I remember reading that thread when you first started. I was looking forward to your progress but I noticed you stopped updating it since the 6th.

 

Yeah I'm in the process of moving about 1500 KM's away, so things have been put on hault until I'm settled.

I've been keeping myself busy by rebuilding some carbs I bought off ebay which were supposed to be for my build but are different from my original carbs... I can't figure out what these carbs are from - they look like F3 carbs but they do not have a TPS.

You're still in good shape for only putting $800 into it, a couple more bucks and she'll be running like a top.

 

Still haven't had a chance to buy a compression tester yet. Could you further explain the bad valve guides and how it would cause excessive compression?

 

I've never understood that one personally, the worn valve guides, but I have read a few times that it can attribute to crankcase pressure.

Almost 100% of the time excessive crankcase pressure is worn piston rings, or rings that were installed incorrectly.

 

One thing that I've known to happen is if you have a bad head gasket, because the water pump is pushing antifreeze into the internals of the engine and building up pressure. Thats not exactly the most likely thing and its not like you'd be any better off if that were the case, but I've had that happen to me on a motor before.

 

I hope everyone had a happy holiday. I just came back from my gf's house and jumped right back into diagnosing the motor. Besides the potential blowby/bad rings scenario I think the timing might be off too. I screwed off the pulse generator cover and noticed the cam chain sprocket was some kind of aftermarket one without the marks. Now my question is how did the guys before me set the timing correctly? I think I just got myself into another bad situation..and to think the guy seemed somewhat genuine. I think I'll be giving this guy a call to see how he exactly got this bike to run with bad rings and off timing.

 

That's probably a timing advance sprocket, and I think they only go on in one position but I am not 100% positive on that.

That's definitely a racebike motor!

 

fuuck..which probably means it been beat to hell.

 

It looks just like a Factory Pro ignition advancer rotor. Hmm...I wonder what else could be upgraded on this motor?

 

Seems to me that the rational thing to do would be to use the housing of your replacement engine and the internals of your original motor. Do new rings and whatnot while you're in there, just transfer the whole head over. Take a look at the shift forks on the transmission and see which would be better to go with. You've got a whole ****load of work to do, but its not like you'll have to spend a whole lot more than you already have.