Throttle / clutch cables.
Hello,
Don't know if I've posted this yet, but I recently bought two parts (one former street and one former track) bikes, '87 and '89 CBR 600Fs. I'm in the process of semi-refurbing and rebuilding them into one for my own personal use. I'm most of the way there, short a few parts, and am having a few little problems.
So, I need to know exactly where the throttle cables, and clutch cables are routed, from the handle all the way to the carbs. A picture of inside the frame (with the tank/airbox off obviously) would be of great assistance, and I can't find anything similar on the internet. The reason I ask is that I can't seem to find a way to route them where they have enough slack to turn the bars from one side to the other, while not having so much slack that they fold/bind up and make the throttle harder to turn while turning the wheel.
Thanks!
-Matt
Don't know if I've posted this yet, but I recently bought two parts (one former street and one former track) bikes, '87 and '89 CBR 600Fs. I'm in the process of semi-refurbing and rebuilding them into one for my own personal use. I'm most of the way there, short a few parts, and am having a few little problems.
So, I need to know exactly where the throttle cables, and clutch cables are routed, from the handle all the way to the carbs. A picture of inside the frame (with the tank/airbox off obviously) would be of great assistance, and I can't find anything similar on the internet. The reason I ask is that I can't seem to find a way to route them where they have enough slack to turn the bars from one side to the other, while not having so much slack that they fold/bind up and make the throttle harder to turn while turning the wheel.
Thanks!
-Matt
Wish I had a camera and I would snap some shots. They both essentially need to run back behind towards the ignition and around the neck at the peak of the frame. My throttle cables stay snug under the side of the radiator cap, and the clutch is on the other side as well. If I had a camera and didnt just put my fuel tank on I would take a picture for you.
Instead of starting another thread only an hour or so after making this one, I'll just ask my next question in here.
How tight should the bolts for the lifter plate (over the clutch/springs) be? I got them too tight the first time (so much that when I pulled the clutch lever, it had no effect since the plate was already pushed in all the way.) When I backed them out from being so tight, they felt insecure. So now I'm worried that if I go too tight my clutch will slip, and too loose and they'll fall out.
Any first hand experience with finding the sweet spot for them? My clymer's manual (I'll probably never buy another clymers now that I've had one) just says tighten them 'securely'.
Thanks!
-Matt
How tight should the bolts for the lifter plate (over the clutch/springs) be? I got them too tight the first time (so much that when I pulled the clutch lever, it had no effect since the plate was already pushed in all the way.) When I backed them out from being so tight, they felt insecure. So now I'm worried that if I go too tight my clutch will slip, and too loose and they'll fall out.
Any first hand experience with finding the sweet spot for them? My clymer's manual (I'll probably never buy another clymers now that I've had one) just says tighten them 'securely'.
Thanks!
-Matt
Looking at that picture, it looks like the cables AREN'T going around the stem, just around the forks. I'll just have to test both ways and see what fits best for me (I was trying to put them through the holes in the frame, no wonder it wouldn't work the first time.)
The lifter plate is inside the crankcase cover, it's what (by default, with the help of 4 springs) keeps pressure on the clutch plates unless the clutch lever is pulled, then it pushes the clutch plates apart enough for them to have room to spin freely. The bolts I'm talking about are the four that run through the lifter plate, through the springs, and into the rear portion of the clutch holder.

Needing some sort of tension spec for the bolt numbered 17, and the lifter plate is 14.
The lifter plate is inside the crankcase cover, it's what (by default, with the help of 4 springs) keeps pressure on the clutch plates unless the clutch lever is pulled, then it pushes the clutch plates apart enough for them to have room to spin freely. The bolts I'm talking about are the four that run through the lifter plate, through the springs, and into the rear portion of the clutch holder.

Needing some sort of tension spec for the bolt numbered 17, and the lifter plate is 14.
About the cables -
The holes in the frame are meant to line up with the 'tubes' on the top of your airbox, so nothing goes through there.
Look on page 216 of your Clymers and it shoes the airbox installed with (my guess) one throttle cable on each side of the stem and the radiator filler.
The clutch cable is so short, There's probably only one way it can go. Can't find any pictures right now, though.
The holes in the frame are meant to line up with the 'tubes' on the top of your airbox, so nothing goes through there.
Look on page 216 of your Clymers and it shoes the airbox installed with (my guess) one throttle cable on each side of the stem and the radiator filler.
The clutch cable is so short, There's probably only one way it can go. Can't find any pictures right now, though.
The Honda shop manual (Honda, not Clymer or Haynes) that I have doesn't give a torque. It just says "Tighten the bolts of the punch marks on the plate first, and then tighten the other bolts".



