First, is a picture of what I have currently (pretty old picture). I am looking to paint my bike this winter. I will be sanding, epoxying, priming, and clear coating. The current paintjob was just painted over the factory job it appears- though still really nice.

What kind of sandpaper should I be using to get rid of the old paint? I assumed grittier first, then finer. And what is this "wet" sand paper? Should I be using that? Can I just rip the stickers off? I also want to repair a couple really small cracks, what kind of bondo-material should I use for that? Do I address the cracks from the back or front... Or both?

Finally, here is the design I will be doing (or something very similar). The black and white location is final, but I don't know what colors to go with as far as the dark purple and dark teal. What two colors do you think would look good with the rest of the white and black?

And thanks for your help. I can't wait to get started this winter.

 

Cant help you with alot of your questions but i do know you need to put flexer in the paint when you paint the plastic or it will crack. Also i'd think you'd want to want to use like fiberglass instead of bondo...not shure though, Both paint schemes are very cool though! I like the lime green, But maybe a bright blue and orange? or orange and green? or blue and green?

 

i would just go with the first design but a diff color. the second design kind of sucks imo.

 

to take off old paint use 180p grit dry and go to 400 grit you can use a da but be careful and only use it on flats or you will create waves in the plastic. wet sanding is what you will do on the primer start with 400 and go to 800 being careful to hold the block flat and use alot of water try and not cut thru because you will have to prime over the cut thrus again you can not put base coat over raw plastic and be sure to get the correct adhesion promoter and flex additive for the primer. also put flex in the clear. the cracks you should use a flexible 2 part epoxy 3m makes a good one not sure of the part number for it check with a auto body supply store and they will be able to hook you up with any products or questions you have. repairing you are going to want to v out the cracks on both sides with 180 grit and fill the crack from both sides and sand it flat. any other questions i work in a body shop and will help out as best i can.

 

Wet sanding is what you do to smooth out the paint, so you end up with a mirror finish instead of that rough orange peel look. Some poeple rub it back between coats, but personaly i think its a bit overkill unless your going for a show finish. i usually just wet sand the clear coat, then buff or polish.

 

Thanks for the help all. I just tried out blue and orange, and I may go with that. It looks really good. As for the design; I was thinking about going with the same paint scheme I have now but different colors. I see too many bikes with that kind of look. I dont really like that agressive "flowing backwards" look. I want to take advantage of having a nice big canvas on an old bike and paint something goofy and retro looking.

I am really concerned about what paint to use. I don't need a show bike-conditioned paint job, but I want solid, bold colors, with straight lines and not extreme chipping. I am really looking to use a rattlecan. Some sort of auto touch up paint or something? I read eurethine based paints are good. I think I have the process down, I have all winter so I will definitely take my time and put all my effort into it. I just want to use the cheapest but still decent looking materials for the job.

Where should I go about getting the sand paper, paint, and other supplies? Online, or just check stores?

Thanks all, ill be sure to post some pics when i get started this winter.

 

Ok.........


For starters, FLEX agent WILL change the color and I have only heard bad things.

I just did a total repaint and fixed around 10 cracks.

DON'T sand off all of your paint down to bare plastic or you will have tons of issues with adhesion regardless of the adhesion promoter you use.

Read this and ask if you have any questions.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...ighlight=99ls1

 

Thanks 99LS1. Your bike looks so good. All that time and effort really looks like it payed off. I too am in northeastern US and will have a solid winter to work on my bike.

My main concern is the type of paint I will be using. I dont have a paint gun or even an air compressor for that matter. I am good with a can, and know that if I can find the correct type of paint in a can, I will be ok. Would it really be that horrible to do a bunch of thin coats of krylon with clear coat? Obviously prepping and sanding accordingly.

Also, what kind of heat shielding should I be using and where?

Thanks so much for that post. I learned so much after reading through the whole thing.

btw, that subtle off color on your rims is the best part in my opinion. Keep those things
clean

 

what kind of paint do you use 99ls1 we use sikkens at the shop i work for and have never had adhesion problems as long as you clean it really good with dgreaser and use the promoter and dont try and base over raw plastic never had a problem with the flex additive either but if you use a high quality paint you probably wont need the flex at all we ussualy ony use it on like crown vic bumpers that fold in half when you take them off

 

I didn't use any type of heat shield, as long as your lower plastics aren't sitting against your header then you shouldn't have any issues.

My personal opinion is if your going to take the time to pull all the plastics, sand, prep to paint, why not use something that is going to last more than a year, which im not saying it isn't but you wont get nearly as high of quality of a job as you would with automotive paint from a gun. Take it to a body shop and see what they would charge if you disassembled and prepped all of your parts. That way they can't dick you with labor.



I use ppg/global products. I personally haven't had anything happen yet with plastic but I have heard its the hardest thing to paint. Better to have extra precaution so your not starting over when it decides to lift on you. Yes, if the plastics where more flimsy I would use flex agent but these bike plastics are pretty solid. I think the most flimsy was the big lower fairings.