Yes timing.. Ever had a cam off a tooth? Give that a shot and let me know how well it runs out of time.

And ignition timing can still be an issue for many reasons, modern bikes a lot less but still absolutely belongs if you are making a list of "requirements" to get a motor to run.

What about the stator do you think is causing his problem?

 

the guy said it ran damn well before it sat, so I would "assume" the cam timing is fine. Stator may be a problem, but until i check all of the fuses, grounds and the plugs I wont know. Hoping to get some stuff done on it this weekend.

 

My comment on timing was more a general statement than a suggestion for your issue.

Stator I don't think is your issue. I run my racebike with the stator removed completely, along with the rest of the charging system, as long as the battery is charged and your pulse generator is firing i don't see where the stator would cause a bike to turn over and not fire.

Your issue to me sounds like a wiring issue causing no juice to the coils.

 

Maybe it's the boat mechanic in me, I thought the timing of the coils was run off of the stator... I agree that having the cam off a tooth would be horrific, although spark wouldn't be my biggest concern, bent valve's can really mess up one's day.

Just a recommendation: instead of trying to spark the plug to the motor, most auto parts stores have a little extension you can put between the plug and the plug wire. it has a little light that when it sends power, it lights up. Rectifier/regulators and ecu's can get burnt up that way. Once again coming from a boat mechanic with a few bikes.
Let us know how it goes and what you run into.

 

Those plug light deals are nice. Lepy i guessing you have had the pleasant experience of finding out you have spark by feeling it run through your fingers?? haha, few shocks like that will send a man looking for a better way to test for spark.. Like the lights.

 

well heresa little update. Thanks 6 fingered man, I checked the 2 green grounds and they werent even connected. I bolted them to the sub frame and the bike at least popped off. The fuel pump is running while turning over, is that correct? or shoudld it run when the key is on? I cranked on it a little and it back fired once and then back fired through the #1 carb once. The #1 carb is leaking fuel out of the over flow, so i guess i gotta take the carbs back off and check the float. But it istrying to start. The plugs probably are fouled.

 

Clean the carbs, I bet your slows are clogged and you have to check the float heights and valves anyways.

On a hawk the fuel pump pulses with ignition so the pump only pumps when the bike is cranking or running. F3 might be that same.

I bypass this, If you run out of fuel you can kill the battery cranking the bike for long enough to fill the bowls. Wire the pump to acc on and it will pump as soon as you flip the switch, fill the bowls and then you can fire the bike. Not an issue if you run standard batterys i think, i use yusa 7's and dont have any power to spare.

Again not sure if this applies but sounds like the case.

 

yeah thats the same battery i have now. its only a year old. I cleaned the carbs once already, but maybe i need to check them over again.. I will look into bypassing the fuel pump to acc on.

 

Its really easy to miss a clogged slow jet. Use a single strand of copper wire and push it through the jet, hold it up to the light and make sure you can see through it, then use the tube that come with your cab cleaner and spray through the jet you should be able to get a good stream out the other end. . Do the same for all four. Bet she fires.

That's great you found the no spark issue!!!

 

ZAPPP!! yes, I'm sure bike coils put out the same 50-90k volts that boat motors do. If you want to mess up someone's day, Attach the wires to a metal chair (pos & ground) and kick the motor over when they set down.

6 fingered man, you sound like you found spark checkers in a similar way.