Acceleration problems after changing spark plugs.
#11
#12
In a car, I'd be looking at the plug wires. Check that they are seated in the coils, and that they are firmly on the plug.
Under load, a lot more voltage is needed to fire the plug. Unless the coil went bad (damned unlikely), then the transmission path (plug wires) are where to look.
Anyway, always with new issues, ya gotta ask: What did I do last that might have caused this deal? Seeing as how this popped up right after the plug change, that's where you need to be looking.
Under load, a lot more voltage is needed to fire the plug. Unless the coil went bad (damned unlikely), then the transmission path (plug wires) are where to look.
Anyway, always with new issues, ya gotta ask: What did I do last that might have caused this deal? Seeing as how this popped up right after the plug change, that's where you need to be looking.
#13
Am I right that if I just connect Tube 5 to hose 10 and leave everything in situ, I’ll bypass the solenoid?
If this is the case and it runs fine I could then just rip it all out
#14
Hi Gunk, yes basically, just follow the front pipes from the nose intakes, disconnect them off the solenoid and connect the Hose 10 and 5 intakes together , you can leave the pipes in place, in case you want to set it up with the solenoid later unconnect the solenoid as it wont be needed, all air will be supplied by the scoop intake
Last edited by CaBaRet; 11-04-2017 at 03:17 AM.
#16
As you can see off these 2 schematics ,Hoses 10 and 5
Last edited by CaBaRet; 11-04-2017 at 03:47 AM.
#17
#19
#20
Finally found some time to finish off the solenoid bypass.
I ordered one of these off eBay for just over a pound
Makes the pipework look very neat and OEM
Fitted a replacement fuel pipe (the original had split), which was a pig as it’s so tight and there is no room under the tank, but it went on in the end.
Took it for a short test ride and although it’s the best it’s ever been (no difference in power with the solenoid removed) it still splutters and loses power between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm, so further investigations are needed.
I ordered one of these off eBay for just over a pound
Makes the pipework look very neat and OEM
Fitted a replacement fuel pipe (the original had split), which was a pig as it’s so tight and there is no room under the tank, but it went on in the end.
Took it for a short test ride and although it’s the best it’s ever been (no difference in power with the solenoid removed) it still splutters and loses power between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm, so further investigations are needed.
Last edited by Gunk; 11-19-2017 at 06:46 AM.