1996CBR rear fork & bearing housing, problem or not?
#1
1996CBR rear fork & bearing housing, problem or not?
Heya everyone!
I'm a new guy here and pretty much lost in English when it comes to techical terms and sayings, but I'm still in need of help, so please bear with me nontheless.
So yeah, I bought a 1996 CBR last year and happily rode it through whole Summer, but I constantly had the feeling of "something not being right" in the rear of the bike, especially when leaning while turning. I didn't have the time or possibility to check it back then, but now I wanted to do it before the season starts here(yes, still occasionally snowing in Finland) and found out a couple of things that worry me a little.
First of all, I can see from the left side of the rear fork that the bike has been tipped in the past, the left foot rest has hit the fork rather hard. That's why I'm worrying about the shape of the fork, could someone more experienced than me tell, whether or not the fork is fine or not? To me the left and the right side look clearly differently angled, though this could be on purpose..
Secondly, I found out that the rear wheel's right side bearing is completely done for, it won't turn at all, here's hoping this caused the uneasy feeling. But, when I removed this bearing, the view beneath it kinda creeped me out and made me wonder if the last owner had done some weird modifications. I'm talking about the shape of the hole behind the bearing, could someone tell me if this is just because of the casting or something else?
Thanks a bunch for anyone ready to waste their time with me! =)
I'm a new guy here and pretty much lost in English when it comes to techical terms and sayings, but I'm still in need of help, so please bear with me nontheless.
So yeah, I bought a 1996 CBR last year and happily rode it through whole Summer, but I constantly had the feeling of "something not being right" in the rear of the bike, especially when leaning while turning. I didn't have the time or possibility to check it back then, but now I wanted to do it before the season starts here(yes, still occasionally snowing in Finland) and found out a couple of things that worry me a little.
First of all, I can see from the left side of the rear fork that the bike has been tipped in the past, the left foot rest has hit the fork rather hard. That's why I'm worrying about the shape of the fork, could someone more experienced than me tell, whether or not the fork is fine or not? To me the left and the right side look clearly differently angled, though this could be on purpose..
Secondly, I found out that the rear wheel's right side bearing is completely done for, it won't turn at all, here's hoping this caused the uneasy feeling. But, when I removed this bearing, the view beneath it kinda creeped me out and made me wonder if the last owner had done some weird modifications. I'm talking about the shape of the hole behind the bearing, could someone tell me if this is just because of the casting or something else?
Thanks a bunch for anyone ready to waste their time with me! =)
Last edited by IDoDirt; 03-25-2012 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Fixed images
#2
You are right to have concerns, you have some pretty bad damage.
It looks to me like the swing-arm (rear fork) looks fine. It has to go a bit wide and then
turn parallel, in order to allow clearance for the chain. There should be an extra spacer,
on that side of the axle, to allow for it. I would replace the bearings though and not depend on the old ones.
The rear-wheel, though, is trashed. I don't see any way to save or repair that kind of
damage. There should be a straight, round hole for the axle and bearings to fit in.
It looks to me like the bearing siezed, shattered and then the axle has been grinding
into the side, reaming three different wear points, as weight/force shifted.
I would also closely inspect the rear-caliper/disk and mounts for collaterial damage.
To be through, I would replace the axle, due to concerns of heat damage and wear.
Also, check the rear sub-frame, etc for wear marks and/or damage.
The damage is extensive enough, I would strongly recommend getting a local,
qualified mechanic, to help you decide the best way to deal with the issues.
We can't do a proper and through exam/inspection, via the internet, to offer safe,
competent advice, regarding such extensive damage.
Good luck, Ern
It looks to me like the swing-arm (rear fork) looks fine. It has to go a bit wide and then
turn parallel, in order to allow clearance for the chain. There should be an extra spacer,
on that side of the axle, to allow for it. I would replace the bearings though and not depend on the old ones.
The rear-wheel, though, is trashed. I don't see any way to save or repair that kind of
damage. There should be a straight, round hole for the axle and bearings to fit in.
It looks to me like the bearing siezed, shattered and then the axle has been grinding
into the side, reaming three different wear points, as weight/force shifted.
I would also closely inspect the rear-caliper/disk and mounts for collaterial damage.
To be through, I would replace the axle, due to concerns of heat damage and wear.
Also, check the rear sub-frame, etc for wear marks and/or damage.
The damage is extensive enough, I would strongly recommend getting a local,
qualified mechanic, to help you decide the best way to deal with the issues.
We can't do a proper and through exam/inspection, via the internet, to offer safe,
competent advice, regarding such extensive damage.
Good luck, Ern
#3
K, so the swing-arm(thanks for the term) is fine, a relief on it's own...
About the damage in the wheel, the weird thing is: the axle hasn't got any kind of damage, nothing at all. Also the bearing, though not working, wasn't in pieces of anything, it was fully in shape.
