Setting up an F2 for the track - somebody has done it?
#11
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thanks for your imput. I have a 94, so i do have the cartridge front end, and apreciate your advise there, but i'm alittle confused about the shock. it says right on the rachtech site, shock gold valve kit, SMGV S4602. in any event, i might shy away from this option anyway, depending on what the other options cost. It looks like you are running an aftermarket shock, where does one get one for this bike and how much does it run?
#12
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You'll find another shock on the WERA site or Ebay.Be patient,do not fall for auction fever when bidding.After Xmas is the best time to buy on Ebay,'cause no one wants to spend.
An F4/F4i Ohlins/Penske/Fox will work on an F2 or an F3,but you have to drop the ride height all the way down.No longer than 310mm,eye-to-eye.
300-500 dollars for Ohlins,250-350 for Fox,dunno 'bout Penske.These prices are for shocks that are in good condition.
By the time you spend money on a valve kit for the rear and have the work done,you can get a good shock with all the bells and whistles.
An F4/F4i Ohlins/Penske/Fox will work on an F2 or an F3,but you have to drop the ride height all the way down.No longer than 310mm,eye-to-eye.
300-500 dollars for Ohlins,250-350 for Fox,dunno 'bout Penske.These prices are for shocks that are in good condition.
By the time you spend money on a valve kit for the rear and have the work done,you can get a good shock with all the bells and whistles.
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#13
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As for the peg mod, I did one last night to my own F2. Imade a 1/4" piece of flat steel 1" x 5", removed my left side rearset and used it as a template to mark two sets of holes in the steel, one set 1 1/4" above the other, then drilled them all to 5/16". I bolted that flat plate in place of the rearset using two 8 mm bolts (each) of the correct thread, then bolted the rearset to the plate, using the original rearset bolts, with nuts on the backside. Worked great. I did have to extend my shift rod by one inch, which I did by cutting it near the forward end and sleeving it with a 3" section of 5/16" steel (brake line) tubing, and welding it back together. If I were going to do it again, I'd shape the plates a little more, and drill the one pair of holes the correct size to drill and tap so no nuts would be necessary on the backside, and offset the hole pattern a little so that the bolt and/or nut on thebackside of the platedoesn't hit the frame in the bottom hole. I wound up slotting the holes a little to accomplish this on this prototype set, and welded the nuts to the backside. It's every bit as strong as the factory mount. I can take a pic or two if so desired. [8D]
#14
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