I just bought my hurricane today 1990, pretty exciting, this would be my 2nd bike, this is a down grade from what i had before. I drove about 1 1/2 hours to go get it and shoved it in the back of my parents mini van(yea i know, it actually fit). The plastics were junk so I just tore them all off, took off the rear passenger pegs to clean it up, I'm going to street fighter it, but i really want to put f4i fairings on it. I had an extra r1 race fairing and i just shoved it on to see what it would look like and it looks pretty neat actually. Continuing, I just need to reroute the front radiator peice(i don't know what it is) to make it shorter and make a bracket underneath the bigger radiator to clean it up and shorten all the wires from the fuse box. What the bike needs is a new damn exhaust system, i shoved an r6 exhaust on it but it obviously doesnt fit(Where can i buy an aftermarket one, i've seen someone put a micron exhaust on and i really liked it). It needs a new brake bracket and rear pads also. It needs a new rear tire(whats the biggest without over doing it size i can get, Can i get pilot powers for them?). It needs a new clutch lever,grips,and bar ends. I also need to know where i can get a good digital gauge. Did someone put a gixxer speedo on this before?) Lastly but not least, i need to get the damn thing running, he just rebuilt the carbs last year but it needs cleaning and needs to be sync(i think thats how you spell it). He said something about the float or something, i couldn't understand the kid. I'll post pictures later of how it looks but its just naked. Like any other naked f1? Can anybody tell me the difference between the f1 frame and the f2 or f3 frames? Thanks!

 

1. the other radiator piece is the oil cooler if i understand your description correctly.

2. a few guys are running vance & hines or d&d.

3. 150 is the "safe" limit. i'm not sure if pilot powers are made in that size.

4. veypor gauge. google and look for dealer.

5. maybe the carbs need floats adjusted and then resynced.

6. f2 is same as f3. f2/f3 frames have different engine mount points than f1. different shock mount area, different shock mount point. actually, completely different since f2/f3 was a complete redesign from f1. and main difference between f2 and f3 was suspension and engine.

 

he did mention something about the floats, is it hard to do or expensive to adjust them? Will it still run if it isn't synced?
It did almost fire today, i used starting fluid and sprayed it into the carbs
maybe i just need to pull them off and clean it up in there, the throttle is sticky anyway.
Any other suggestions i can do so i can fire this baby up?
Is there a kit to shorten up the wires or is it all cutting and reconnecting?
Thanks for all the info! I just wish there were more people on here.
Can anybody make a custom belly pan? or should i just hack up a 600rr's?

 

pull the rack of carbs off, flip them over and open up the bottom of each carb. there you will see the float. get a manual or download itfor float height adjustment parameters. not a hard thing to do but if you have the rack off, might as well do some other carb related stuff.

bike will run if carbs are not synced, just won't run optimally.

no kit, just cut and splice.

there are plenty of people on here, just haven't gotten around to answering your questions.

custom is pretty much anything you can do to make something fit on the bike even if it means hacking up something from some other thing.

 

Thanks for the info, i found the manual online, but i can't find the float height and how to adjust it?
i never worked with carbs before and I've always had FI bikes.

 

Float height is a little bit hard to measure. What you really should do is take the carbs off the bike and take all the float bowls off and just check out the basic condition of the carbs.

Pull the pin on all the floats and carefully pull them out. Take the float needle off and put aside.

Float height for a 1990 is 9mm if I remember right, but a good way to "eyeball" it is to look at the float from the side. If the metal tab is basically parallel with the plastic part of the side of the float, its probably fine.

While you have the floats out, get a small bowl of GASOLINE and put the float in there. Both sides of it should FLOAT. They get little tiny cracks in them and if they don't float in gas, they won't work at all and you'll have gasoline everywhere.

And, while you've got it all apart, CLEAN EVERYTHING. Make sure the jets aren't so dirty the hole is completely plugged. There's 10 little holes in the side of the main jet holder, and 8 little holes in the side of the pilot jet. They all need to be clean. Also, you need to be able to see through both the main jet and the pilot jet.

90% of the poor running problems for these bikes is dirty carbs.

 

carbs are clean, i just started the bike and it runs, but it's blowin white smoke like crazy and when i try to rev it, it wants to die, my father says it's because it's running rich. I probably need to get it synced i'm sure. Also, has anybody done the f4i conversion on these bikes?
I'm also trying to shorten my oil cooler lines so i can mount it with a custom bracket underneath my radiator, how do i shorten them or is there another place i can mount them so i can clean up the front of the bike to make it a street fighter.
Thanks for all the help. I appreciate it!

 

what f4i conversion?

as for shortening the lines, don't bother unless you have new connectors you can recrimp. you'll have to get creative as far as places to mount the oil cooler.

 

If you're running too rich, then YES it could be a sticky float, or one with a crack in it. You could also check your mixture screws and see where they're set. Did you see if the floats actually FLOAT?

 

is it that big rubber peice with the needle? i hate pulling off the carbs, such a pain, i dont have any gas yet to test it in but i will in the near future..Thanks for all the help. Where are the mixture screws?