My Winter Project
#1
08-23-2011, 07:37 AM
My Winter Project
alright so i have a 1994 cbr 600 f2, and i thank for the people who helped me with my overheating problem. I ended up just wiring the fan so i kicks on when the bike is turned on and i havent had any problems since. The reason why i'm writing this thread is i'm wanting to do a winter project with my f2 and pretty much strip it down and get the frame powder coated with the rims and stuff. But i do have a list of stuff i'm buying so i can replace/fix all the minor things. I'm gonna warn you i guarantee any questions i have may be no brainers to you guys but this is my first real riding season and i've never really stripped a bike down before so i apologize for the noobness now. and if you think theres something else i should go ahead and replace while its all taken apart feel free to let me know any help is appreciated. Also if you know a website with better deals or better quality items please let me know like i said i'm new to all this.
fork seals-34.95
HONDA FORK-SEALS Fork Seal Kit Fits CBR600F2 1991-1994.
rear sprocket-67.99
vortex blue rear sprocket
Chain-99.99
O-RING MOTORCYCE CHAIN- BLUE
Alarm-49.99(lower insurance)
alarm system for motorcycles
fairing bolts-35.98
motorcycle windscreen bolts in blue
Fairings-745.00
Honda CBR600 F2 1991-1994 Fairing 10
ps:i'm wanting to add two teeth to my rear sprocket my only problem is i dont know the widths for them and same with the chain i dont know the oem link count or what kind of chain i've been told the oem is 520 and 530 so i dont know who to go with. and if i go 2 teeth up in the rear can i still use the oem length or do i need a bigger one?
fork seals-34.95
HONDA FORK-SEALS Fork Seal Kit Fits CBR600F2 1991-1994.
rear sprocket-67.99
vortex blue rear sprocket
Chain-99.99
O-RING MOTORCYCE CHAIN- BLUE
Alarm-49.99(lower insurance)
alarm system for motorcycles
fairing bolts-35.98
motorcycle windscreen bolts in blue
Fairings-745.00
Honda CBR600 F2 1991-1994 Fairing 10
ps:i'm wanting to add two teeth to my rear sprocket my only problem is i dont know the widths for them and same with the chain i dont know the oem link count or what kind of chain i've been told the oem is 520 and 530 so i dont know who to go with. and if i go 2 teeth up in the rear can i still use the oem length or do i need a bigger one?
#2
08-23-2011, 09:40 AM
Senior Member
It looks like a lot of your picks are based on show instead of go - which is fine, but understand that you don't need to sacrifice quality for something that anodized.
I don't know what brand those fork seals are, but they are definitely a piece you don't want to go with a no-name brand on. If you go cheap and they start leaking in 4 months, you just have to do a pretty labor-filled job all over again. Buy your seals from racetech, and while you're there pick up a set of their fork springs. The seals are cheaper anyway and Racetech does suspension for a living.
RT - Digital Product Search
Chain:
If replacing sprockets, you need to replace the chain - unless you know you have a fresh drivetrain and you're just swapping ratios. A drivetrain (cahin and both sprockets) is considered a single functioning unit made up of 3 parts, and needs to be though of just like a transmission - you don't just replace one little part usually. If this bike has thousands of miles on the current equipment - I'd avoid swapping just one piece in the puzzle, or you will be introducing the potential for issues with skipping chains and link failures.
OEM is a 530, many swap to a 520 or 525 for weight savings, but really - 530 is the strongest. If you drop to a 520, you'll need to think about using a stronger chain for reliability and wear. Our bikes are stronger than the typical beginner 600, even if they are older, and a lot of the lower priced chains are rated only up to about 75hp - our bikes are closer to 100hp stock. To figure out what you have, you need to measure the width between inner plates on your bike. 530 means that there should be 3/8ths (.375") distance between them. 520 means there should be 2/8ths (.250") and a 525 means there shouls be 2.5/8ths (.3125"). If you're replacing rear sprocket and chain, you need to replace the front sprocket as well. Find a nice steel one like a JT, AFAM or Vortex. CBR 600F2/F3 91-96 Sprocket Center has pretty good deals and you aren't having to shop all over the place. I prefer steel sprockets, as aluminum ones can wear faster, resulting in more stretch and eventually needing to be replaced in less miles. If you want blue though -Vortex makes good stuff. If you go up 2 teeth on the rear, you're likely going to need a longer chain anyway.
Gearing:
Going up 2 teeth on the rear will lose you a little top end, and wake up the low end a little. If this is what you want, then fine.
Fairing bolts - your call there.
alarm - again, your call
Fairings - that fairing set you linked is available on ebay for about $200 less, and is probably coming out of the same factory.
HONDA 91-94 93 CBR600 CBR 600 CBR600F F2 ABS FAIRING 03 | eBay
I don't know what brand those fork seals are, but they are definitely a piece you don't want to go with a no-name brand on. If you go cheap and they start leaking in 4 months, you just have to do a pretty labor-filled job all over again. Buy your seals from racetech, and while you're there pick up a set of their fork springs. The seals are cheaper anyway and Racetech does suspension for a living.
RT - Digital Product Search
Chain:
If replacing sprockets, you need to replace the chain - unless you know you have a fresh drivetrain and you're just swapping ratios. A drivetrain (cahin and both sprockets) is considered a single functioning unit made up of 3 parts, and needs to be though of just like a transmission - you don't just replace one little part usually. If this bike has thousands of miles on the current equipment - I'd avoid swapping just one piece in the puzzle, or you will be introducing the potential for issues with skipping chains and link failures.
OEM is a 530, many swap to a 520 or 525 for weight savings, but really - 530 is the strongest. If you drop to a 520, you'll need to think about using a stronger chain for reliability and wear. Our bikes are stronger than the typical beginner 600, even if they are older, and a lot of the lower priced chains are rated only up to about 75hp - our bikes are closer to 100hp stock. To figure out what you have, you need to measure the width between inner plates on your bike. 530 means that there should be 3/8ths (.375") distance between them. 520 means there should be 2/8ths (.250") and a 525 means there shouls be 2.5/8ths (.3125"). If you're replacing rear sprocket and chain, you need to replace the front sprocket as well. Find a nice steel one like a JT, AFAM or Vortex. CBR 600F2/F3 91-96 Sprocket Center has pretty good deals and you aren't having to shop all over the place. I prefer steel sprockets, as aluminum ones can wear faster, resulting in more stretch and eventually needing to be replaced in less miles. If you want blue though -Vortex makes good stuff. If you go up 2 teeth on the rear, you're likely going to need a longer chain anyway.
Gearing:
Going up 2 teeth on the rear will lose you a little top end, and wake up the low end a little. If this is what you want, then fine.
Fairing bolts - your call there.
alarm - again, your call
Fairings - that fairing set you linked is available on ebay for about $200 less, and is probably coming out of the same factory.
HONDA 91-94 93 CBR600 CBR 600 CBR600F F2 ABS FAIRING 03 | eBay
Last edited by adrenalnjunky; 08-23-2011 at 09:48 AM.
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