jayman4312, i would tell him to lower the price to 2000-2200 since the paint is bad and not original. paint jobs would cost 1000. that's a decent one. plus, tell him that the sound really bothers you. if it's only $60 for the part and he can fix it, why does he not do it? it just does not make any sense.

but, if you are happy with it, i think 2500 would be the highest i would pay.

go back and check out the bike once again. dont act like youre interested and look a little bit more suspicious. dont buy it yet when you go back. tell him like you're looking at another bike that same day. maybe he'll bulge.

lol...at least that's what i did with my other bikes. if he seems desperate enough he'll lower the price.

 

ive been looking around craigslist and i must be missing what you are seeing. Im pretty sure im going to do it just because its close, its mechanically sound, has a new clutch, oil change, and coolant, new tires and chain, and its from a bike mechanic shop. Ill agree the bike should probably sell for closer to 2200, but i kind of just want something now thats reliable and stylish that'll last a few seasons. Maybe ill see if he'll go down to 2600 or 2500, we'll see. i think if i get it down to 2600 and he throws in the cam chain tensioner im going to do it, and he never mentioned to me once about anyone else looking at the bike so i might be able to use that to my advantage too. Either way ill probably end up selling it for a newer 600rr after i graduate college next summer, and just sell it for a grand or something. I figure its like a 1500 rental for a season or 2, lol.

 

of course, I was looking back when *I* was buying a bike, and in Chicago. This was in January, not like, yesterday.

 

Man... I think I've paid the most outa all you guys. I paid $7000 for mine, although it was in 1998 and I bought it with 1 mile. Moving on, I am feeling that seller is asking a little too much. But that is probably because it is a shop and not an individual. Sounds like the shop is trying to cut a little profit on the bike. Bet ya the shop picked the bike up not running and got the thing running to sell.
If you did buy the bike from the shop, there is a piece of mind of the servicing that has been done. The only thing is, I wouldn't buy the bike UNTIL after the shop has installed a new tensioner and you've heard the bike run. There could be something else going bad and you definitely don't want to buy a bike and need to replace a rod bearing(s) a month or so down the road. There was a thread in here where a guy's bike was making noise and it ended up being rod bearings, so it can happen (it is rare though). So if you get the bike, only exchange the cash after he has installed it and you have heard the thing run.

 

$3000 is too high for any F3 outside of mint condition.

This bike sounds reasonable at $2000.

 

just offer him 2000 straight up and see what he says.

 

just talked to him, the lowest he seems to go with out getting in a full blown arguement is $2700, anf hes going to put the billit cam chain tensioner on it for free before i buy it to make sure thats the problem, and just to throw it in. If that fix's the little noise, i know i could get something similar for a few hundred less, but like i said i like the peace of mind of it coming from a well respected mechanic/shop, and feel that mixed with the ease of it being close and ready is worth a few hundred $. any thing else you think i should look for before i do buy it if the new tensioner fixes the noise?

 

price seems real high expecially with the little bit of "love" that its gunna need to be running good. Id save my money and find a nicer one for cheaper....

 

Okay, here's my thoughts...

It sounds like you're pretty set on this bike. F3's are super sharp bikes and it's easy to fall hard for them. Wanting a bike RIGHT NOW is the #1 reason people end up getting screwed on a deal. Yes, it's for fun but it's still a vehicle and should be considered a major purchase. Nothing could be worse than splashing down your hard earned green (especially if you're still in college) and then feeling like you got the proverbial shaft if things go south.

That being said, here's my advice. The bike is probably reasonable at $2500 if the CCT is in in working order. (This makes me kind of nervous that the bike is at a shop and they don't automatically fix the most common problem with particular model. Even if it's a $60 part, it's always easier to sell a bike that is in strong running order.) If the seller won't go lower than $2700 then it's time to walk. Another option is to ask for a WRITTEN warranty of some sort. If they are a shop they should make no bones about giving a labor warranty for something like 250 miles. I have a buddy that worked out a deal on a bike by getting a warranty that covered labor on any MECHANICAL repair in excess of $400. This protected him from anything wrong that may have been hidden but also protected the seller (also a repair shop) from him nitpicking over small things. Sorry for the rant. Good Luck and ride safe.

 

Well he is going to fix the cct for free, and he said if i find anything wrong with it that i didnt cause within a week or 2 he would fix it for free or refund me, so i think im going to end up buying it for 2700 with those 2 things included and everything else seems to be great. it has a new clutch, oil, coolant, and tires. probably still about 200 more than i should pay, im just not seeing anything else that price in good running condition right now. ill let you know how it goes after i go there again today, probably pick it up during the week after the cct comes in and he puts it on.