i got a new front resevoir and brake lever. I hooked it all up and I have NO pressure in the lines what so ever. I undid the bleeder screw, and bled it like a car for....probably 30 minutes. pulling the lever down, loosening the screw. Tightening the screw letting the lever up....repeat. Never got any fluid to come into the caliper even. SO i unhooked the brake line right at the resevoir and used my finger to creat suction and eventually had pressure, so i hooked the front brake aseembly back up and went back down to the bleeder screw. Nothing.

Im so annoyed.

 

i read that i can leave my bleeder screws open over night and gravity will feed the fluid down through the tubes.. Then tomorrow I can attach suction at the Bleeder screw and suck the fluid downward until there's no bubbles. Repeat on other side.
Can someone verify the whole gravity feed thing? And also i read theres a bleed right up by the master cylinder on the handlebar that i should bleed? whattttt?

 

My guess is you have a banjo that is not quite tight. Check all your connections and try again. Then use this method:

Pump the lever 5 times. Hold pressure on the lever. Slowly crack open the bleeder til fluid starts to trickle out. Before the lever bottoms out, tighten the bleeder down. Repeat many many many times!

 

you can also cheat by going to autozone or pepboys and picking up a vacuum pump for about $20. Webbikeworld's How to Bleed Motorcycle Brakes and Hydraulic Clutch With the Actron Vacuum Pump

It's how I flushed my brakes last year and again today. Brakes were spongy. Now they're rock solid

 

Another solution is take a plastic water bottle put a hole in the cap, put a hose in there with some brake fluide so your not putting air in the lines. Then use a wire coat hanger around the bottle cap to use as a hanger so when your filtering the brakes it can hang by itself. My best suggestions is hook everything up. Fill the oil cup up to line with the specified recommendation. Pump the brake lines three times holding it and then release the wrench (8m or 9m) over the bleeder screew to let out any air bubbles. But make sure that the water bottle air tube is in some brake fluid and below you. Meaning that its hanging at a lower angle. That should take care of any issues. I had to change out my bleeder screw once because it was rusted. The other thing you want to make sure as well is that your pistons are froze up. I do this same process with my rear brakes.

 

I am a firm believer in using the proper tools for the job & following the proper procedure for optimum results as Kuro mentioned. However, if you can't afford a bleeder at this point, necessity is the mother of invention & Haskell76's method will work. Yes, I've done it this way myself in the past.

 

thanks guys. But what your talking about is the normal bleeding procedure, of making pressure by pressing the lever down, then undoing the bleeder, then tightening the bleeder. and repeating. lol Ive been doing that for hours. lol no pressure. Its weird. THats why i think i need the vaccum to suck the fluid down and out through the bleeder, just to make sure the fluid can actually make it through the lines, make sure they are not Clogged, and that the banjos are right.

 

Yeah the only tools you need are someone to either pump the brakes and hold the bottle and connect the hose from the bottle to the bleeder screw. Its a basic procedure.

 

By all means, get that bleeder! BTW, CycleGear carries bleeders as well.

 

? lol im not sure what your saying but i appreciate the help