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CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

Throttle bogging

  #1  
Old 02-18-2013, 02:28 PM
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Default Throttle bogging

Hey guys,

I recently purchased my f2, and I have been doing some light maintenance work like cleaning the carbs and changing the fluids. Anyways it runs pretty good except when I want to get on the throttle rapidly the engine seems to bog. Could it be because it isn't getting enough air?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 02-20-2013, 03:44 PM
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Hard to tell. My bike did that for a while and I found out the rectifier was fried (but still working enough to ride) and the carbs were clogged. Could also be a kink in a fuel line? Doesn't sound like the air filter unless it's been massively neglected.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by outsider View Post
Hard to tell. My bike did that for a while and I found out the rectifier was fried (but still working enough to ride) and the carbs were clogged. Could also be a kink in a fuel line? Doesn't sound like the air filter unless it's been massively neglected.
The fuel line is fine. It will rev up after it boggs down for a second. I have been looking around and I think I need to adjust air to fuel ratio on the carbs.
 
  #4  
Old 02-21-2013, 01:04 PM
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In lower gears, at what RPM and throttle percentage is the bogging occurring?
 
  #5  
Old 02-22-2013, 06:50 AM
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It seems to be only coming off idle is when it happens. In first gear when starting from a full stop. I did notice though that the wires going to the rectifier weren't in great shape.
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by f2_fighter View Post
It seems to be only coming off idle is when it happens. In first gear when starting from a full stop. I did notice though that the wires going to the rectifier weren't in great shape.
You should definitely make sure your R/R connector wires are in good shape, but I think that's a separate issue to what you're describing, and it sounds like your pilot circuit may be too rich or too lean. If you get popping and crackling in your exhaust, when you're off throttle in deceleration, "winding down" the gears, that would help to diagnose it as more than likely lean.

Questions:

Does it pop on decel, as described above?

When you cleaned the carbs, did you remove the fuel screws and properly clean those passages, and the screws?
(Since it takes a special tool, due to the D-shaped screw head, most people look at that as some spooky $#!t they're not supposed to touch, and ignore it! You can get the tool pretty cheap, or you could slot the heads carefully with a Dremel and a thin cutting wheel, so that you can use a flathead screwdriver on them)
If you did remove these screws while cleaning, after putting them in and lightly tightening them down, how many turns out did you set each one to?

Lastly, did you make sure the fuel screw's o-ring and washer were lined up right, when you put the screw and spring in?
 
  #7  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:35 AM
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Also make sure the carb sync holes are plugged properly. Mine was bogging down last week before one of the screws completely fell out, luckily the starter motor caught it.
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JNSRacing View Post
You should definitely make sure your R/R connector wires are in good shape, but I think that's a separate issue to what you're describing, and it sounds like your pilot circuit may be too rich or too lean. If you get popping and crackling in your exhaust, when you're off throttle in deceleration, "winding down" the gears, that would help to diagnose it as more than likely lean.

Questions:

Does it pop on decel, as described above?

When you cleaned the carbs, did you remove the fuel screws and properly clean those passages, and the screws?
(Since it takes a special tool, due to the D-shaped screw head, most people look at that as some spooky $#!t they're not supposed to touch, and ignore it! You can get the tool pretty cheap, or you could slot the heads carefully with a Dremel and a thin cutting wheel, so that you can use a flathead screwdriver on them)
If you did remove these screws while cleaning, after putting them in and lightly tightening them down, how many turns out did you set each one to?

Lastly, did you make sure the fuel screw's o-ring and washer were lined up right, when you put the screw and spring in?

I don't remember if the exhaust was popping or not when decelerating. I have not been riding it because of some other work I am doing ride now.

When I cleaned the carbs i did not touch the pilot screw. I was thinking that I may have to adjust it after reading through some other forums. I found the tool for like $12 online.

I read that adjusting the pilot screw in half turns is the way to adjust it. My original instinct is that it is running rich from doing research.

Thanks for all the help!
 
  #9  
Old 02-22-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by f2_fighter View Post
I don't remember if the exhaust was popping or not when decelerating. I have not been riding it because of some other work I am doing ride now.

When I cleaned the carbs i did not touch the pilot screw. I was thinking that I may have to adjust it after reading through some other forums. I found the tool for like $12 online.

I read that adjusting the pilot screw in half turns is the way to adjust it. My original instinct is that it is running rich from doing research.

Thanks for all the help!
It's possible that ciruit is gummed up and/or the screw settings may be off, not only set incorrectly, but not set consistently from one carb to the next.

Once you get those out, and clean that circuit, bottom out the screws, but not tightly, then start each one at 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out, and see how things go.
Be sure to keep track of all the components, and how they go together - there's the screw, a very small o-ring and washer, and a spring, and avoid getting any carb cleaner on those little o-rings, unless the carb cleaner is designated as safe for rubber components.

Before the tool arrives, you could probably at least get the screws out for cleaning, by carefully using some needle-nose pliers, with some electrical tape wrapped around the ends.

Good luck, and tell us how it goes!!
 
  #10  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:32 AM
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The rectifier WILLL go sometime. It is what they do (if an F2). They have a very low tolerance for heat and Honda was made aware of the design flaw soon after production. They're usually good for about 13 thousand or so miles, which is what my bike had when the mechanic discovered it. He said "your electrical system is fried". The Rectifier was toasted, along with the plug and about 4-5 inches of wiring just after the RR. Wasn't a huge deal, because I had done plenty of reading about common problems with the F2 and I had given a new rectifier (that I got off ebay) to the mechanic in case there was a problem, which I had a feeling there was. There are plenty of cheapo RR's manufactured, which are redesigned to be more durable/heat tolerant, that will work just as good and better than the original, simply because there is an issue with the original ones. Rectifiers can cost up to 170.00 dollars, but don't believe that you have to pay that much, because I have a 19 dollar one in my bike now and it works fantastically. Hopefully your problem is the rectifier rather than the carbs, because its a very simple fix. You may want to make sure that the connections in your electrical system are nice and tight. I have heard of an engine issue because of a loose connection in the headlights. Also be a good idea to check to see if it's not a vaccum leak in the carbs?
 

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