f4i gagues for a f3?
#1
08-26-2007, 11:37 PM
#2
08-26-2007, 11:50 PM
#3
08-26-2007, 11:55 PM
#4
08-27-2007, 12:09 AM
#5
08-27-2007, 12:16 PM
#6
08-27-2007, 12:23 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Poor in Maine
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: f4i gagues for a f3?
You should slow down and think about what your writing. Now what do you mean by "good choice"? Also ANYTHING can be made to fit/look good if you take your time and have alittle talent. I rode my F3 without any gauges. No need for them except if you like knowing your speed. In that case just get a small universal speedo for bikes. And since you dont have gauges, did you cut the speed sensor wire and ground it?
#7
08-27-2007, 04:22 PM
RE: f4i gagues for a f3?
I don't know if I agree that there's no need for gauges. I like to have the tach, water temp, neutral light, oil light and speedo. Yeah, you can do without them or mount a simple speedo, but I like having all the info. Anyways, It will require some custom work to get them to mount on you F3 fairing stay. You'll need to make custom brackets ect. I've also heard that if you want the water temp to work, You need to drill and tap you're block to accept the F4i temperature sensor. Maybe someone who's done the converrsion can conferrm that. And that writeup is great on cbrworld.net.
#9
08-28-2007, 02:10 PM
RE: f4i gagues for a f3?
Yeah I've done it, just dont get stupid and spend over $80 on a dash, you can get one for under 80 easy if you just wait. Your speedo will be slighly off due to the F4i using a different chain / sprocket / whatever. Due to your speedo being off, your mileage will be slightly off (that should be obvious to people 
)
The "kickstand down" indicator is either missing on the F4i or non functional, I'll be looking into that a little more. Your engine will still cut off if you put the kickstand down while in gear (wont start either, etc).
The temperature sensor wont work, you will have to wire up a thermostat from a 98-99 900rr thermostat. You can buy a NIB OEM one from a dealer for around $20 (at least my dealer has it for that much). I dont know if its difficult to GET to the thermostat or not, I havent done that part of the mod yet since my f3 never got close to overheating. Also the thermostat on the F4i is a digital readout, you will have to get the manual on the F3 and remember what the max / min / halfway points are in actual degrees farenheight. Also it'd be a good idea to figure out if the max temp on the f4i is the same max temp on the f3, if its not, the warning light on the f4i will come on too early, or too late. The difference may be marginal though, as the thermostat is likely to have a margin of error in it to begin with.
My oil light blinks constantly, not sure if I have it wired up incorrectly or if the thermostat will fix that, I will look into that too
What everyone on here is saying about the dash being optional is true, when I got my F3, the only thing that worked on the dash was the speedo.
You DONT need to pay attention to the tach and you DONT really need to pay attention to the neutral indicator. I'm not sure about your F3 but on mine its quite easy to tell by feel if the bikes gone into neutral or not. I typically never look down at the dash unless I'm completely alone on the road and want to know how fast I'm going.
speedo:
If you're in traffic, you dont need to know how fast you're going because everyone else is going the same speed, and it'd be dangerous to look down (potentially)
neutral indicator:
If you're coming to a stop, its better to keep your head up and "feel" for neutral than to be looking at your indicator while you slam into the guy in front of you.
tach:
If you're not on a track, then you dont need to be looking at your tach to know when to shift or not, I'm sure those guys are going mostly by sound anyway.
temperature sensor:
ok this might be handy, but only for checking when you're at a stop or when you're stopped in traffic.
Basically, its better to have to find neutral after your stopped, or get a speeding ticket than to either hit someone or have someone hit you, the first 2 options are far cheaper
Oh and about the odometer on the f4i, since I know someone will probably ask.... The speedometer is off, lets SAY (its not, these are hypotheticals) the f4i says 60 mph when you're really going 50 mph, after 1 hour of traveling on the f4i dash, it will report that you've traveled 60 miles, the F3 dash reporting the correct speed will report that you've traveled 50 miles, this is how the odometer is off. Those numbers are off, they are completely made up by me. If anyone knows exatly how far off the F4i dash is off compared to the F3 I'd love to know.
I reccomend you do what I did, write down the exact miles on the dash when you get it (the old F3 one and the new F4i one). That way if you want to sell it, you can do the math and figure out how many miles you've gone (according to the F4i dash) and convert it into the ACTUAL miles. You then take the actual miles traveled, add them to the miles on the old F3 speedo, and now you have t
)The "kickstand down" indicator is either missing on the F4i or non functional, I'll be looking into that a little more. Your engine will still cut off if you put the kickstand down while in gear (wont start either, etc).
The temperature sensor wont work, you will have to wire up a thermostat from a 98-99 900rr thermostat. You can buy a NIB OEM one from a dealer for around $20 (at least my dealer has it for that much). I dont know if its difficult to GET to the thermostat or not, I havent done that part of the mod yet since my f3 never got close to overheating. Also the thermostat on the F4i is a digital readout, you will have to get the manual on the F3 and remember what the max / min / halfway points are in actual degrees farenheight. Also it'd be a good idea to figure out if the max temp on the f4i is the same max temp on the f3, if its not, the warning light on the f4i will come on too early, or too late. The difference may be marginal though, as the thermostat is likely to have a margin of error in it to begin with.
My oil light blinks constantly, not sure if I have it wired up incorrectly or if the thermostat will fix that, I will look into that too
What everyone on here is saying about the dash being optional is true, when I got my F3, the only thing that worked on the dash was the speedo.
You DONT need to pay attention to the tach and you DONT really need to pay attention to the neutral indicator. I'm not sure about your F3 but on mine its quite easy to tell by feel if the bikes gone into neutral or not. I typically never look down at the dash unless I'm completely alone on the road and want to know how fast I'm going.
speedo:
If you're in traffic, you dont need to know how fast you're going because everyone else is going the same speed, and it'd be dangerous to look down (potentially)
neutral indicator:
If you're coming to a stop, its better to keep your head up and "feel" for neutral than to be looking at your indicator while you slam into the guy in front of you.
tach:
If you're not on a track, then you dont need to be looking at your tach to know when to shift or not, I'm sure those guys are going mostly by sound anyway.
temperature sensor:
ok this might be handy, but only for checking when you're at a stop or when you're stopped in traffic.
Basically, its better to have to find neutral after your stopped, or get a speeding ticket than to either hit someone or have someone hit you, the first 2 options are far cheaper
Oh and about the odometer on the f4i, since I know someone will probably ask.... The speedometer is off, lets SAY (its not, these are hypotheticals) the f4i says 60 mph when you're really going 50 mph, after 1 hour of traveling on the f4i dash, it will report that you've traveled 60 miles, the F3 dash reporting the correct speed will report that you've traveled 50 miles, this is how the odometer is off. Those numbers are off, they are completely made up by me. If anyone knows exatly how far off the F4i dash is off compared to the F3 I'd love to know.
I reccomend you do what I did, write down the exact miles on the dash when you get it (the old F3 one and the new F4i one). That way if you want to sell it, you can do the math and figure out how many miles you've gone (according to the F4i dash) and convert it into the ACTUAL miles. You then take the actual miles traveled, add them to the miles on the old F3 speedo, and now you have t
