i'm not concerned with removing the caps if i dont have to, i just want to know they're all adjusted properly. at first i was under the impression that the screws were not readily accessible. not sure what happened with the one on the far right, but it looks like the cap is missing, but i should still be able to adjust it. any ideas? it's not something that will bother me as long as it is functional and set properly. on a side note, unless i'm misinformed, why would the factory cap off the pilot screw (to omit adjustability) and make the cap slotted?

tripicana i do not have a multimeter but i can borrow one, i will try this tomorrow on my day off, thanks for the input, i will let you guys know how everything goes tomrorow.

 

reason being so you can still adjust with the float bowls off.

 

i see. there's a lot of misleading information out there about the pilot screws...lol. with the kerker slip on and midpipe, and a uni air filter, what do you recommend i set my pilots at?

 

ok, the picture really doesn't do it's justice because in reality it looks like the cap got rounded and broke off, and there's no groove left in the remaining screw. i don't even want to attempt adjusting it but if this is the case then it's probably why the bike is running how it is. i could probably back it out but where could i get a new one? is this part no. 583411 on bikebandit? all the other ones look fine.

 

update: got the new filter in, the bog is practically gone once the bike warms up. i think its a matter of setting my screws properly at this point, and i have a carb sync in the mail. i'm still in need of a replacement pilot screw, if anybody has one, it appears they are on backorder at bikebandit and everywhere else, but i only need one.

when i first put it in it didn't want to start at all, until i took the cover off the air box. i may have to drill some holes in it or something. once the bike was warm i put the lid back on and it ran like it's supposed to. kind of frustrating but at this point i think i can get it registered and take it for some test drives.

 

When you say it wouldn't start, was that with the choke on or off?

Don't drill holes in the airbox. It should start with full or close to full choke when cold. If it won't, drilling holes isn't the right solution. If it starts without choke when completely cold, you are way too rich.

My pilot screws do not have caps on them., the ends are basically a cross (the 2 slots run from edge to edge like a standard slotted screw but with 2 slots). On an old set of carbs I have one of the screws has 3 of the 4 quarters of the cross missing (it looks like they broke off) Could this be what you are looking at on yours?

Just an aside - when you have drained the fuel out of the carb bowls it takes a while to start the bike (until the bowls fill up).

Good luck.

KongBastard

 

kongbastard, it wouldn't start with the choke on all the way, and lid on. in fear of flooding it as bad as it was last time, i took the lid and filter off...still didn't want to start. i tried on, off and between, but i began with full choke on, maybe it was flooded from the beginning(turning it over for quite a few seconds with full choke on)?
at this point i began to pull plugs. i started with 2 plugs on the left side, and as i suspected they were coated in gas. with those 2 plugs out i bumped it over to check them and the bike actually wanted to run....go figure. so once i put them back in it fired right up..(choke off) and then once it warmed up i put the filter and lid back on and it started running much better. (no more 5k bog)

and on the pilot screw, i wish i could have gotten a better pic. but referring back to the picture, the screw looks like it had a single flathead slot but the right side "wall" of the slot looks like it was basically twisted off from the body of the screw. the picture makes it look like you could still carefully adjust it with a screwdriver but in reality you really cant. the only thing i could think of was to back it out with a pair of pliers and then see about finding one in a boneyard, because service honda wants over $20 for this 1 screw!

 

you shouldnt need to choke the bike in the middle of a summers day, and if you do it should only be half. I have 2 parts racks of carbs at home, im sure that theres some good pilot screws in there, i will check on tuesday when i am there and if I have some I will throw a few pilots in the mail if you want to pm me your address.

As far as drilling holes goes, only do so if instructed to by your jet kit.

 

tds94probe, on the pilot screws, that would be greatly appreciated! pm sent your way. and thanks for the input on the choke, this could very well be why its been starting hard. just about every other toy i have/had wouldn't ever start cold without choke on all the way, haha...this one is most picky. we're getting into the 60s and even 50s up here, so at the least, i'd like to have her all ready for next spring.

 

oh but i forgot to mention. this all started when a friend of mine came over to check out the new ride, and he decides to take the liberty of trying to 'fire her up' without any choke. i'm not sure if the battery was too weak (it certainly wasn't too weak to turn the motor over) but this was the first time the bike started hard for me. i had to get on it and play with the throttle and choke to get it to start, and ever since then it's been tempermental.