eating batteries... : (
 

so i got my bike back from the shop the other day. my first ride after that the bike dies sitting in traffic. so i push it off to the side and decide its my battery. so i change the battery. and it works like a charm for 3 days. then it dies in traffic while idling again. is it the r/r? thats what im thinking.. since it was a brand new battery sucked bone dry in 3 days. also do f3 tend to have this problem and if so is it usually the harness or the actual r/r?

update: so i unplugged the harness from the r/r after charging the battery and when i put the meter in the harness only one of the five prongs makes the light come on. is that how it is supposed to work?

Yes and no. The only reason you're getting power on one terminal is because all you're doing is measuring the battery voltage.

To test the RR, you need to check the actual voltage with the bike on and the RPMs above about 3-4k. You also need a meter that will read actual voltage...not just light up. (I'm guessing that's what you mean by it "lighting up")
It should be up in the 14-15v range at 3-4k rpms in order to charge the battery.

If it's not charging the battery, then you know it's either the rr, the stator, or the wiring/harness. (most likely rr)

+1 what he said.

get a battery tender jr. cycle gear got em. helps keep a full charge on the battery when your not riding it and you will know you have full charge when riding. same thing happen to me. if you know your gonna be in traffic a long time turn the idle up or keep the throttle around 4500-5000 so the battery will charge. its gonna be obnoixous but at least u wont be stranded.

I just turn off the bike when i know its gonna be a while. :)

Pick up a Service Manual. It will walk you through a r/r & stator test. I dont think it would be the harness, just b/c I dont think that is very common. However, f3's are known for burning up r/r's, they are grounded right to the frame so they overheat fast if you dont use a battery tender. So try testing the r/r first, there is a nice chart in the Service Manual that tells what the ohms should read between all the terminals. If It turns out to be the r/r, thats a good thing. Its an easy fix and cheap. If the r/r chekcs out, then its prolly the stator which is still easy to replace its just more money and little more difficult (always a good time to change the oil....) good luck.

so how do you guys use the battery temder when not riding? do u have pig tails hooked up to the battery so you dont have to take off the fairings or do you take those fairings off? I had a bobber before buying this bike and it was a hell of alot easier to get to everything.
Mike

never charge mine during my riding season since i ride everyday. sometimes during the summer i will not even touch my bike for about 1-3 weeks based on the weather but battery is still fine so i'm guessing r/r on this one as are others

it'd be a huge hassle to me to charge during the riding season. i'd have to take off rear fairings, unbolt seat, unbolt battery lid, take out the battery, bring it in, hook it up, remember to put it back in when i ride, screw bolt in, then seat bolts, and then rear fairings. too much work for me :|

Battery tenders come with clips and a plug on the end. You just connect them to your battery terminals and then run the wire out the holes on the side of the battery box down to your coolant reservoir and let the plug dangle. Then, when you get done riding plug your 12v battery tender into an outlet and connect the plug from the tender to the plug coming from your battery. This way you will not need to take the fairings off and pull the battery (some tenders have alligator clips, then you would have to, dont buy that kind) Just go pick up a tender, open the box and you'll see what i mean.