ok i just recently cleaned out my carbs and jets on my cbr f2, i tested the carbs by pouring a lil gas in each barrel and the bike crank and i rev it once and it rev but only for a sec because of lack of gas. So i was thinking yes i cleaned them right lol. Ok so i goto to put bck the air filter and gas tank and try to crank it now. Well it only stays on in choke and if i take it off choke i have to full throttle it to stay on , if i low throttle it stalls. And also i smell something burning as i continue to rev it. Could it be bad gas? the bike has been sitting for awhile.

 

did you sync the carbs???

 

hmm no i didnt... i guess that could be the problem

 

sync is a good idea but dont sound like ur problem. make sure u put it back together exactly right.jet needles and especially ur pilot jets and fuel screws spray cleaner through the passage ways on the intake side of the carb to make sure they aint cloged.

 

aight, im getting a lil anxious wit this bike i dont really want to take it to the shop but im leaning towards that because i want to drive it.

 

Like cowboy said....pull the carbs again. There are 3 jet intakes in the bowl. Spraying carb cleaner through there, you should see the spray come out of other parts of the carbs.

The idle jet (non-removable) will come out the under the the baseplate into the venturi and out where the idle screw sits.

The other jets will have 2 exits. one out the top of the carbs and 2 above the baseplates (one being the needle jet).

When using the red nozzle that comes with the carb cleaner, you should be able to spray into the intakes and get good mist out of all the appropriate ports. If you don't, you need ot run a very fine wire through the holes. Make sure the wire is smaller than the holes; the wire from a wirebrush works great.

You should remove the needlejet and pilot screws to make sure all is unobstructed. Make sure the points of both the valve and the screws aren't bent. Also, when putting the screws back in, don't tighten. Just go till it stops. Then back them out and described by the manual. Make sure to note if any of the diaphragms for the needle valve seem loser wider, have a hole or otherwise...that will certainly cause a problem. Also make sure the choke opens and closes smoothly.

Then make sure you sync the carbs and fine tune the adjustment of the screws.

 

Sounds like you didn't quite do something right with the carb setup. Follow Woo's instructions for starters. Don't place a whole lot of stock in the carb sync, thats something I'd worry about once the bike actually runs. I'd also be looking at the condition of your spark plugs and if they are fouled for whatever reason. I'd throw a new set of plugs in it just for kicks just so you wouldn't have to worry about that variable. Then go over all of the carb stuff like I said. Download a shop manual if you need it.

 

ok ill try those things out again, i already shelled out 40 bucs for spark plugs so those should be fine. I can get the bike running now but now it seems to be a throttle problem. Ill let it run for couple minutes and when i try to press the gas it bogs down and either cranks off or rev up slowly..and also it runs kinda rough, not sure if these bikes sound a lil rough normally but i doubt they do. i hear alot of chatter in the engine. Also question about the jets, when i did clean them should i have been able to see straight through the smaller jet of the three? Because i couldnt see through it, but i could use a air gun and kinda feel a slight breeze on the other side. But the small holes on the side were fine, but i did notice that one of the small jets looked different than the others(not sure if it were supposed to), the holes on the side of it werent straight like the others. It was kinda like a step ladder design. o boy if there is anyone in GA that can help me plz stop by lol, ill even pay. But thx guys ill try those things mentioned again

 

You should check out the HowTo forum and look up the carb cleaning articles, those should help you out quite a bit. And about the spark plugs, even if you just replaced them if they got fouled in the process of trying to get things started, it doesn't matter if theres 0 miles on them. They could still be fouled and not work right. This actually happened to me, and like you I didn't really want to shell out the bills to replace a bunch of plugs that I just bought. So here's what I did.

If your plugs aren't oily or don't seem to be fouled then this is unnecessary. But If they are then you can remedy it by heating up the electrodes with a propane torch. I used propane to burn everything off until the top electrode just barely started to glow red. The point is to just get rid of all that crap that is keeping it from making a real nice spark. I did that to my plugs and have put a couple thousand miles on them since. Most shops and whatnot just replace the plugs when they get fouled because its not worth their time to clean them up like that. Which makes sense with the plugs only cost 1.50 each, but thats not the case with these bikes.

 

well thats the how-to i used, but im going to go through it again i guess[:@]