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New member, sorry my first post is a request for information!

CBR 600F 1987 - 1990 CBR 600F Forum

New member, sorry my first post is a request for information!

  #1  
Old 10-06-2016, 11:13 AM
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Brief introduction; I currently ride an 09' Repsol and this is my 3rd sportbike. I live outside of Kansas City KS and am married with 6 kids between the wife and I (Brady family)!

Last weekend we got impulsive and bought her a 1990 CBR 600. The kid that sold it to us couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start, so we talked him down to $350. I did get it to crank after disassembling/cleaning the starter and popping the clutch to get it out of vapor lock. However the fuel pump is shot and our new one arrives Saturday.

In the meantime I am trying to figure out what the fuse order is on the fuse block located to the left of the handlebars. The top-most fuse (10 amp) pops EVERY TIME the ignition is turned on and I have no idea what it goes to. I believe there was originally a cover with a diagram but that is long gone.

Can anyone tell me what fuses are what so I know where to start looking for shorts from?
 
  #2  
Old 10-06-2016, 10:28 PM
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No takers?

Originally Posted by projo198 View Post
Brief introduction; I currently ride an 09' Repsol and this is my 3rd sportbike. I live outside of Kansas City KS and am married with 6 kids between the wife and I (Brady family)!

Last weekend we got impulsive and bought her a 1990 CBR 600. The kid that sold it to us couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start, so we talked him down to $350. I did get it to crank after disassembling/cleaning the starter and popping the clutch to get it out of vapor lock. However the fuel pump is shot and our new one arrives Saturday.

In the meantime I am trying to figure out what the fuse order is on the fuse block located to the left of the handlebars. The top-most fuse (10 amp) pops EVERY TIME the ignition is turned on and I have no idea what it goes to. I believe there was originally a cover with a diagram but that is long gone.

Can anyone tell me what fuses are what so I know where to start looking for shorts from?
 
  #3  
Old 10-07-2016, 12:44 PM
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Welcome.


Sorry haven't checked in for a while. There is a 10A fuse between the ignition switch and the starter button. This is a pretty simple circuit. You can get a manual if you look at the links at the top of the forum.


Popping this fuse indicates a short somewhere in the starting circuit, or something wired wrong. The back end of the circuit (hot wires from battery) is controlled by the 30A main fuse which is in the solenoid holder.


My guess is you have wires crossed or shorted from the ignition switch to the fuse block, from the fuse block to the start button or the ones that go back from there to the solenoid. Check the wires running back to the solenoid first. If someone worked on the wiring, it could be fun to figure out.
 
  #4  
Old 10-07-2016, 12:52 PM
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Gotcha thanks for posting! I think there has been some tomfoolery with the wiring because the bike still turns over without either of those fuses in place.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by dennisgb View Post
Welcome.


Sorry haven't checked in for a while. There is a 10A fuse between the ignition switch and the starter button. This is a pretty simple circuit. You can get a manual if you look at the links at the top of the forum.


Popping this fuse indicates a short somewhere in the starting circuit, or something wired wrong. The back end of the circuit (hot wires from battery) is controlled by the 30A main fuse which is in the solenoid holder.


My guess is you have wires crossed or shorted from the ignition switch to the fuse block, from the fuse block to the start button or the ones that go back from there to the solenoid. Check the wires running back to the solenoid first. If someone worked on the wiring, it could be fun to figure out.
 
  #5  
Old 10-07-2016, 06:30 PM
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Looking at the wiring diagram that fuse also powers the fuel pump. Since your having a problem with the fuel pump you need to track down what is up with the wiring.


Also it's not recommended to replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump (the cheap ones). Most of us replace the contact block on the back of the pump for about $30. This is the common fail point.
 
