Clutch Replacement
#1
Clutch Replacement
Hi All
has anyone replaced thier clutch on the F3?
have a couple of questions before I open her up.
Can I just change the friction plates with the old discs? or do I
I need to replace both friction plates and discs?
is there special tools required once I get in there ?
any advice would be appreciated.
cheers
cliff
has anyone replaced thier clutch on the F3?
have a couple of questions before I open her up.
Can I just change the friction plates with the old discs? or do I
I need to replace both friction plates and discs?
is there special tools required once I get in there ?
any advice would be appreciated.
cheers
cliff
#2
To open the central nut you need to either buy or make a socket that looks like this.
You can swap the friction plates without swapping the steels, however you do need to measure them for warping against a flat surface, for example a pane of glass. If they are straight and don't have any heat discoloration you can reuse the old steels, but if they are out of whack you naturally need to replace them as well.
Also inspect the clutch basket for any wear, if there are visible notches at the sides of the basket made by the friction plates they might stick.
The notched sides on the picture should be relatively smooth.
#3
its a pretty straight forward task. as mattson said, simply check that the steel plates arent warped and be sure to measure their thickness. Its been a couple years since i did an f3 clutch, but i dont recall needing any sort of special tool like mattson posted. Anyway, just keep track of the order that things come out, there are several spacers and springs that need to be oriented correctly or else you'll have issues after you get it back together...dont ask me how i know this
also, dont worry about damaging the cover gasket, if there is one. Just clean up the surfaces and use a black RTV sealant.
also, dont worry about damaging the cover gasket, if there is one. Just clean up the surfaces and use a black RTV sealant.
#4
#5
I haven't done an F3, but I have done 3 Honda clutches (954, 600rr, and a 1000rr) and they were all 30mm nuts for the basket. They were all staked nuts FWIW.
I don't think you need to take it off though if you're simply swapping out discs and plates - just the nuts/springs holding the pressure plate.
I'd swap for fresh steel plates if I saw signs of heat, even if they're not warped yet...
I don't think you need to take it off though if you're simply swapping out discs and plates - just the nuts/springs holding the pressure plate.
I'd swap for fresh steel plates if I saw signs of heat, even if they're not warped yet...
Last edited by Conrice; 01-02-2016 at 06:17 AM.
#6
#7
oh crap
I got in there and now I'm faced with the nut. does anyone know how I get this off of do I even need to undo this bolt . both my bike f3 and my old bike f2 have like an intentional mark on the nut. I'm worried now because as I turn to loosen the entire casing turn with it. tried to stop it by jamming a socket on the other side where shaft is , that just busted the casing , luckily it was my dead f2 ... how do I get this bolt of or do I have 2 to get friction plates out ?
#8
#9
I've had the luxury of doing a couple F3 clutches. ;-) Horse_power, you need to bend that peen out so that you can easily thread off the nut. I replace these personally, but you can give it a shot at reusing it. Once you're done and installing the nut, be sure to peen it back in.
#10
Mattson included a pic of the tool you need earlier in this thread. Don't fret too much, that is when you make mistakes. Take your time and you will get there.