I have a 93 F2. I've had it for about 9 years and it has about 13000 miles on it. I rarely ride it due to tropical weather (rain about 11 months a year). Earlier this year when I went to start it, it would crank, but not start. The throttle was sticking, so I decided to thoroughly clean the carbs. I took everything apart. I also put it back together again. It started, but idled and ran very rough. Now, I just received a set of carb synchro's from England, but I'm not sure that I put the jets back to their correct setting? Could someone please tell me what the correct setting (or at least stock) for the jets on this model is? I think that if I get the jets done first, it will help a lot with the syncro. Right now all (8?) jets are screwed all the way in. That's how the were when I took them out. Helllppp..

 

I believe that the carbs might be different from country to country?? but when I get to work, I will look it up and post what I can.

 

According to the CLYMER manual...
1993 CBR600F2 main jet #135, Pilot Jet #38, pilot screw opening 2, float level 0,54

 

f2malaysia,
did it run ruff till about 6-7? i had the sameproblems it and turn on the needles for the jet kit i got were not closing the jet at low RPM so it was flooding the engen till about 6-7 then it took off and ran great. I put stock needles and it ran great. just something you may want to check out not sure if you have jeted it or chang out the needles.


Nipz~

 

Does pilot screw opening 2 mean 2 turns out from fully screwed in? And what about the main jet and needle? BTW my bike in Malaysia, is exactly the same as the one I had in La. So I'm guessing that the carbs are the same. Also could you tell me what Clymer says about the cmHg should be for the carbs?

 

man thats foreign language to me for sure!

 

Hi there
Did you manage to sort out your carb problems ?
I just joined the forum and have had the same problems with these carbs all too many times & sorted them all out .
Let me know if I can be of help.
I know these carbs inside out so I should be able to advise you.
Regards
Adrian

[IMG]local://upfiles/455/73F1591D1864485E88DCF47D55A09C62.jpg[/IMG]

 

ok so i rebuilt the carbs and got the new coils on. started right up but #2 and #3 headers weren't getting hot. i was like WTF? so i pulled the plugs to make sure they're getting spark. yeah, getting spark. WTF? checked secondary coil resistence and it's 23.5 (spec is 21-25) so that's good. so i took it for a highway spin for about 20 minutes to see if things would just sort of 'fall into place' so to speak.

so it pulls hard towards to top end, but seems to bog down and hesitate down at the low end. i had no trouble getting up to 135mph fast, but when i'd start to slow down it would hesitate at lower rpms.

when i got home i felt the headers and they were all too hot to touch so all 4 cylinders seem to be firing at higher rpms.

so now i'm confused as to what to check in the carbs. the pilot screw, the main jet or the slow jet? when i cleaned the carbs i made sure to clean all the jets thoroughly and wrote down the number of turns to back the pilot screw out.

 

First thing to check is the pilot jets as they meter all the fuel at tickover & the lower rpm range.(these are commonly blocked due to varnish deposits from unleaded fuels)
I know you cleaned them as you said , but if you remove them and hold them up to light you should be able to see through them although it it a very small hole.
If you cant then a very small needle / pin will clear them and blow out with compressed air (be careful with it though as you dont want too much force which will enlarge the jet size).
Also check all passage ways in carb by spraying carb cleaner about then blowing through all the orifices with compressed air and watching for spray leaving diffrent holes.
The other thing to look at is the jet to the other side of the main jet (from the pilot jet) which is not removeable (but it can be removed ask me later if info needed)
To check this jet attatch a piece of silicon tubing or other good sealing tubing and try to blow through with mouth force , it should give resistance but still be able to blow through it.
If not then clear it with needle and compressed air with carb cleaner.
Probably these two things will sort it out.
If you need diagrams I will get you them.
Let me know
Adrun@btinternet.com
P.S. the pilot air screw factory setting should be turned in (clockwise)until it stops then back out 2 turns but 2 1/2 turns if using a race can exhaust (although this setting is not too critical and wont cause the problems you are having.

 

when i say i rebuilt the carbs i mean i really cleaned them thoroughly, including removing and cleaning all jets and passages. i blew carb cleaner and compressed and compressed air through everything. all the passages were clear. i really doubt its anything internal in my carbs.

last night i checked for vacuum leaks around the rubber flanges between the carbs and the cylinders. i do have a vacuum leak there and am getting replacement flanges on wednesday. after i get them on i'll let you know if that did the trick.