I've posted a question on here b4 a while back bout but only got one response. Basically my bike has 66,276 miles and needless to say my clutch is worn slap out. I have to drive it more like a car than a bike so it doesn't slip. It only gives me problems when i get on it and the revs get up high then it slips alot and doesn't wanna really pull past like 95mph. I try not to dog it to much cause it's all i have to drive. Anyway i ordered most everything i need for the whole clutch to be new ( frictions,metals,springs,judder spring,spring seat and gasket). Ive had it now for like a month just waiting to get up some extra money to get the oil and filters and new plugs so it'll be tuned up good. I just am nervous bout doing it cause i've read about people having problems with the spring bolts as far as how tight they should be and about the clutch slipping again after they've just replaced it and i don't need that happening to me because it's my only ride!!! I have a clymer book and believe i can change it myself but i don't have the center plate holder tool or an impact to get it off. I'd just like a rundown from someone on the best way to change it out besides just taking it to a dealer. Starting at once the clutch cover is off and i'm looking at the guts of it,what is the way to get the hub apart to get to the plates, and can i get it apart without that tool? What is the right specs for tightening the spring bolts up? Also what is the BEST OIL TO USE when i fill it back up (and not car oil either)? Synthetic or non syn or the half & half? Sorry for dragging this out and asking a **** load of questions but i just want my baby fixed the right way and i know a few of you guys on here know the right way!!! I hope to hear responses from many people on this. Thanks alot for taking the time to read this and responding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

There are a couple of good write-ups in the how-to section, including this one is pretty good.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/clutch-removal-inspection-installation-explained-35380/

Edit: And the oil that you put in your bike is up to you, obviously synthetic is the higher price, higher performance oil, but for just every day riding conditions there is nothing wrong with your regular 10-W40 bike oil.

I am also doing this to my roommate's bike, but for the life of me I cannot get the clutch cover off.

I don't know if there is something that I am missing, but I am removing all of the clutch cover bolts, disconnecting the clutch cable and turning it do disengage it, and it just wont move at all.

Any help from someone who has done this already that could help me out would be great, thanks.

 

hey thanks for that link. guess i didn't look around good enough in here b4 writing a thread. hisx clutch is just a bit diff. looking than the 93 f2 but i guess it's the same rundown

 

you dont the tool to get that nut off... let me back up, after the cover is removed first take off the pressure plate per the (4) 10mm bolts take those for nuts off then remove pressure plate and judder spring...now you have to deal with that nut... its a 27mm nut so if you dont have one of those sockets, goto ACE and buy one for 7 $, thats what i did. now also youll probably need a 3/8 to 1/2 in up socket adaptor. because that socket will only fit a 1/2 wrench, but i dunno if you have one. just so ya know they do make an adaptor for it. ok now you have the tools to bust that nut. first i'd reccomend unstakeing it i used a sm flathead or icepick or something of the sort hit it in with a hammer to unstake. i grinded an old flat head to the size it needed. now the 27mm nut is unstaked. put the 27 mm socket on there and either A) have someone hold the rear brake, or B) put a steel rod or thick rod (not a broomstick (tooweak) ) thru the rear tire rim and the frame right above the chain...so now when you turn the nut the tire does not move. dont worry this will not damage it because i know cause i did it this way. if you have a buddy on hand id say try having him hold the brake while you unnut it first. but prepare for a battle with getting that fu.c.ker off. now id say the hard part is over. you can pull the basket out now, remove the old friction plate and steel plates. replace with new ones exactly as it was removed. there will be a skinny friction plate that will go in first there should be a ring it fits around. make sure u soak in good moto oil overnight . and put back together.

 

oh and when you put the pressure plate back on, you dont need them exact torqued to spec, i tightened mine to where the plate is about flush with the basket. just look at where it is before you removed the bolts, and put it back to the spot it was before it was removed. so when the cover is back on and the cable is hooked up to the mechanism there will be about 1-2mm free play before theres pressure.

 

if you cant get the cover off use a rubber mallet around the edges, dont straight up nail it, but gently tap all around the seam. Hammers fix everything. Even landlords. sorta.