up your repair bill,and kill off your horsepower over time.Go 1 or 2 teeth up on the rear,and ride ride ride.Seat time makes you fast,not more motor or gearing.
Keep the questions coming.
#29
03-20-2009, 01:50 PM
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