Ok, I decided to go ahead and post some pics of me replacing my fork seals along with how I did it. Most of you know how to do this, but after actually looking at my manual, the directions weren't exactly clear and there was no actual pictures. Hopefully this will help someone. If this is in the wrong spot, by all means move it. First of all, obviously remove the forks. My left seal was leaking and aparently had been for along while before I got it as evidenced by the mess on the fork. Plus there was a little surface rust on the upper tube, I cleaned that up a bit too. Keep in mind, these forks are off a 94 f2.

You can see the built up grease and dirt on the lower tube here.



Here is the slight rust I mentioned.


Ok, now that the forks are off the bike I started disassembly. First thing was to turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise to release some of the pressure...



Then you unscrew the fork cap from the upper tube. There is still going to be a little presure there obviously. This is where I walked to the bucket and dumped out alot of fluid. and was left with this.




Next, you have to remove the fork cap itself in order to get the spring out. Be sure to check the oring at the top. Make sure its not swollen or cracked. If so, replace it before you reassemble or you will find yourslef having to redo this.... and thats never fun.




First remove the spring seat and the spring seat join plate, marked by the yellow and red arrow.



You may have to slightly push the spring down, then slide the top plate out, then lift the bottom plate.




Then the spring will slide right over and out.Then I hung it upside down to make sure all the oil I could get out was out.

I used a small flat head screw driver to remove the dust seal, then the snap ring for the oil seal.
At this stage you should have all three of these removed. Snap ring, spring seat, and spring seat join plate.




To remove the oil seal, you have to first remove the bolt on the bottom of the fork. I believe its a 7mm hex, not sure if I remember the size correctly.





Now that the bolt on the bottom is removed, find a way to secure the lower tube, I did this by laying it in a vise wrapped in rags and just barely snugging it up. Then grasp the top of the fork piston and pull. It may take repeated pulls, kinda like using a slide hammer. The oil seal should pop out. This is from the fork that was actually leaking. It even looked like this before I removed it.




The person that replaced this last, looks to have used a screwdriver to seat it. Of course, with what I have already seen, they were not a do it yourselfer.
And.... moving on.

With the fork piston removed from the fork tubes, inspect the bushings. Don't take them off unless they need to be replaced. Also, there is a crush washer where you removed the bolt from the bottom of the fork earlier. I always replace them. You can get them cheap at a hardware store. Just grab the ones you need, go in and match them up. Also, check any and all orings. Replace what you think is suspect. If in doubt, replace it. Alot cheaper and less frustrating to replace it when you have it apart the first time, then to have to go back and replace it after you have it back together.





All thats left is to clean it up and reinstall your seals. Use new dust shields too. You can get the lot for cheap.Just be sure to research who you get them from. Some companys quality control isn't up to par. I've replaced seals before, skipped on a cheap company, and had them leaking within a week. Not due to installer error either, just crap QC. As for me, I've had the best luck with All *****. That goes for their bearings too, but thats another subject. So, get a complete set, think these may have cost me bout 25 dollars with shipping.




I won't go over how to install the oil seals cause it has been gone over alot. I will say, make sure when putting your snapring back in, make sure it is fully seated in the groove. Oh, one thing I forgot to mention. Wipe the tubes before installing seals. Keep wiping. A lil bit of grime can scratch the tube or seal and then you will be leaking again.




Next install the dust seal until it is flush with the tube assembly.




Now installation is the reverse of removal. Fill with oil, pump the piston a few times to remove air, then fill to appropriate level. For my forks, I took the advice of 135mm from the top. Don't forget to cover the holes in the piston assembly when pumping or you will wear your fork oil, ask me how I know. doh....

Anyways, all said and done you should have this.... Wala




Hope this helps someone. If I missed something or did something wrong, by all means correct and inform. I'm sure I missed alot, but I still gotta get out there and get working on her so, til later....

 

Big thumbs up. If you'd have done this before the weekend it would have me scratching my head alot but hey ho. I'm sure it'll help another noob.

 

Sorry man, I had it on my computer, just now got around to posting it... You seem to have made out ok though.

 

How did you measure the 135mm of fork oil you put back in there? ie:cut down measuring stick, fancy gauge or some other way?

Thanks

 

I'm an auto mechanic by trade so I just used my digital caliper. But a cut down stick or anything that you know is the correct length would work. No need spending money on a fancy tool. I just happened to use what I had. A paint stick cut at the right length would work pretty good. You don't even have right it just measure it and mark it. Cheap quick and easy...

 

Great write up. I have to do my left fork seal later today.

I'll add one more helpful tip I've found. The easiest way to hold a fork leg is in the triple clamp. So I always cracking the the top cap and bottom bolt loose before pulling the fork leg out of the bike. I've had both stick before and it's a mega pain when the fork is off the bike.

 

Yeah,I did the same. Very good tip. Glad you mentioned it as I forgot.

 

Is the oil measured from the top or bottom? Like 1 or 2 ?
Thanks

 

neither 1 nor 2

 

Edited out my comment.