Fromwatching your video and listening to it, I am beginning to suspect the direct air intake (DAI) because it's at speeds higher than 12 mph when the problem occurs. Not to say that bad carb insulators could be contributing to the problem but your DAI might be the problem. From listening to the video, it seems like the bike runs out of fuel. The ram air is forcing additional air into the air fuel mixture and creating different pressure from ambient air. The DAI dumps air directlyinto the carb float bowls because they need the same pressure as what is in the air box.A change in pressure due to restricted air flow or introduced ambient pressure in the DAI will cause the bowls to drain and not replenish with normal usuage when above 12 mph.Try this, ride it under 12 mph and see what happens (don't worry about the rpm, the speed is what you want to watch). Then start ridingthe bike above 12 mph and see what happens.
If you look on top of the air box there is a diagram that shows the hose routing for the DAI. There could be a severalthings going on, you don't have the air intakes located right under the head light connected properly, your air vent silenoid isn't working properly(located just behind and low of the air box),or the air filtersfor the DIA areplugged.
I would go through all thecomponents of the DAI. The air intake just under the triple clamps is the DAI duct has some hoses offof it. The hose off theleft side of the DAI duct (facing forward with bike) which connects into the air silenoid. This hose is for when the bike is moving above 12 mph. The another one that connects into the air silenoidwhich isfor when the bike travels under 12 mph. This hose comes from the air intakes just under the headlight. Your air silenoid could not be switching over properly which is causing the bike to die when at high speed. To check the air silenoid (this is for 49 state model):
[blockquote]
1. Disconnect all air hoses from the air silenoid.
2. Connect a hand pump air pump to tube fitting 4 (DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR, WILL DAMAGE AIR SILENOID).
3.With ignition switch off, pump air through tube fitting 6 (the side with single fitting is 6 which is the output).
4. connect the air pump to tube fitting 7. Turn the ignition switchto onand pump air through the tube fitting 6.[/blockquote]
Post the results of this test. If the air silenoid passes, there are still more tests that can be done on the DAI but they require you to tear into the bike a little more. I would also check the filters in the lines. There aretwofilter and they are easy to inspect for blockage. check all the hoses for blockages and damage (cracks) also. Good luck!!

 

regulator?

 

Marc0011
I took the bike apart some more and now see what you are talking about.
For the hoses beneath the headlight are you talking about these that sort of go off to the side?
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3017.jpg

Then it all runs into this stuff...
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3016.jpg
My buddy and I took the hose off of the rectangular box looking thing and it didn't appear to be clogged.

And I also did do a I guess redneck clog test and plugged 1 side of the airintake i the front and blew on the other side. I could hear fuel coming out at the carbs. I didn't do the air selinoid becuase I wasn't sure what that was. I assume it's the metal peice that has the two wires. Which we followed the wires and they ran into the main tubing that holds all the wires so that appears to be intact. But I didn't do your test so I might try tommorow.

Also when looking into the intake I noticed that the choke part wouldn't go back when I put the choke on. Does it work off of a vacum? because I have the choke hooked up and when the bike runs I feel like the choke works. But I'm fairly new to carbs or bike mechanicing.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3013.jpg

And one more thing. I noticed this when I had the seat off. And I felt it looked like crap. could whatever this stuff is have anything to do with my problem...
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3019.jpg

 

If it's regulator, I would think that there would beissues withcharging pr0jktmayhem. I'm thinking this a DAI system issue becausehe can free rev the bike without any issues. The problem comes about whenhe is going down the road.
Asmittie84,
Those are the hoses that I was talking about (CBR600F3017.jpg). It sounds like there aren't any blockages in the hoses since you can blow through them. There could still be an issue with the air solenoid. I've edited your picture you posted of CBR600F316.jpg (PMed it to ya) to explain the inputs to for the air solenoid test. Do the speed testfirst because this system works with the speed of the bike when it changes over. Tube 4 is the 12 + mph and tube 7 is when the bike is > 12 MPH. How is the speedo of the bike working?
The part you pictured (CBR600F3013.jpg) is not part of the choke.Those black sliders are part of a cartridge which pulls the needle up when you hit the throttle (work on vacuum like you suspected). If you pull off one of the black tops of the carbs, you'll see what I am talking about. There is a rubber garment though at the top of this cartridge which needs to be in good order (no cracks).
I'm having a tough time making out what is going on in your box under the seat. It looks like a previous owner spiced into the harness to power something. What does that splicego to? The connectors in the box originally should be the side stand switch (3 Pin (P) connector), alternator plug (3 P white connector), ignition pulse generator (2 P red connector), and the last one is the brake light switch connector (2 P). Hope this helps some. I have to get going and type out a 12 page paper tonight (procrastination hurts!), I'll check back again tomorrow to see if what you've posted. Good luck!!

 

by reading through your post i saw you are running 93 octane, but it says to run 87 right in the owners manual, dunno why you are putting 93 in it! i'd start with making sure everything is clean. clean your carbs, clean your battery terminals, throw a new battery in. then get a multimeter and an owners manual and start figuring out the electrical problem.

that is step 1 for any used bike that you get. it will solve lots of probs right there.

if the prob still exists, now proceed with diagnostics now that the easy stuff is out of the way.

 

Thanks marco. I'm busy with work now but by some miracle I have Thursday through Sunday off. My rubber boots should be in too so I'll put those on the carb and go through the carbs some. I have a manual for my bike. Which I'll be sanding all of my fairings this week too so I'll have the front fairings and headlight fairings off the bike as i prep it for paint. Will that make a difference if I run around 45mph or not enough?

Ptownski. Normally manuals say run ATLEAST 87 octane. That's on most car manuals. The few cars that recommend 93 octane are usually your supersport cars such as Vipers, Ferraris, Vettes, etc. And I've always heard that running 93 on these motors is the best. Some bikes they say 87 is better but I think that's on your EFI bikes. I know the SV650s run better without after market Air Filters. So I guess bikes can be weird. I'll have to look into that.

I'll probably replace the battery too. But I'm not in a hurry right now. Which I'm thinking I might just hold off on finishing the bike and go ahead and get a Full Vance&Hines exhaust (SS headers and Ca ) for $500. And then get the carbs jetted and an aftermarket air filter. Then do it all at once and get it Dyno Tuned. Which I'll go through more of the bike.

Also my buddy and I checked through the bike since we had it stripped down butt naked and everything appeared to be intact.

 

Having the front fairings won't make a difference. If it does, I can't imagine what might be causing it. Hopefully just putting in the rubber boots will solve the problem. While on the subject of air leaks, there are o-rings between the base of the air box and the carbs. Maybe those are bad as well? If it doesn't solve the problem, see what happens when the bike is under 12 mph and then see what happens when above 12 mph. In the Honda manual, there is a diagnostic where they say to remove the drive sprocket peform a series of checks. If you don't have anything in your manual about this, I'll copy it and PM it to ya if you want.

 

Houston. I think I found my problem.

I got the carbs off today and even though the boots felt fairly stiff and hard. They didn't appear to be cracked. But taking off the plastic airbox and looking at my exploded diagram of the carbs I noticed the O-rings missing. That has got to be my problem. Here are some pictures...
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3121.jpg
And nothing below the box...
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3122.jpg
And I couldn't find anything that looked like number 42...
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...BR600F3127.jpg

 

That has got to be your problem!!! Hey, I think I some spares. I'll ship them to ya if you want.

 

87 octane is fine.Anything higher,you are throwing money away.