This is killing me!!! Got a new battery last fall because it wasn't holding a charge. Rode it for a couple weeks. Fine. One night I see the r/r smoking. Liquid metal was coming out of it. It's toast. Got a new one... Rode fine for a week, then dead battery again. Charged it, and it woud not hold a charge. Had it tested, and it was toast. Warrantied that out.. battery might have gotten a dead cell from old r/r, so I got a new batt. Voltage still drops slowly when it is running. Thought it was the stator. Got a new one. Dammit!!!! Still same problem. Got down to like 11.8v, and I shut it off. As soon as I shut it off the voltage jumps back up to 12.2v+ WTF is wrong?? Anyone have any ideas? I checked the plugs, and nothing is melted. Ground to battery is fine. What else is there?? Getting ready to scrap this bike!!! Been a great bike so far.(fuel pump and fuel cut-off relay were replaced in the fall too.. That was faulty..)

New tires, plugs, fuel filter,chain and sprockets, F & R brakes, fresh oil, fuel pump, fuel cut off relay, R/R, stator. What else does this $$$ pit need??? Help please!!

 

is that the voltage at idle? charging system doesnt start charging till about 3500 rpms or so.

 

that's fine, but even with the brights on and at 5k rpm, it isn't going up. Should be between 13 and 14v when charging, but it is 12v, or less when it is running.

 

I'll get my manual out and walk you through.

 

I looked in my manual, but cannot find the problem. Checked rr, stator and both checked out fine. Didn't see any wires loose. I don't know what is wrong with it...

 

I won't have time until tomorrow to look over the diagrams, but I will get back to you. I like electrical problems, so... no worries.

 

keep us posted. i have a similar problem except i just know that for some reason my battery is dead and it's new this year. Bike runs just fine but just have to get a push start. Oh and it cranks over like a dead battery would.

 

I'd check out the r/r again, I know you just changed it but you never know

 

I'm getting ready to go mess with it now. I'll keep it updated. Thanks guys. Hopefully I can find something.

 

OK... I finally got a chance to look at the diagram.
It is a pretty simple system, so I think we will be able to help you confirm the issue.

1. Use a volt meter to check your key off battery voltage and WRITE it down.

2. Unplug your rectifier, and connect your volt meter's black probe to the rectifier harness green wire, then connect your volt meter's red probe to the rectifier harness red/white wire and WRITE down the voltage.

3. If your step 2 voltage is less than your step 1 voltage, replace your 30amp fuse. If still lower, check your ground wire.

4. Test 1 and test 2 should be the same result... Tell us what you got.

5. If you pass step 1 and 2 (For example, both are 12.4 volts), then move forward.

5. Put your voltmeter on the ohm low scale (10 ohms or lower scale). With your rectifier still disconnected and your key still off, connect your volt meter's black probe to the rectifier harness 1st yellow wire, then connect your volt meter's red probe to the rectifier harness 2nd yellow wire and WRITE down the ohm value. Leave the your volt meter's black probe on the rectifier harness 1st yellow wire, but this time, connect your volt meter's red probe to the rectifier harness 3rd yellow wire and WRITE down the ohm value.

6. If your battery voltage is between 12 and 13 volts, and your step 2 voltage matches. Then it all boils down to the Alternator or Rectifier.

7. If your step 5 test returned 0.1 to 1.0 ohms between the 1st yellow and the 2nd yellow wires, AND 0.1 to 1.0 ohms between the 1st yellow and the 3rd yellow wires, than the RECTIFIER is bad.

8. If your step 5 test returned lower than 0.1 or higher than 1.0 ohms on either test, than your alternator windings are bad.


THATS IT...
Let us know what you get....