My new 89 CBR 600 F
#1
My new 89 CBR 600 F
Well I just went and pick up a 89 CBR 600 F today for $600.00 It needs some work but it runs good. I do have to put in a new Voltage Regulator in to it and the body is going to need some paint and probably a new front facial fairing. I am also going to need some screws for the fairings. The bike did not have any screws for the fairings when i got it. Also I am going to need the center stand that is underneith the middle of the bike(not the side stand).
I will post some more pictures later on after I take more tomorrow.
I will post some more pictures later on after I take more tomorrow.
#2
#4
RE: My new 89 CBR 600 F
good deal, for $600 bucks. im not 100% on this about all the F1's but i know for sure 87 DID NOT have a center stand. i realize it appers to have a place for it to be bolted up by the headers, but my manual says it doesnt have one, but like i said, that may not be for 89 like yours.
#6
RE: My new 89 CBR 600 F
87-90 never came with centerstand and none is available.
chain is checked using indicator on left side chain adjuster. it is a sticker with a green zone. if main line is past green zone, chain need to be changed, if sticker is missing, then check by seeing how tight or slack the chain is in sections.
rotate rear wheel in quarter increments and feel the chain links. some will be tighter than others. the more tight links you have the more worn the chain is. a good chain cleaning will loosen some up, but others will not improve.
to adjust chain slack, find midpoint of bottom loop of chain, push up. there should be between 5/8" and 1" of vertical travel. any more than that and chain needs to be tightened. adjust chain adjustment nut a quarter turn at a time as it goes a long way. do both sides at once. check slack, if still too much repeat quarter turn on both sides. check straightness by rotating rear wheel. listen to any sounds made by the rear disk scraping the rear pads. disk should rotate or float freely between the pads.
check sprocket teeth when changing chain as a new chain will tend to wear out faster with worn out sprockets.
chain is checked using indicator on left side chain adjuster. it is a sticker with a green zone. if main line is past green zone, chain need to be changed, if sticker is missing, then check by seeing how tight or slack the chain is in sections.
rotate rear wheel in quarter increments and feel the chain links. some will be tighter than others. the more tight links you have the more worn the chain is. a good chain cleaning will loosen some up, but others will not improve.
to adjust chain slack, find midpoint of bottom loop of chain, push up. there should be between 5/8" and 1" of vertical travel. any more than that and chain needs to be tightened. adjust chain adjustment nut a quarter turn at a time as it goes a long way. do both sides at once. check slack, if still too much repeat quarter turn on both sides. check straightness by rotating rear wheel. listen to any sounds made by the rear disk scraping the rear pads. disk should rotate or float freely between the pads.
check sprocket teeth when changing chain as a new chain will tend to wear out faster with worn out sprockets.
#7