Do you still have clutch and sidestand switches connected?

 

Yes everything is connected.

Will I hurt anything by permanently bypassing the diode?

 

Well, you've messing only with neutral-light on clocks.

Other side of 3-way diode won't be connected. Which allows ignitor to fire sparks and starter-solenoid to crank engine.

Try inserting diode the other way. Does neutral-light work now?

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

I ordered a new diode and it came in today. I tried it but still nothing happens. Is there anything else that I can try before I start to unwind MILES of electrical tape and trace wires?
And if that is what it comes to, can someone get me a 98 f3 wiring diagram?

 

No need to trace wires, we have modern technology that makes it much, much easier.
Just measure resistance of wire end-to-end.



IF it's no-continuity/open-loop (1 on meter), then wire is broken.
ELSE if it's 0-ohms, wire is good.

Simple. Much, much faster. No need to unwrap harness, no need to trace wires.

Now put original diode back on bike, so we can be sure it's in state as measured before. New one can be broken for all we now and we'll have even more testing to do to confirm it's good. Then...

 

It is a 3 prong diode. It only goes in one way.

I will start tracing wires with the volt meter.

 

Here's diagram:


No need to trace wires, these measurements will show if wire is connected or not conected/broken.

Measure following to determine where fault in neutral-light circuit lies (trans in neutral):

1. measure resistance between lt.grn connector at neutral-switch to chassis-ground, ohms = ???
2. measure resistance between ends of lt.grn wire between neutral-switch to diode, ohms = ???
3. measure resistance between ends of lt.grn/red wire between diode to neutral indicator-bulb socket, ohms = ???
4. measure resistance between starter-solenoid connector's grn/red wire (red probe) to chassis-ground (blk probe), ohms = ???

Measure following to determine where fault is in safety-interloc circuits. This has effect of no-spark from ignition-module if it detects safety problem:

5. at left-hand 9-pin harness-connector, measure resistance between grn/wht and grn/red wires, ohms = ???
6. squeeze clutch lever, measure resistance between grn/wht and grn/red wires, ohms = ???

7. at kickstand-switch connector, measure resistance between grn wire and chassis-ground, ohms = ???
8. kickstand down, measure resistance between grn and grn/wht wire, ohms = ???
9. kickstand up, measure resistance between grn and grn/wht wire, ohms = ???

10. disconnect ignition-module, measure resistance between grn/wht wire and chassis-ground, ohms = ???


One or or more of these measurements may not be correct. Which points to that spot for closer examination.

 

ok.
just one question, by "One or more of these measurements may not be correct" do you mean that it does not have continuity or infinite ohms.

 

Post ohms you measured for each step and let's take a look.

Some should have continuity, 0-ohms
Others should have no-continuity/infinite ohms (1 on meter).
Basis of boolean-logic and digital circuits. 1 and 0

 

Ok here you go.

1. continuity
2. continuity
3.continuity
4. infinite ohms. no continuity
5,6,8. no grn/wht wire at the either 9pin connector on the gauge panel.
9. infinite ohms. no continuity.
10. 6500k ohms. (it read 65 on the 200k ohms setting. so 6500k ohms?)

on the ones that I said "infinite ohms. no continuity." it was kinda weird. I did not get any ohms readings, but I also did not get a beep of continuity either.