Technically, if the bearing is replaced, shouldn't it work pretty much normally even with the oddly shaped hole behind it? The old bearing was fit tightly in it's place and really didn't look out of the ordinary until I took it apart to see it's rusty 'cause of the leaking seal.
This I'm still saying only because I'm a university student with a bank account of absolutely no use So replacing the wheel, _only_ if I really, really, have to..
Thank you for the advise so far!
Here's a straight link for my photobucket gallery, I seem to have failed the pics in the previous post.
About the damage in the wheel, the weird thing is: the axle hasn't got any kind of damage, nothing at all. Also the bearing, though not working, wasn't in pieces of anything, it was fully in shape.
Technically, if the bearing is replaced, shouldn't it work pretty much normally even with the oddly shaped hole behind it? The old bearing was fit tightly in it's place and really didn't look out of the ordinary until I took it apart to see it's rusty 'cause of the leaking seal.
This I'm still saying only because I'm a university student with a bank account of absolutely no use So replacing the wheel, _only_ if I really, really, have to..
Thank you for the advise so far!
Here's a straight link for my photobucket gallery, I seem to have failed the pics in the previous post.
Last edited by IDoDirt; 03-25-2012 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Fixed image
#4
Technically, yes, if there is enough shoulder to support the bearing, it should work.
The bearing did work loose the first time, so in my opinion, it WILL do so again.
I understand cutting costs, that's why I'm a decent mechanic. I've never been able
to afford to pay someone else to work on my bikes. Your bike will not be safe to ride
without replacing that rim, in my opinion. It will fail and you risk serious and/or life-
threatening injury, if you choose to disregard my advice.
Please choose to be safe and either correctly repair the bike, or do not ride it till
you can afford to do so.
Ern
The bearing did work loose the first time, so in my opinion, it WILL do so again.
I understand cutting costs, that's why I'm a decent mechanic. I've never been able
to afford to pay someone else to work on my bikes. Your bike will not be safe to ride
without replacing that rim, in my opinion. It will fail and you risk serious and/or life-
threatening injury, if you choose to disregard my advice.
Please choose to be safe and either correctly repair the bike, or do not ride it till
you can afford to do so.
Ern
#5
Ok, I'll start looking for a replacement as soon as possible... Cannot afford for a new one though, and that's why one last question:
What brands and models could possibly have a rim that would be an easy replacement? Meaning I could fit the old gear and disc, possibly even the tire, on to it..
Especially; what other Hondas(meaning different models and years) have the exact same rim?
Thanks a lot for your advice.
What brands and models could possibly have a rim that would be an easy replacement? Meaning I could fit the old gear and disc, possibly even the tire, on to it..
Especially; what other Hondas(meaning different models and years) have the exact same rim?
Thanks a lot for your advice.
#6
The 95-98 should be a direct bolt on. Hopefully, one of the other folks may know of
more make/models that will be a direct replacement.
One advantage, the bearings will probably be included with the rim, so that will save
you that expense. In fact it, with patience, you may get a rim for near the same cost.
E-bay is going to be your best friend here. Check the local wrecker yards, as well.
Good luck, Ern
more make/models that will be a direct replacement.
One advantage, the bearings will probably be included with the rim, so that will save
you that expense. In fact it, with patience, you may get a rim for near the same cost.
E-bay is going to be your best friend here. Check the local wrecker yards, as well.
Good luck, Ern
#7
The 1991-1994 F2 or 1995-1996 F3 wheels are direct replacements. I believe in Europe, the Honda 600's are all referred to as F's with a letter at the end. So, 1991-1996 CBR 600F(something) will work.
To find compatible parts/years/models, go here Ron Ayers and find your year/model. Find the part you're looking for, and then put that part number into the "Where Used" box on the left side of the screen. That will show you a list of years and models that use the same part. Use caution though because sometimes the parts manuals apply to multiple years, but the part will only apply to some of the years.
Oh, and by the way, your English is better than some of the folks on here where it's their native language.
To find compatible parts/years/models, go here Ron Ayers and find your year/model. Find the part you're looking for, and then put that part number into the "Where Used" box on the left side of the screen. That will show you a list of years and models that use the same part. Use caution though because sometimes the parts manuals apply to multiple years, but the part will only apply to some of the years.
Oh, and by the way, your English is better than some of the folks on here where it's their native language.
Last edited by IDoDirt; 03-25-2012 at 03:00 PM.
#8
Creating Ebay+PayPal accounts while writing, got to get the rear-wheel to get the season started.. Found a couple possible ones already
Thanks a lot for help! =) I'll be back whining about some problems when I start modding the upper rear of my bike... thinking about updating the looks into this millennia.
Thanks a lot for help! =) I'll be back whining about some problems when I start modding the upper rear of my bike... thinking about updating the looks into this millennia.
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