F2 runs out of fuel at full throttle
#1
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I have a pristine 91' F2, that I bought used in 96, and have had 10 great years with it, and would like to keep ridding for a while longer. however, theservice costs have become more frequent and expensive.
It seems any repair service these days is around $500 bucks or more regardless how significant or simple.
on successive occasions recently:
...front fork seal, $400
...degunk the carbs, $550
...new clutch $500
now the bike runs out of gas when ridden hard for more than a few seconds. need to pull over and wait a minute or two. any ideas; fuel filter, fuel pump, kinked fuel line? any way to check before turning it in for repairs?
thanks,
It seems any repair service these days is around $500 bucks or more regardless how significant or simple.
on successive occasions recently:
...front fork seal, $400
...degunk the carbs, $550
...new clutch $500
now the bike runs out of gas when ridden hard for more than a few seconds. need to pull over and wait a minute or two. any ideas; fuel filter, fuel pump, kinked fuel line? any way to check before turning it in for repairs?
thanks,
#2
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really critical advise.spend some quality time with your machine. if ur kid is sick u dont just send them away to the doc, u gotta kiss the boo boo first. ne way what im sayin is love your f2, take the tank off, check it out. oh and u had me scared when i read it runs out of gas. i would have said u have gasoline thirsty geimlins in ur tank.
#3
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I don't have all the fancy analogies but I second that after ten years you should be ready to become intimate with that bike. The fork seals and clutch I would probably have a shop do as well, but $550 to clean the carbs??? Insane! Now does the bike actually'run out' ofgas under hard throttle or does it get sluggish and hesitate? I ask because it seems you just had the carbs clean and it seems more likely that the bike is getting too much fuel at hard throttle now...either it is not getting enough airflow to match the fuel from the cleaner carbs, or even worse the technicians damaged the carbs when cleaning them and you are getting way too much fuel...can you smell fuel when you pull over?
The best way to diagnose this problem is topull the plugs and see what kind of fouling they are getting...
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
The best way to diagnose this problem is topull the plugs and see what kind of fouling they are getting...
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
#4
#5
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My guess would be faulty floats and/or fuel inlets.
What's happening is that the fuel system is supplying enough gas for moderate riding...but then when you open the throttle up, and hence need and burn more fuel, all the fuel in the bowls is getting used up...and then you sputter and die.
The gas is not being replaced fast enough into the bowls that is then vacumed by the venturi caused by the blow and squeeze of the engine/cylinder.
Take the carbs completely off...and then apart...soak all the needles, jets, carb bodies in a vat, then take some tag wire and clean all the little holes in the jets, idle jet, mid jets, main jets etc.
The when you reassemble the carbs, including putting the floats back in the bowl of the carbs, sliding the retaining pin that lets the bowl pivot, thus opening the main fuel inlet, and also closing the main fuel inlet when the bowl is full.
Make sure there is no restriction in the pivot of the float. That it picks up and falls easily into the bottom of the bowl.
Check the rubber o-rings as well.
I worked in a bike shop for almost two years...and did so many of these...
You will need to set the float height as well...in other words...when the float reaches it's full level.
The whole thing works just like the shut off valve in a toilet.
What's happening is that the fuel system is supplying enough gas for moderate riding...but then when you open the throttle up, and hence need and burn more fuel, all the fuel in the bowls is getting used up...and then you sputter and die.
The gas is not being replaced fast enough into the bowls that is then vacumed by the venturi caused by the blow and squeeze of the engine/cylinder.
Take the carbs completely off...and then apart...soak all the needles, jets, carb bodies in a vat, then take some tag wire and clean all the little holes in the jets, idle jet, mid jets, main jets etc.
The when you reassemble the carbs, including putting the floats back in the bowl of the carbs, sliding the retaining pin that lets the bowl pivot, thus opening the main fuel inlet, and also closing the main fuel inlet when the bowl is full.
Make sure there is no restriction in the pivot of the float. That it picks up and falls easily into the bottom of the bowl.
Check the rubber o-rings as well.
I worked in a bike shop for almost two years...and did so many of these...
You will need to set the float height as well...in other words...when the float reaches it's full level.
The whole thing works just like the shut off valve in a toilet.
#6
#7
#8
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Hi i get flat spots in my bike gets to 50+ MPH but nothing before is there anything i can do to solve it? I did go and get dyno jets and set up on a dyno machine and it wasnt as bad after that but it's still there. below is the results of the dynojet. Thanks in advance. Des
[IMG]local://upfiles/17529/66E94A79736445BDBB456325D8D45DBF.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/17529/66E94A79736445BDBB456325D8D45DBF.jpg[/IMG]
#9
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i just bought a 94 F2 with a similar, self-induced problem. Long story short, the vacuum tube going to the fuel petcock was cracked and sucking in air...lots of it. replaced the tube and bike has been running smoothly ever since.
before you go ripping the carbs apart i'd check that as well as the fuel lines.
before you go ripping the carbs apart i'd check that as well as the fuel lines.