fresh rebuild, no start - CBR Forum - Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners


CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

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Old 09-14-2017, 10:48 AM
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Default fresh rebuild, no start

So 6 months ago i posted up a question about my bike and found out it had no compression. Now the motor has new rings, new bearings, and a new to it crankshaft. My old was missing a tooth on one of its gears.

yesterday was the day i was going to finally try to start it up. The battery was dead so i hooked up a starter box and the cranking was very weak, almost like a dead battery. I thought huh maybe the jump box is dead or something, decided to try jump starting with my car, still weak cranking but it was a bit better. I then tried to push start in 1st, all that dead was lock up the rear tire.

When i bought this basket case it came with enough extra parts to justify the price I paid plus it came with a bike, I was thinking of throwing on a different starter but I'm not sure if that starter being fried is the problem, i know it could be but i wanna see what the real smart guys around have to say. If you need any information on the problem please ask any, ill be watching this thread like a hawk. Thank for you for any help or kind words, i want this baby to run before the years done.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:11 AM
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Hi , unfamiliar with you post's so may be stating the obvious, but at least it will start with day 1, do you have a spark,have done this myself in the past, good spark but still wouldn't fire up, had my harness connected to the wrong coils, so it would backfire just not start up, but one way to open discussion
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CaBaRet View Post
Hi , unfamiliar with you post's so may be stating the obvious, but at least it will start with day 1, do you have a spark,have done this myself in the past, good spark but still wouldn't fire up, had my harness connected to the wrong coils, so it would backfire just not start up, but one way to open discussion
The spark plugs are new and the cables are do e right, wiring is correct for each coil. I think spark should be good
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:21 AM
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if it was completely dry i would have said put a fue drops of oil in each bore , no plugs in and try to turn it over from the crank with a socket. would also check that the head is torqued down correctly , to tight cams can bind . then check pulse generator and coils for resistance and see how u get on. left coil as u sit on the bike is 2 and 3 cylinder , right coil is 1 and 4 cylinder , cylinder on the bike as u sit on it from left to right 1,2,3,4

Last edited by Bloodvale; 09-14-2017 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bloodvale View Post
if it was completely dry i would have said put a fue drops of oil in each bore , no plugs in and try to turn it over from the crank with a socket. would also check that the head is torqued down correctly , to tight cams can bind . then check pulse generator and coils for resistance and see how u get on. left coil as u sit on the bike is 2 and 3 cylinder , right coil is 1 and 4 cylinder , cylinder on the bike as u sit on it from left to right 1,2,3,4
When I put the head the walls of cylinders still had a film of oil on them. Head should be torqued down right, according to the service manual it goes to 35ft lbs in 3 steps which I followed. The cam holders got tightened to 9ft lbs per the service manual. Everything bearing surface and anywhere the cams touched something got a layer of assembly lube. Tomorrow ill be able to work on it and will check how hard it is to spin with the plugs removed and report back with what I find. As for coils and pulse generator, those resistances were within spec last time i checked but that was before the rebuild, I can recheck them tomorrow as well.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:50 AM
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another thing i would do if u try bump starting do this in 2nd or 3rd , less chance of locking up rear , when my battery died i had to bump mine in 2nd as i also locked up rear when i tried in first hope it helps
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodvale View Post
another thing i would do if u try bump starting do this in 2nd or 3rd , less chance of locking up rear , when my battery died i had to bump mine in 2nd as i also locked up rear when i tried in first hope it helps
That could an easy thing to try before i start getting back into it. Have fast did you have to get push to start in 2nd? I've only ever needed 1st for a bump start.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:21 PM
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a slow jog in second and slipped the clutch (maybe around 5 mph) batt would turn neutral light on but not turn the engine over ( just click ) very dim headlight if turned on
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodvale View Post
a slow jog in second and slipped the clutch (maybe around 5 mph) batt would turn neutral light on but not turn the engine over ( just click ) very dim headlight if turned on
Alright tomorrow ill try push starting in second and see what will happen.
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Old 11-21-2017, 09:31 PM
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I figured it would be best to give an end to this and share what I learned but be aware, rookie mistake ahead. So I took the valve cover and cams out to see if the motor moved freely with out the valve train being pulled again due to have some problems with sticky valves during the build. This went perfectly so I check all the valves to ensure that none were sticky. All were good so I threw the cams back in and that's when I realized I never released the tensioner so the chain was tight as possible. Go the tool out and twisted the tensioner back and she twisted easy peasy and started up like a dream. The bike purred to life and I'm sure enjoyed having the cams broke in and the rings seated. Don't be like me and forget something so easy.

Sidenote: Sorry about reviving this dead thread but I figured someone one day might be googling and see this and have the ah'ha moment.
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