When you said hose, you probably meant a smaller hose and not the intakes to the airbox. There is a small hose on the bottom right that goes to a Cal spec air inject. It can be plugged closed. I immediately thought of the intakes and forgot there are two others. The air inject and a valve cover breather.

 

it was a fairly large hose port on the back right of the air box (when sitting on it) that went directly down you can see the tape in the top right
https://i.imgur.com/gL2CqiG.jpg


these are the jets in it now.

the K i was refering to before was keihins symbol as expected and is on the slow? jets.


the needles are the second to highest spot



strange question, can i just like weld a bung on with an O2 sensor to tune this thing better

 

I raised the needle up one click so it's topped out, i've got a new fuel filter coming Wednesday though i might just throw it all together tomorrow and see what it's like

any likely hood it's the fuel pump?

 

The main jets you took out are smaller than factory.

Factory setup:

1/4 #135
2/3 #138

 

I used to have a Gs 500, that thing had a wiki page where everyone listed mods and jet sizes /altitude. I miss those simple carbs.

Any idea on if those needles are stock, or if the 130s are actually 130s and not some oddly numbered aftermarket that could very well be equlivant to a larger jet? Why and how would it be almost right af wise at high rpm (from the dyno) when the thing is bored over with a full exhaust and filter

 

The needles in the pictures are not stock. Same things goes for the jet. The only reason someone who have put that size of a jet would be for high altitude.

My F3 racebike old engine was overbored and I was using 145 jets. Now it had allot of other mod in the engine too. 1.5 lbs lightened crank, 4 degree advancer, race cams/degreed (secret numbers), Factory Pro race jet kit, etc.

It ran like a champ until one bad day. One of the retaining clips on the #2 piston wrist pin came out. From the looks of the damage. The wrist pin started to slide back and forth and up/down. The rod wasn't able to handle it and broke into 3 pieces. I would have to say the starter saved my leg. I have pictures on the computer somewhere.

 

It was never to my knowledge run high altitude. I have no idea what is done internally to the engine either I didn't see much in the paperwork, would you recommend jumping to like 140 jets and go from there? Opinion on genuine vs cheep jets? Also do you have any air filter recommendations?

Is there a place to like try out a bunch of jets to get it right so i don't end up buying 20 different jets and not having any luck?

I know the jet's aren't stock but i was wondering because I read somewhere on here if you buy one brand of jet kit their numbering is different so a 125 is actually like a 135 etc.

 

ok so i have to assume the jets are dyno jet jets.
FAQ Mikuni vs keihin vs dynojet

a 130 equates to a keihin 140

there's no way it would run with a 130 would it?

 

First you have to find out what jet is being used. The F3 uses Keihin carbs, so I like to keep same numbering system jets in.

GENUINE MIKUNI jets will have a stamping on them which is a "square within a square" on them.

GENUINE KEIHIN jets will have a "K star" stamping on them.

The Factory Pro that I use, have the K at the end (145K) for Keihin.

If you like I can send you some jets that I have laying around if you want to do some testing. Below is a list of sizes I have and how many. I do allot of engine and carb work for my side business.

135 (2)
138 (2)
140 (8)
142 (4)
145 (8)

 

According to your dyno print out, the fueling continues to get richer as the revs climb. Something is causing more fuel to be in the airstream than it should be. The air solenoid system on the F3 is does two things, it equalizes pressure in the carb so that it doesn't force fuel out, and it minimizes this trait at low speeds by acting on the air pressure differential signal from two outer air tubes and the two inner air tubes from the ram air intake. Your bike doesn't appear to have the solenoid valve. Got to research bypassing the air solenoid for clues on this.