ok so i am having a simular issue only my bike startted and ran fine to walmart i got off turned it off went in for five minutes came out and wouldnt start, acted like battery was dead...so i push started it just fine rode to girls house came back out a lil bit later and it wouldnt even try to turn over so i tried to push start it....nothing...so....i went and bought a new battery..trickle charged it for most the day..started and ran fine..drove to work 45 min drive and back home and died as soon as it got under 1k rpm...used a non running car to give it juice to start and it stayed running as long as the rpm is above 3k....anything under and itll die...also when running at semi high rpm itll start cutting out. its like the battery isnt charging and the stator isnt keeping it running...what could be the problem? didnt start till i ran it up to 145 on open road one day then next day...nothing but problems....youd think if it wasnt charging at all the battery woulda died alot sooner than a 45 min one way and back. with my cooling fans running non stop...any ideas before i go buy a new stator? thanks...btw the battery tester charging machine at auto zone came up with (alot of ripples) and said bad diode....? and does the regulator supposed to get so hot you can barelly touch it?

 

you can check the r/r using a special volt meter (in your manual it lables it)
you should also check continuity in your wires to make sure your stator is ok.

is your battery dead? or overcharged?

 

deader than a doornail....fans wo0nt even turn and the headlight is just a candle glow lol

 

To properly test the charging system, you'll need to recharge the battery to 13 or so volts. Once you've done this, take a voltage reading with the bike running and at 4k to 5k rpm. It should read 13 to 15 volts, but my guess is you're going to find it's battery voltage. Check the connections at the RR and the stator. These have a tendency to melt and cause excessive resistance which cause compenents to fail. If they are burned up, replace and retest.
If you measured 13 or less volts, check the continuity between the ground wire (green) and the ground right next to the RR. You should get a tone which is a good thing. Check the red/white wire, you should not get a tone. Check the continuity between the three yellow wires and the ground, you should not get a tone.
Warm the bike up to operating temp, and test the resistance of the stator between leads. Think of the 3 phases as A, B, and C. Test AB and AC, you should have a reading of .1 - 1.0 ohms. If this checks out, download this fault finding guide and the diode testing guide.
These are excellent walk throughs on finding your issue. Word of advice, an RR can test good at room temp, but will fail once under operating temps. If you have an RR you suspect to be bad, perform a test at room temp and another at operating temps. You'll need gloves to test the RR when at operating temps.


http://electrosport.com/technical-re...agnosis-center

 

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