CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

97 CBR600F3 - long/many cranks to start

Old May 24, 2023 | 01:02 PM
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Default 97 CBR600F3 - long/many cranks to start

Hi guys, I have a 97 CBR600F3, had it a couple of yrs (in my collection) and sadly have never ridden it.

I fire it up every few months, but it takes alot of long cranking to get it to fire up. once it does it runs , revs and idles fine. When I bought it the guy said if you take it for a ride it may leave you stranded (at least he was honest about that). it really seems like its taking for ever to get fuel.

I did have a load bowl fuel leak so I cleaned the carbs (ultrasonic), & full rebuild with lite tech gaskets etc, and the starting issue persists, so I don't believe it to be a carb issue.

Im wondering if my fuel pump is FUBAR. Whats the best way to test it ? I believe it only turns on when cranking or running, so do I just put a hand on it so see if I feel it or best to disconnect a fuel line and see what comes out?

Is it usually just the points kit in the end of them that goes bad ?

cheers


 

Last edited by Straycat; May 24, 2023 at 01:07 PM.
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:41 PM
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workshop manual tells you exactly how to test the fuel pump ;-) I think @dannoxyz might have a picture?
 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:49 PM
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found it -
 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:52 PM
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:56 PM
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There is a .pdf version of the manual in the sticky section here. Section 18-16 details fuel pump troubleshooting. The area that talks about shorting the blue/blue black wires together is an easy way to see if he pump is doing anything at all.

On the f3 the pump only works while the bike is running. Don't expect to hear anything clicking by simply turning the button to the "on" position. If you short those wires together and turn the button to the on position, then you should hear the pump working.
 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:57 PM
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Cheers, guys, very useful, as I don't have the Factory Shop Manual, ill go to the sticky to find it
 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
There is a .pdf version of the manual in the sticky section here. Section 18-16 details fuel pump troubleshooting. The area that talks about shorting the blue/blue black wires together is an easy way to see if he pump is doing anything at all.

On the f3 the pump only works while the bike is running. Don't expect to hear anything clicking by simply turning the button to the "on" position. If you short those wires together and turn the button to the on position, then you should hear the pump working.

thank you
 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 02:01 PM
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this might work if the sticky does not - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZbB...ew?usp=sharing
 
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Old May 25, 2023 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
On the f3 the pump only works while the bike is running. Don't expect to hear anything clicking by simply turning the button to the "on" position. If you short those wires together and turn the button to the on position, then you should hear the pump working.
What some people do is install manual switch to power pump for couple seconds before cranking. To prefill carb bowls. Not sure how much help in this case since we're not really sure that's issue.
 
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Old May 25, 2023 | 09:45 AM
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Ok, so I just started the testing and it failed on step 2 (Relay failure - assumption)

Step 1 was to test for voltage between the black wire (on the connector) and ground w/ ignition on. (its actually a black and white wire) - OK got voltage there
Step 2 was check for continuity between Black/Blue wire on the removed connector and ground - I have over 2 ohms continuity - manual says "replace the relay" if I have continuity
Step 3 is to short the black/black blue on the connector (Only if there is no continuity). *** Not done this step**
Step 4 is testing the fuel pump Blue/Black to green) ****Not done this step*** this step makes no sense either, it implies a problem whether there is voltage (replace the pump) or if there is no voltage check for broken wires/open circuit)

So...my questions are

1) how does that step 2 failure affect/imply the relay being bad ?, the relay isn't even in the circuit being tested at this point the connector is removed off the relay at the outset of the testing !
2) does that mean I cannot jump the Black to Black/Blue wires (step 3) to test the pump because the manual says only to do that if there is no continuity ?
3) does that mean also that I shouldn't test the fuel pump wires (Black/Blue to green Step 4)?

Manual isn't very clear on these things, if your an electrical neophyte like me. I don't want to fry anything by testing the wrong stuff.

The explanation that my neophyte electrical brain comes up with is:

The black/ blue wire on the fuel cut connector feeds power to the pump if/when the relay works. Pump green wire is ground, so if I get continuity on the step 2 test it means a circuit is being completed between the power supply line (blue/black) and ground (green) via the fuel pump.

The manuals "assumption" is that this means a bad relay seems odd to me, because the pump isn't even being tested if you follow the manuals steps, it merely assumes its the relay and you stop testing. makes no sense does it ?.

The manual is quite poor don't you think?, it refers you to page 18-5 to jump a wire but its actually 18-16, it refers to the removal of the right side panel for the fuel flow test but the picture shows the pump behind the left side panel. These are things that make me ask the questions before I proceed.

So, what say you guys that know more than me about this ?

Im inclined to keep testing steps 3 and 4 along with the flow test, but want to be sure I dont "F" anything up.
 

Last edited by Straycat; May 25, 2023 at 11:05 AM.
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