Just got back from a ride and noticed that one of my front discs was hotter than the other, have any of you guys ever noticed this? Is this normal?When I brake in a straight line it doesn't pull to one side. Is there any way of measuring how much each brake is working?

 

if you are not sure just check the brake pads for wear and bleed the brakes/replace the brake fluid.
P.S.Im not sure how you checked the temperature of the brake disks. Any time i touched them after a ride(usualyaccidentally while checking tire preassure)ended up burning my hands.

 

Yep they get hot, rear is usually the hottest, cos you got two up front doing less work. But they cool down pretty fast to. Brakes use friction to work & friction causes heat. The brakes work by hydrolic pressure (brake fluid). the pressure is even, (well to a gnats nut anyway) Variations can happen if you installed one set of pads or retaining clips incorrectly (got you worried now!) With new pads, they are not exactly the same, although the differences are slight, they usually take a little while to bed in properly. If you think your brakes are working fine (& remember they all get hot) then don't dwell on it. If your concerned, have em seen to.
But personally I think your ok. I installed a new rear set & did the "are they hot ritual" & left skin of my thumb & forefinger sizzling on the disc

 

I have not changed the pads since I have had the bike but am looking to do them over the next couple of weeks I think I will change the fluid and greese the pivot bolts aswell. Its suprising how quickly they cool down once you pull over after a couple of minutes I could hold the left one without burning my fingers but the right one was a bit hotter and could not hold it, the pad wear looks pretty much even so both brakes are working I think I am just being paranoid.

 

Yeah, thats wot everyones saying about you!!
When you do them, make sure that you keep an eye on how the antil rattle clips are placed before you remove them. they are pretty straight forward, but you can spend a while working it out. The bike manuals give you S.F.A in detail. Another thing to do is clean & hand buff the brake slider pins. They can get a bit corroded & can cause the brakes to bind from time to time. & be carefull not to overtighten the bleeder valves, I always go for new ones & their relatively cheap. Other than that its a straight forward jog. I prefer the organic replacement pads myself, but that depends on your riding syle www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle.html
My 1st choice

 

Thinking about it I don't think I will bother doing the brakes for a few months, the front brake works well enough to lock the front wheel under very hard braking, and I don't think it is binding coz I had up at over 150mph yesterday so I think I will leave it as it is until I next service it. Thanks for the advice though. One question (just me being paranoid) is it obvious when theCCT needs changing?

 

yep, its pretty obvious. You'll hear a rattle at lower RPM's. You'll know when the time comes to change it.
I just changed mine to a manual one, its much better then OEM. At least you know that everything is tight and doesnt rattle :-)

 

Cheers for that, I get a slight vibration at mid range for a very very short time but think its down to my end can, I am waiting till the bike gets to 16 000 miles and then I will tear into it and replace all the consumables, and do the valve clearances, I will no where I stand with the bike after that.