So I have an odd issue and I suppose it would be best to start from the beginning:

Bike had been sitting for a little, before the sit the plugs were replaced and then after the sit I gave her a fresh oil change. After the oil change I began the process to get her up and running again, after this she started up no problem whenever I would go to try. There is no choke cable on the bike so I manually mess with the choke mechanism.

The other day I was riding the bike home after riding her around and letting her idle for a while, shutting her off and on intermittently (as if going to multiple stores around town); each time I would go to start her back up it was instant and no choke was even needed. As I was driving her home I rev'd her up to about 8-9k RPMS and then shifted and she dropped to about 4k, after the shift she began to sputter and then died; power was still to the battery but she wouldn't immediately start back up. So I took her home and decided to not try and deal with it right now, came back in the AM and attempted to start her up to no avail; messed with the choke a little and she came to life, however I released the choke before warm (it was hurting my hand) and after that she has not come back the same way since. After trying to get her to start back up after this I drained the battery , so I hook her up to a car that is not started and began to attempt the process again. Something odd happened while having her hooked up, I never abuse the starter when trying to get her to start I will allow breaks etc but never hold it down for more than 10 seconds at a time, but for some reason ( I am assuming I hit something on the left side of the bike trying to pull the choke mechanism) I now have to reset the kill switch (flip off and back on) in order to get the starter to do its thing (for some reason it will only give one attempt at starting without having to "reset" it). The starter isn't clicking or anything, it's not acting any differently other than this "reset" issue.

I can not seem to get answers anywhere so I figured what better place than a board containing owners like myself. All help is appreciated and I thank you in advance!

 

Try jumping across the starter relay. If it turns over ok, doing that, it's probably fouled contacts on the kill switch. Check all of the wire's leading to the starter and relay, from the battery, as well. Look for loose connections, frayed/worn insulation, etc.

I would also, make a point of checking the r/r (regulator/rectifier) on the right side of the bike. Look for signs of heat-related damage. Warped/melted connector, burnt pins inside the connector, melted insulation on the wires leading up to the connector and r/r, cracks/bubbles in the epoxy-fill on the r/r, itself.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

Thanks Ern,

Well I do have a multimeter (voltmeter) but do not really know how to use it. I planned on checking the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay but I do not know how to test it and can not seem to find a service manual (and even if I did I'm sure it would take me a while to figure out what it's telling me so if anyone can shorten it up that would be awesome).

As far as the starter issue I was having, I brought the bike back out today to begin tearing her even further down to check issue, I have trimmed a hose that had a small infraction in it (that I believe caused a drip-like leak) that was going from the fuel pump to the carbs, but I am not sure if this fixed anything because my bike is still torn down past the airbox. Is there any way to test if it will run before piecing the airbox and tank back on?

As for the R/R I believe mine is relatively new, I noticed it has "cooling fins" and honestly I see no damage to anything around it.

One thing I did notice is this: The cylindrical pieces that the spark plug things plug into; the one that has 1-2 connected to is is missing a nut on one of the bolts and after seeing that there is metal on the piece itself I imagine the nut is to secure a ground of some sort there, this must have been missing for a while though and its never been an issue so I am unsure of its importance.

Right now the bike is torn down and I am leaving it that way open to suggestions of what to try!

 

Well here's some updates put up on other sites I figured I'd share encase anyone wants to give some input, I'm surprised there hasn't been much. Well it's somewhat long but it gives you the idea where I'm at:

Tiny Update: Went through the service manual and followed the instructions on testing the relay etc.
-There is spark, I even got a little shocked trying to test it (hard to see blue arc in day light). [CHECK]
-When ignition is ON the relay connector has Voltage [CHECK]
-The resistance (same as continuity from what I hear) was in between 0-1 OHM I believe meaning that there is no continuity [CHECK (if it does truly mean there is no continuity)]

Now I am going to hook a paper clip (jumper wire) where the manual states on the relay connector, while disconnected from the relay itself, and I am supposed to see the output of the fuel pump. Seems easy enough. However it is a hard thing to test without holding the tank and when I do that I am not able to hook up the bigger vacuum hose (is this important for this test?).

Thank you!

