Cleaning Carbs.
#1
Cleaning Carbs.
I have a 96 cbr600 and i took the carbs off and cleaned them very good and i was remembering that someone had said that the rubber boots that hold the carbs to the bike could be made soft again if you boil them in water. If so does anyone know how long to boil them? Also when you put the fuel/air mix screw back in (the D shaped one) how many turns out from all the way down do you need to turn it for it to be correct?
#2
for the air fuel set screw 2 turns from bottom is good for stock jetting. as for the boots, i have never heard of boiling them... unless they are cracked and dry rotted, i wouldnt be concerned with the condition. all they need to do is seal the air/fuel mix going into the intake ports. they are technically considered intake manifolds. if you disassembled the carbs, dont forget to sync or it will run worse than before...
#3
Depending on how much money (if any) you are willing to spend, you can get the boots at about $10/ea here http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1996&fveh=3045
But might try www.cycle-parts.com because usually their shipping prices are better and prices of items are just a few cents more.
But might try www.cycle-parts.com because usually their shipping prices are better and prices of items are just a few cents more.
#4
dont buy new boots unless the old ones are leaking. here is a time proven test to reveal any leaks... get the carbs on and all hooked up and start the bike, then take a can of carb cleaner and with the long tube attached, spray a bit around each carb boot. if you hear the engine rev up, it means that there is a leak and the carb cleaner (which is like jet fuel to the bike) has made its way into the combustion chamber and revved the bike. if that happens, recheck all the band clamps and seating of the boots to verify they are all seated and tight. if it happens after you have verified, then you most likely have a cracked boot. if you do them one at a time, your bike will tell you which one is leaking. just pull that one and try and pry it apart and check for cracks.
#5
#6
as far as the fuel air set screw, how many turns would depend on the level of intake/exhaust work and jetting that you have done to the bike. jetting is not an exact science, and to get it just right, it really does require dyno time. but for those that cannot afford to put their bike on the dyno, one of the most tried and true methods to get it pretty damn close is to jet it mildly and then begin to ride test the bike. take is out and run it through all the different loads that you can. if you find a flat spot or a bog down you will want to take note of the rpm range that it happened at and then bring it back close to your working area and give it about a good half mile rip at the specific rpm range, and then kill the bike and get it back. then, you would pull the spark plugs and read them. for most people, this is even a little extreme. most just jet it to about where they think it should be and then listen to the engine while riding for back firing and bogging and then look for flat spots in the power band. these motors dont start making good power until about 5500, so dont freak if you find a mild flat spot in that range. i know this is a lot of info to digest, but jetting is a lot more involved than most people would like to believe, well maybe not "jetting", but tuning is. as far as the gas tank goes, you could try some dry cleaning solvent such as pd-680, or even some isoprpyl alcohol, but make sure to take the petcock and vent lines off first.
#8
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#10
i boiled my intake boots in a pot of water some years back; might have been me you saw the post from. i did it on the very lowest setting of the stove. low enough that you could stick your finger in there and it wouldnt hurt you for a couple seconds. i took them out, worked them with my hands to stretch the rubber, put them back in; repeat etc until i was happy.