First i would like to thank each and everyone one of you. I have been lurking these forums for so long that thought i was registered and when I went to log in iI found out I wasnt. LOL
So my question is this:
What to do w/ the bike?

I recently Spun a rod bearing and although it still runs it wont for long.

Details:
87 CBR 600F Hurricane
8,000 miles
Air box mod
DynoJet jet kit
Delkavic Pipe
Intergrated Mirrors
Rear license plate LEDs for brake and blinkers
New Stator
New AGM Battery
New Brakes
Shinko 011's front and rear about 4k on them
New ABS side plastics in primer
New rear section fiber glass in primer
Head fairing in primer
Front fender in primer
New Grips - no bar ends

Well there it is. Let me know what you guys think!

Bill

 

Addendum:

I am not selling my bike or parts on this forum as I do not meet the requirements established by the mods. If selling for parts or an "as is" bike is the consensus, I will be doing that locally through craiglist or something like that.

Note: That is also why there are no pictures of the bike in the post, I'm not into shipping large items - I simply dont have time

Thanks,
Bill

 

It sounds pretty much complete. If you like the bike I would fix it. Or you could look for a replacement engine, or a donor bike. They are out there. I bought a complete running bike for $250 US.

Parting it out you might make a little money, but some of the parts you listed aren't worth that much (aftermarket fairings).

It's a tough spot, because unless it is a perfect example, then you have to look at all options, because the value just isn't there.

 

If you're comfortable doing the work yourself I would absolutely repair it whether you're planning to sell it or keep it. I've seen complete engines for this bike on Ebay for $400 or less. Personally I would pull the engine and tear it down to see how much damage is done considering the extremely low mileage on it.

 

The biggest question should be: Is it knocking, or squealing? A knock and yes, its probably a bearing, rod, main whatever. BUt if the knocking is very light it could be bad fuel.

If it is squealing, metal to metal nasty sound, it is probably a cam journal. I had that happen about 11 years ago to mine. A little piece of something made it past the filter and clogged the intake cams #2 oil journal. Since it is a chain driven cam it kept working long past when it should have. Cam and head got eaten alive. Bad valve float, nasty non stop squeal. I was mid ride and it just started squealing. I stopped instantly, but the damage was done.

 

Thanks for all the responses!

I do like the option of replacing the motor for a good cost.

to have some one else do the work that I'm too lazy to do and then have another shop repair the crank and then trust all that is good, i would rather just change the motor. It costs too much.
and it knocks pretty hard and didnt start off that way, i dumped it off to a guy who used to build race bikes. so i trust him.

But i would not be opposed to swapping the motor, perhaps i can sell the bike then and get a decent ROI? i think ive decided an a 1000cc bike so i may use that money to put towards an early 2000's 1000cc

 

New update:
So i purchased a used motor for 400 bucks. i swapped in the motor, gave it fluids and it will not start. I suspect theres no spark, but i only tried to turn it over for about 10 minutes. I thought i was waiting for the carbs to fill up, last time i did the carbs it took a while to get it fired up. the eniter time i was only able to get 1 hiccup out of it.

I had to take the starter and gears + distributor assembly from my old motor. maybe i didnt set that up right? is there any tricks involved in that?

Thanks Guys,
Bill

 

Morning Bump

 

If you want to quickly rule out a fuel delivery problem spray a small amount of carb cleaner or starting fluid down each carb intake and try to start it. Just real quick squirt is all you need to use..

If it's a spark problem it could be anything from coils or wires hooked up in the wrong place, spark unit not getting power, etc. The bike doesn't have a distributor, are you talking about the pulse generator/trigger wheel possibly? Check your fuses & check for spark at each plug to see if any of them are working. If you don't have it already download a copy of the service manual from the sticky post, and check out the troubleshooting section for no spark. It will walk you through testing all of the components to find out which one is not working. You'll need a multimeter to test some things, but that's probably the only special tool required.

It's a pretty simple system electrically, but it's easier to follow the troubleshooting step by step than try to diagnose it over the computer. If you don't have a multimeter get a test light, and with the key on you should have battery voltage on both coils at the black/white wire. At the spark unit there should be power on the black/white wire, good ground on the green wire, the yel/blue and blue/yel are the negative trigger for the coils. The other plug with the yellow, blue, and white/blue white/yel wires are pulse generator. Should be a section on how to test that in the manual, and make sure both connectors are plugged in between it and the spark unit. The engine stop switch can also cut power to the black/white wire to the coils/spark unit if it's malfunctioning. Check those things out & see if you find missing power or ground anywhere and we'll go from there..

Just to be clear, the engine does turn over fine just will not fire up & run correct?

 

Thanks you for the verbose response,

First where can i find the manual you are talking about, and a complete wiring diagram with pin assingments colors and deliniations?

Im used to big V8 drag motors and anything with trigger points on it we like to call a distributor, sorry about the language barrier.

I have DMMs floating around like half empty water bottle in your back seat lol, so thats not a problem.

motor turns freely by hand and with the starter, and i can feel each compression stroke. I started to smell fuel coming out of the tail pipe, so thats when gave a few more college tries and called it flooded. i didnt have starting fluid with me and i didnt want to dry out the diaphrams in the 26 year old carbs with brake cleaner or MAF cleaner so i passed on that. I'm probably going to give it a few more tries tonight and then start diagnosing the spark. I am confident that everything worked the other day with the old motor in it. I am also confident that i plugged everything back in.