Hey guys, I'm having trouble after replacing the clutch on my f2. No matter what I do, I can't get the clutch to release. I've poured over every clutch diagram I can find, and I'm 99.9% sure I put everything back in in the correct order. I also made sure I tightened the clutch springs to the proper torque spec. I've also tried adjusting the cable both at the lever and the clutch cover. I can get it to where it feels like it SHOULD be working properly, but I still can't kick it down into 1st without it grabbing and stalling immediately. Does anyone have any ideas on what might be going on? I've been fighting with it for weeks now and I'm just stumped.

 

Did you buy a honda OEM clutch? or was it some other brand?
Did you replace the steels also?
First thing do is check the thickness with calipers of the clutch fibers & steels.
Make sure they are within spec. Too thick and they will drag.

I'm assuming you soaked the fibers install?

 

I got very lightly used OEM clutch disks and I'm reusing the steels. The clutch was still working when I took it out, so I think the steels are still okay, at least enough that they shouldn't be causing this big of a problem. Only changed it because the friction plates were pretty much bare and it was slipping. Also I did make sure to soak the fibers. I'm honestly not sure what the thickness is supposed to be on the plates to check those

 

Ok, I've seen some aftermarket fibers that were too thick before.
But if you're using a use OEM, then that's not the problem. And they were soaked.
I'd still pull them and measure them. Give you an idea of the condition of them.
Measurements are below:

Spec mm (in) Service Limit (mm/in)
friction/fiber 2.92-3.08 (0.115-0.121) 2.60 (0.102)

And just to double check your assemble.
From the outside of the clutch, the first thing is the spring seat (large thin flat washer)
Next is the judder spring (convex side faces the spring seat)
Next is the clutch fiber with the large center hole. It's different from the other fibers.
This is important, it should fit over the spring seat and judder spring.
Then it's steel, fiber, steel, and so on, last one should be a fiber. 8 steel, 9 fiber total.

On finally thing, made sure your lift rod has the stopper ring (circlip on the end) or it won't push the clutch in.

 

Sorry, got to ask......side stand up ?

 

I'm going to double check the order today. I think I may have the judder spring in there wrong. I'll take the measurements while I'm at it.
.....and yes, the side stand is up?

 

Day late posting an update, but I finally got back to it today. Took the clutch back out, turns out I did have the judder spring in wrong. Fixed that, made sure the friction plates were all in spec, and reinstalled. Now for some reason, the lever is completely dead. Like loose and floppy. Adjusted the cable until it felt like it should be pressing on the clutch, and it’s as hard as a rock and I can’t squeeze the lever at all. I’m at a complete loss here. Took a bunch of pictures during the reinstall though, so if you see anything please point it out, no matter how obvious lol

 

ok, 2 things to check.

In the clutch cover is a clutch lifter pin.
They can fall out during reassembly.
If you look straight down from the top where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch arm.
The arm should be at about 8 oclock with the clutch lever all the way out.
about 10 oclock with the clutch lever pulled in. 12 oclock points toward the front of the bike.
Or take the cover off and make sure the pin is working properly.

2nd, then look at the clutch springs and see if they look like they are fully compressed.
If they are you won't be able to squeeze the clutch.
If so maybe remove the 4 bolts from the lifter plate and the remove it and the springs.
Once the pressure is off the clutch, grab a pair of the bolt hole towers of the rear pressure plate.
It should have some wiggle to it and rotate slightly (within the holes of the clutch center plate).
It's the piece that moves to engage/disengage the clutch. Make sure it's not stuck for some reason.

 

I got the clutch sorted out about 20 minutes ago. Ended up being that I didn’t have the clutch center and the the piece with the 4 posts on it for the springs lined up correctly. I had no idea that it could only go through the holes on the clutch center one way for it to slot in properly. Clutch has some chatter at idle now, but otherwise functions exactly how I would expect. Rode it around the parking lot a few times shifting between 1st and 2nd to verify.

However, unfortunately now that I’m able to ride it finally, I’m noticing that the revs want to hang up when I let off the throttle. Not a fun experience when you let off expecting it to engine brake and it hardly slows down at all 😅

Stopped and let it idle for a couple minutes and noticed that it’ll only sit in the 1000-1500 rpm range for a few seconds at a time before revving itself up to about 3000 and then easing back down again. Sort of reminds me of how a car would rev itself up to keep from stalling out when the idle control is bad.

Any ideas on what could be causing this?


That’s a video for the best I could do to demonstrate what it’s doing.

 

Most likely cause for this is a vacuum leak.
Check the boots between the carbs and engine for cracks.
Make sure the carbs are fully seated and the clamps are tight.
Make sure any vacuum hose are hooked up.

Could also be a leaking needle/seat in the carbs.
Also check that the choke cable is hooked up and working.
And that the throttle return is fully closing when you release the throttle.
If the bike has been sitting for any length of time, it might be worth cleaning the carbs if you haven't already.
Then adjust the idle mixture screws all to 1.5 to 2 turns out. Maybe 2.5 if the bike acts really cold blooded.
Something is causing the idle mixture to be off.