Need your help
#1
09-15-2010, 12:02 AM
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Need your help
well i bought a 93 f2 it has some cracked bodywork and i think i can fix it with bondo but would it be possible to sand and paint the whole bike. Ive never tryed to paint plastic. so whats yalls idea on this adventure. Dont want to spend $500 for ebay china bodywork. Oh and is bonda a good idea? 
#2
09-15-2010, 03:53 AM
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Painting plastic isn't that big of a deal.
First, sand of all the paint currently on it. Drill out all the end of ALL the cracks with the tiniest drill bit to ensure they don't spread. Lightly dremel the cracks and fill with bondo. Place structural adhesive on the backside for additional support and to help avoid flexing the plastic and re-opening the plastic.
Sand it smooth, then primer with sandable primer. Sand again until perfectly smooth. Paint with primer. Sandable primer and regular primer from a can are fine given patience and a proper environment to spray in.
From there, just spray it like you'd spray automotive body work, and you're done.
First, sand of all the paint currently on it. Drill out all the end of ALL the cracks with the tiniest drill bit to ensure they don't spread. Lightly dremel the cracks and fill with bondo. Place structural adhesive on the backside for additional support and to help avoid flexing the plastic and re-opening the plastic.
Sand it smooth, then primer with sandable primer. Sand again until perfectly smooth. Paint with primer. Sandable primer and regular primer from a can are fine given patience and a proper environment to spray in.
From there, just spray it like you'd spray automotive body work, and you're done.
#4
09-15-2010, 06:33 PM
If it's original paint, you may not need to remove all paint from the area, if you DO remove it all and go back to the bare plastic, you MUST use plastic primer so that it bonds to the plastic, or over time it will flake off.
If you don't want to waste a lot of time, or are painting with Cellulose over basecoat/clearcoat or vice versa, or are at all unsure, you're best to use isolator, to stop any solvent reaction.
If you're adding decals, ensure that you clean the decal afterwards to remove any traces of the adhesive backing residue, this will react with the final coats.
But as above, repair the damage and get it smooth, plastic filler is good as it has a bit more flex than regular filler. sand it wet with 400grit, and get the whole painting area dull.
prime and flat it with 800 dry, just enough to smooth it, then prime again, flat it again, and add your colour, flat with 1200, buff it out, and you're sorted.
Cellulose paints don't require a clear coat, but I always add them to protect the paint and vinyls. A good paint job is 100% about the preparation. But, remember that you won't get a fantastic finish with aerosol cans.
If you don't want to waste a lot of time, or are painting with Cellulose over basecoat/clearcoat or vice versa, or are at all unsure, you're best to use isolator, to stop any solvent reaction.
If you're adding decals, ensure that you clean the decal afterwards to remove any traces of the adhesive backing residue, this will react with the final coats.
But as above, repair the damage and get it smooth, plastic filler is good as it has a bit more flex than regular filler. sand it wet with 400grit, and get the whole painting area dull.
prime and flat it with 800 dry, just enough to smooth it, then prime again, flat it again, and add your colour, flat with 1200, buff it out, and you're sorted.
Cellulose paints don't require a clear coat, but I always add them to protect the paint and vinyls. A good paint job is 100% about the preparation. But, remember that you won't get a fantastic finish with aerosol cans.