  #6  
Old 10-07-2016, 06:34 PM
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Gotcha, I will check into that. I'm actually sitting next to the bike now having just installed the new fuel pump and changing the oil. I got it to fire up and idle momentarily before dying, but the battery ran down before I could do much with it. I believe this bike sat for awhile, and the oil in it was very low and dirty. Like, maybe 2 quarts low.... Ugh.
Originally Posted by dennisgb View Post
Looking at the wiring diagram that fuse also powers the fuel pump. Since your having a problem with the fuel pump you need to track down what is up with the wiring.


Also it's not recommended to replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump (the cheap ones). Most of us replace the contact block on the back of the pump for about $30. This is the common fail point.
 
  #7  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:55 PM
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If it sat for a while you want to go thru all the fluids and change the oil and filter.


You need to take the air box off and check in there. Rodents go in through the air tubes in the front and will chew up the filter.


You don't want to start it until you check that. Stuff will get sucked into the engine.


Also if it sat the carbs will likely need to be cleaned. The pilot (idle) jets plug very easily...they are very small. The choke circuit gets gummed up also. They are impossible to start and keep running if the carbs are dirty.


Tank should be flushed out also to get slime from old gas out.
 
  #8  
Old 10-11-2016, 12:59 PM
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Oh yeah I took apart the airbox as soon as I got the bike. There was no air filter, just a wad of paper towel like material. Took apart the carbs over the weekend and they actually looked really good inside. The carb holders were brittle and split though (rubber seals between the carbs and motor). I have to replace those, they cost about 30 bucks. I was going to cheat and use rubber vacuum hose but since it's all taken apart I may as well replace them now.
Originally Posted by dennisgb View Post
If it sat for a while you want to go thru all the fluids and change the oil and filter.


You need to take the air box off and check in there. Rodents go in through the air tubes in the front and will chew up the filter.


You don't want to start it until you check that. Stuff will get sucked into the engine.


Also if it sat the carbs will likely need to be cleaned. The pilot (idle) jets plug very easily...they are very small. The choke circuit gets gummed up also. They are impossible to start and keep running if the carbs are dirty.


Tank should be flushed out also to get slime from old gas out.
 
  #9  
Old 10-11-2016, 01:18 PM
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I also rode it for the first time last week after the oil change. It idles horribly but actually rode well for the short time I was on it.
Originally Posted by dennisgb View Post
If it sat for a while you want to go thru all the fluids and change the oil and filter.


You need to take the air box off and check in there. Rodents go in through the air tubes in the front and will chew up the filter.


You don't want to start it until you check that. Stuff will get sucked into the engine.


Also if it sat the carbs will likely need to be cleaned. The pilot (idle) jets plug very easily...they are very small. The choke circuit gets gummed up also. They are impossible to start and keep running if the carbs are dirty.


Tank should be flushed out also to get slime from old gas out.
Originally Posted by projo198 View Post
Oh yeah I took apart the airbox as soon as I got the bike. There was no air filter, just a wad of paper towel like material. Took apart the carbs over the weekend and they actually looked really good inside. The carb holders were brittle and split though (rubber seals between the carbs and motor). I have to replace those, they cost about 30 bucks. I was going to cheat and use rubber vacuum hose but since it's all taken apart I may as well replace them now.
 
  #10  
Old 10-12-2016, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by projo198 View Post
Oh yeah I took apart the airbox as soon as I got the bike. There was no air filter, just a wad of paper towel like material. Took apart the carbs over the weekend and they actually looked really good inside. The carb holders were brittle and split though (rubber seals between the carbs and motor). I have to replace those, they cost about 30 bucks. I was going to cheat and use rubber vacuum hose but since it's all taken apart I may as well replace them now.
Good thing you bought new intake boots.


You don't want to try and make anything for this because the boots set the position of the carbs. Impossible to get them back on with something that might flex and then the air box may not fit right also. Not to mention fuel resistance.


Hard and brittle ones usually will leak vacuum and then the bike will not run right. I just had one like this and the throttle was all over the place.


Make sure you go thru the carbs completely and make sure they are clean even if they look good. If it idles bad the pilot (idle) jets are likely plugged.
 

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