EDIT: UPDATE: Okay so I slightly hooked up the bigger vacuum hose (the small one is constantly connected) but I do feel these are needed in the fuel pump test. Here's a few things:
-I shorted the relay connector with a jumper wire as stated in the manual
-I had the fuel pump hose that connects to the carbs in a mason jar
-I put the petcock down (I also tried up) and then turned on the ignition for 5 seconds as per the manual
-A little tiny intsy wintsy bit of gas came out... (not the 58.33333 cc/ml that was "supposed" to)
-Perhaps low Voltage in the battery would cause this? Will test with battery hooked up to a car

Sooo... looking sort of like a fuel pump issue but perhaps I'm doing something wrong. When I disconnect the hose that goes from the petcock-> fuel filter -> fuel pump it does poooouuuuurr out gas when the petcock is left on (I just accidentally did this) but I am curious if the fuel filter could be on backwards causing this issue I am having with my fuel pump? But seriously which way is correct? Does the metal ring side of the filter connect to the petcock hose or to the fuel pump hose?

If my fuel pump is shot, I do not want to spend $30 on a Napa one, what are the disadvantages of gravity feeding? If I gravity feed do I gravity feed from the petcock to the fuel filter to the carbs? Or bypass the filter? The pump on my bike right now looks to have the Mitsubishi symbol on it, is this not stock because it fits perfectly and would be a good note to make for those looking at after market pumps.

Bout to go outside and test her with the battery hooked up
-2nd Update: Hooking up the battery did absolutely nothing... /discuss

AND

So I am wondering if I read something wrong in regards to checking my relay. I originally had my Ohmmetter set up to x100 (it will multiply whatever it is by 100) that is when I got the reading from 0-1; when I set it to x1 it read 4 Ohms. With that in mind and 0 Ohms meaning there is continuity here is the text from the manual:

Turn the ignition switch OFF
Remove the side cover (page2-2) and disconnect the fuel cut-off relay connector.

Check for battery voltage between the Black (+) terminal and ground (-)
There should be battery voltage with the ignition ON.CHECK, I do remember seeing voltage

If there is no voltage, check for an open circuit or loose connection in the Blue/Yellow wire.
If there is battery voltage, check for continuity in the Black/Blue wire.

Check for continuity, between the Black/Blue wire and ground. This is where I saw ~4Ohms

If there is continuity, replace the fuel cut-off relay.

If there is no continuity, short the Black and Black/Blue terminals at the relay connector with the suitable jumper wire. (This is the step I did to test the Fuel Pump)


Disconnect the fuel pump 2P (Black) connector and check for battery voltage between the Black/Blue (+) and Green (-) terminals with the ignition switch ON.

If there is battery voltage, replace the fuel pump.
If there is no battery voltage, check for an open circuit or loose connection in the Black and Green wires.

This is the test I attempted and gave the results of, it is a page after what I've listed and it is labeled: DISCHARGE VOLUME INSPECTION

Disconnect the fuel cut-off relay connector and short the Black and Black/Blue terminals with a suitable jumper wire (see page 18-5; [previous page]) I used a paper clip

Remove the right side cover (page 2-2) and disconnect the fuel tube from the tube joint. Hold a graduated beaker under the fuel tube.

Turn the ignition switch ON and let the fuel flow into the beaker for 5 seconds, then turn the ignition switch OFF. This is when I saw nothing come out

Multiply the amount in beaker by 12 to determine the fuel pump flow capacity per minute. (Proper flow capacity= 700cc (23.7 US oz, 24.6 Imp oz) min./minute
-END

I hope that's not too confusing, I do know it's long but hey now you guys see what I see!

 

Have you givin your carbs a good scrubbing?

 

No I have not, she is down to the air horns right now, I could easily pull the carbs I have been getting mixed reviews as to whether this is necessary. Right now I am attempting to see if my fuel pump is shot or if it is possibly the relay. Worst comes to worse I will need to gravity feed her and I need to figure out the most efficient way to do so.

 

Don't pull the carbs. I'm a little over-whelmed by your comments. I'm having a hard
time with the cause and effect. Before you do anything else, let's go over what it's
doing wrong.

My understanding is your kill-switch has to be "reset" to get the bike to turn-over.
You also, mentioned that since that started, you haven't been able to get it to run.

You've tried shorting the fuel-pump relay to get the pump to cycle. But with mixed results.
You also have concerns about the fuel-filter being a possible choke-point
or,
if it is even installed correctly.

Am I getting your concerns correct? If so, I'm recommending that you put it all back
together (with a NEW fuel filter), charge the battery on a tender till it has a full
charge and then try to start it. Then, let me know what it does. It will be slow, but
then, I can try to give you detailed instructions on what steps to take to solve your
issue(s). There may be only one, or possibly, you have several that are playing off,
each other. The key is to be systematic and move step by step.

What manual are you working from? I have all of the one's available for the F3,
so I can page/paragraph reference them, if I know what you are using.

