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In a car, I'd be looking at the plug wires. Check that they are seated in the coils, and that they are firmly on the plug.
Under load, a lot more voltage is needed to fire the plug. Unless the coil went bad (damned unlikely), then the transmission path (plug wires) are where to look.
Anyway, always with new issues, ya gotta ask: What did I do last that might have caused this deal? Seeing as how this popped up right after the plug change, that's where you need to be looking.
Hi Gunk, yes basically, just follow the front pipes from the nose intakes, disconnect them off the solenoid and connect the Hose 10 and 5 intakes together , you can leave the pipes in place, in case you want to set it up with the solenoid later unconnect the solenoid as it wont be needed, all air will be supplied by the scoop intake
Are those silly little additional air filters necessary or could I bin them and just join the pipes
Hi Gunk , the only one that's not needed is the pipes from the front Auxillary air cleaner, the other 2 are needed as they clean the air from the scoop that doesnt go through the air box Filter,
As you can see off these 2 schematics ,Hoses 10 and 5
Hey,
When your at idle and rev her up does she return to idle immediately or no?
Just wondering if any loose debris wa pulled into the carbs after the removal of the air filter?
Finally found some time to finish off the solenoid bypass.
I ordered one of these off eBay for just over a pound
Makes the pipework look very neat and OEM
Fitted a replacement fuel pipe (the original had split), which was a pig as it’s so tight and there is no room under the tank, but it went on in the end.
Took it for a short test ride and although it’s the best it’s ever been (no difference in power with the solenoid removed) it still splutters and loses power between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm, so further investigations are needed.