CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

98 F3 fork adjust? Brake's to the left?

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Old 08-02-2011, 10:18 AM
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Default EDIT:98 F3 Triple Tree "Swivel peg" Loose?

Ok so, I got in a wreck and a lady bent my front forks. Got a used replacement set along with the triple tree. It feels very loose when taking corners and feels really soft up front. Idk what the shocks are set at as far as soft/hard goes or what spring it has but my old forks had a 1k spring. Is that the big difference I'm feeling?

Also now when I front brake it veers to the right...could that be that the shocks aren't set equally? Or something withmy brakes?


^^SOLVED^^
vv NEW PROBLEM vv

So now i'm noticing that right at the upper berings in the Top Triple Tree is wiggleing when under heavy braking and over bumpy roads...could this be the cause of the wreck? cause i dont see how that would b normal...
 

Last edited by Mulkxican88; 08-05-2011 at 01:46 PM. Reason: Topic Change
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:04 AM
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Update: ok I found that I can adjust the forks on the top side of the individual forks but ima having to play with it cause I don't have any markings. Just know clockwise is hard and counterclockwise. Is soft.

Haven't riden it yet so idk if that will help or fix anything.
 
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:14 AM
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When you got the new forks were they rebuilt? Or just put on the bike?
 
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:29 PM
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Well I just put them on the bike. And do plan to rebuild them and replace the spring in them cause I had a 1k spring in my old forks.

BUT....

1) found out I didn't check tire pressure and it was REALLY low causing the wable.

2) I have a new problem that when going over bumps and hard braking the swivel point for the Handel bars going from lower to top triple tree's is slightly moving forward and the back. I'm talking like milimeaters but it's still movement. Could I have bent that pin in my wreck? Or is a is Little play normal?
 
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:45 PM
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Do I have to torque the stem nut without any pressure on the forks?
 
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:24 PM
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No, play in the head bearings is not right. Probably why it's pulling to the side under braking.

Did you put new bearings in with the new bridges? Is it possible the front end hit elongated the headstock where the race sits?

Lifting it from under the stem should be OK. I wouldn't have it sitting on the wheel or be lifting on the bottom of the forks though.
 
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mulkxican88
Do I have to torque the stem nut without any pressure on the forks?
yes. with the front end off... tighten the lower bridge nut to an initial torque of 18ft lbs. fully rotate the lower bridge from left to right at least 5 times. then re-torque to 22 ft lbs. Then install a new lock washer and tighten lock nut finger tight to align grooves. put on the top bridge and temp install the forks.. tighten top bridge to 76 ft lbs...
 
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:34 AM
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Smokinjeff

I did not replace the bearings or anything. I hadn't taken the forks off before and the forks were not sliding out properly so we removed just the stem bolt to remove the top triple brace and that allowed enough play for the forks I guess cause they slid right out after that. It is possible that happened cause I was struck from the front head on and F'd my forks pretty bad. I wish I could tell if it was from me removing the nut and it not being re-tightened properly or if it needs bearings. (most likely need bearings)

Will.bass

Since I only removed the stem nut so I need to replace the lock washer at all? Or only if that is removed?
 
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:47 PM
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You should be able to reuse the washer if the tabs haven't been bent back and forth too much.

You'll know if the bearings are bad after you get it properly tightened up.
 
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mulkxican88
Smokinjeff

I did not replace the bearings or anything. I hadn't taken the forks off before and the forks were not sliding out properly so we removed just the stem bolt to remove the top triple brace and that allowed enough play for the forks I guess cause they slid right out after that. It is possible that happened cause I was struck from the front head on and F'd my forks pretty bad. I wish I could tell if it was from me removing the nut and it not being re-tightened properly or if it needs bearings. (most likely need bearings)

Will.bass

Since I only removed the stem nut so I need to replace the lock washer at all? Or only if that is removed?
after a front end bump or dropping a bike, the bridges can be tweaked just enough to where they are the slightest bit out of alignment. which could explain the issue you explained about trying to get the forks out. it is on major hits that that tweak turns into bending the fork tubes. i bought my bike after a major front end accident. i had to replace all of the front stuff (upper fork tubes, fairing stay, front fairing and stem bearings.) the stem bearing where unnoticeable until the front end was lifted and striped to the bridges. it was there i learned that the bearing races where greatly divot-ed and needed replaced. cheap fix if your doing it yourself, just a lot of work to get the front off..

why guess when bearings are cheap you only have to go a couple of steps further to replace them. id go ahead and do it, besides, the stem bearings that came in these f3's are obsolete now, you would be improving your front end by replacing them with current bearings.. (taper cone vs. the crappy ones)

Link for the ones i used

and this is what my old bearing races looked like..
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Last edited by Will.Bass; 08-07-2011 at 11:27 AM.


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