On the fuel-filter, their cheap, go ahead and get one and install it. There should be
an arrow marked/etched on it for direction of fuel-flow. Here's a schematic of the
tank/fuel system....

HONDA OF TULSA 1998 Honda Street Bike CBR600F3 Parts List

You'll note the 2 hoses at the bottom of the tank, one is a vent (the smaller) and
one is a fuel/water drain from the fill-opening. You DO NOT need these hooked up
when working on the bike (one hassle dealt with). The only hose needed is to the
pet-****/valve. Which should be turned counter-clock-wise (facing it) to the DOWN
position for main-draw, 1/4 turn (clock-wise) to shut-off (the **** should be horizontal)
and 1/4 turn (clock-wise, straight up) for reserve draw.

Hope this will help, Ern

 

this is a hard thread to follow.... what exactly is happening with your bike?

based on what i am reading i am with the mad hatter on this. put the bike back together with new fuel filter. pull out the spark plugs and crank the motor over a few times to clear the cylinders. hook up a gravity feed fuel to the carbs. clean up the spark plugs with some sand paper and lets see what happens

 

Well I have responses so this is good. Sorry for some of the vagueness, that is a mega post I put on another forum and figured it may help here but I realize it left out some of the small stuff so here it goes.

-Kill Switch Issue: No longer an issue, it did it one day and not the next.
-Fuel Filter: I have found I did have it on backwards apparently the piece with the metal ring is supposed to be going to the fuel pump, I had it pointed towards the petcock; I'm not sure if this would cause any issues because I left the filter and hoses as is after unhooking them from the fuel pump and turned the petcock 'ON' and 'RES' and it drained what seemed to be a good amount of gas.
-This was when I attempted to hook her back up as is and see what happened, when nothing happened I troubleshooted the Fuel Pump as described in the Owners manual chapter 18-15,16 (if I am not mistaken those are the two sections I manually posted here).

I have found something new though, and this is where I am currently (I believe Chapter 18-16 top of the page before it gets to the volume inspection):
"Disconnect the fuel pump 2P (Black) connector and check for battery voltage between the Black/Blue (+) and Green (-) terminals with the ignition switch ON.

If there is battery voltage, replace the fuel pump.
If there is no battery voltage, check for an open circuit or loose connection in the Black and Green wires."
-I have NO voltage on those terminals, I put the Red voltmeter cable on where the Black/Blue wire would plug in on this terminal and the Black voltmeter cable on where the Green wire would plug in and I turn on the key and I get nothing... I hook up the battery to a charging system, nothing- I test the battery for volts and do see volts so the meter does work.

In regards to other suggestions:
-My fuel filter looked very clean, any gas that came out was spotless and after pulling a bad fuel pump on my FI bike that had GUNK come out of it and still work I assume mine is in working condition (just backwards atm).
-Spark plugs look good, no oil or anything crazy- and I tested for spark and got shocked haha (I wasn't trying to but that plug wire does not have much play and when trying to hold onto it welp yeah...)
-I have not tried to gravity feed it yet, I was going to do this yesterday until I found out that my terminal 2P has no voltage- referring to the wiring diagram the Green wire goes to my rear blinkers (which work) and the Black/Blue goes to the connector that plugs into the relay (the one I attempted to short but I believe the test did not work due to the new issue I found with the Voltage).


Thank you guys! Hopefully these alleviate some of the concerns you were having, I believe I am on a more honed in path now.


EDIT: So I went back to double check this step: "If there is battery voltage, check for continuity in the Black/Blue wire.
Check for continuity, between the Black/Blue wire and ground."

-Originally, as stated, I thought I read 4 OHMs (that was with my Ohmmeter set to either x50 or x100). Well I went outside and put it on x1 after rechecking the voltage and the meter stayed in the infinity section- it did not move; then when I reconnected the fuel pump it read 3 Ohms- I assume this means no continuity? But why would I not be getting power to Terminal 2P?

 

I don't mean to insult, but I would like to assure that you are using your meter properly...


What type multi-meter are you using analog or digital? How are you checking for continuity?
Most digital will beep, if the continuity is good. On an analog it will read zero for
continuity and infinite for an open circuit. You should isolate from power, any circuit
run that you are checking for continuity. Hook the probes to the ends of the circuit/wire
you are checking. Doesn't matter which way the probes are used when checking for a
complete circuit (continuity).

Here's a handy reference, with links for other type checks performed with a multi-meter as well....

How to Check Continuity With an Ohmmeter | eHow.com

I hope this helps assure we are all using the correct procedures, so the results can be meaningful.

Ern