Update for those following .. A buddy of mine gave me what he didn't use from his cbr1000 dynojet kit.. Basically everything apart from the 124 dyno jets. The needle on the cbr600 kit is dw108 and the one in this kit is dw110 so not perfect but it is adjustable. I followed the guide to installing the 600cc kit and used the full stage 2 jets which are dj120's .. By eye they are pretty much the same size as the ones I had in there, maybe they were drilled? Anyway jets and needles installed and also set idle mixes as per instruction.. All back together and no bowl leaks which is a first! She started once the carbs were primed and man she sounded strong!! Idle is as smooth as an other I've seen on YouTube and then.... It started raining hard so I could test it on the road yet (bald tires not v safe).. So the only other way I could think to test it was to light up the rear wheel as the tyre is junk anyway. It span the wheel with 0 effort down to almost idle revs then I pinned it (engine was warm I'm not a barbarian) and within a split second it was at max revs or close.. It never did that before. So as it stands the bike seems to run well.. Just need the road to dry up so I can get these butterflies out my stomache!!

Small note as well, I always prime the carbs on the bench to check for leaks and stuck floats, hydroclocking isn't fun. And I needed to get some fuel out the tank, so got a bottle under the petcock and turned it to reserve which is where I've done all my previous road testing... It trickled out! I don't think the pump could be pulling much more than was coming out, switched to "on" and it poured out as it should ( this Is a BRAND new tap).. So now I know I need to run it at the "on" position to give t a fair chance!

Will report back when i get my *** on the saddle

 

Sorry for the spelling mistakes, I'm writing on my phone with dirty hands and autospell isn't v clever

 

Always run any tests with full tank with petcock in the "on" position.

The Dyno Jet numbering system is different. There is a comparison chart on the web if you do a search. 120 is close to stock 108 if I remember correctly. Did you compare the needles closely. I would bet they are different. What clip position did you use?

Get some decent tires on your bike. It's the number one most important thing next to brakes. Running fast when testing on bald tires is insane. Sorry.

 

Only the front is baldish.. Just on the legal limit, but to me that's bald and for dry only, my tests have all been in the road next to my house, nice and quiet. Rear is an almost new pilot sport 2 but it has some sort of lump so to me it's junk. I've been riding big bikes for 15 years so I know all about the importance of decent tires ..

Regarding the sizes, I have been using jets r us as they are well recommended by you fine people :

http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_mikuni_vs_dynojet_vs_keihin_sizes.htm

A 120 DJ is equal to 128 keihin.. The jets I had in there were actually 107.5, and mikuni are the only brand that have this size (I've got some mikuni jets off my old bandit 1200 and they fit fine thread wise) So I think I had equal to 120 keihin in there, and I'm up to 128.

The DJ needles are not different at the fat end, but after half way down they taper a little more aggressively than the stock ones, this is exactly what I was after! Tomorrow morning can't come quick enough for a test ride!

 

Sorry I was thinking Mikuni. They are smaller number compared to DJ. I tune a lot of different bikes and am old so sometimes recollection is not good. I always look the specs up for a given bike.

The taper on the DJ needles is what you need. Once you feel comfortable get the bike on a dyno because the larger jets might be too rich. It won't hurt anything if it runs good but you may have plugs fouling.

 

Yeah for sure.. I didn't wanna throw money at it until I knew the motor was strong.. Once I get it running smoothly, I'll dial it in on a dyno and begin the mods starting with a sticky front tire!

While I had the carbs on the bench and was just opening one bowl at a time changing and cleaning jets, I realised how fun it actually is and even relaxing! Starting to love carbs now I'm totally at ease in the mechanics begind them!

 

Went out for a ride. Good weather, not cold and sun was out.. Let her warm up a bit and went out slow.. Then rolled on the throttle gently and halfway up the rev range it started breaking up as usual and won't let me get past that amount of revs.. Don't matter if I've got the throttle wide open or just rolling it on very gently! On one attempt to roll through this flat spot something happened like a switch and it there was a bit of a pop and the back end lit up! It felt like a the slides where stuck and then unstuck, but I've watched them with the air filter off and they all move at the same time and with no sticking. When I put the new needles in the slides dropped in with 0 resistance.

I'm feeling like this isn't carbs now. It "feels" electrical the more I try it.. Like a couple of ht leads were pulled out.. The way it just kicked into life and shot off during the last attempt was on/off. I can't see carbs causing this level of misfire/popping at exactly the same rpm at full throttle or downhill at 5-10% throttle. If anything she should be super rich now like you mentioned.

Electrical wise I have put new sparkies in and checked all fuses etc. I really value your opinion/advice! Im not new to bikes/mechanics but this is getting to me now.. Do you think I should start looking at electrical?

 

Went to check the coils but they are so deep into the bike I didn't have time. So I unplugged the cdi to check for rotten plugs or something but all is like new... Plugged it back in and went to start it and now its running on 2 or 3 cylinders and giving the odd pop and hiss from the exhaust and airbox.. What have I discovered?? Faulty coil or timing pickup sensor?

 

Anytime you do something and it changes drastically you need to go back and look at your work. Did you get everything plugged in tight and properly? If so check all the wire bundles to see if you can find an area where they rubbed on something. In the case of the CDI this will mean most of the harness needs to be checked. In my experience coils don't just crap out like that unless you powered the system up with something plugged in wrong or unplugged. The pickup coil is inside the engine...not sure why you would think that went bad from inspecting the plugs on the CDI.

 

I didnt know there was something called a pickup coil until i started researching what might be happening, i presumed the sensor was a hall affect sensor. By coils i meant high voltage coils. Im thinking that one of them was always badish and this has been the problem all along, no matter if i block almost all the holes in the airbox, or run with all the holes open it makes absolutely no change what so ever to the problem.

Now when you say look back at your work, i may have missed some important info.... When i took the cdi off, i used the block connectors on the harness in an attempt to get resistance readings from the coils, but i don think this was a good test and need to remove them properly to get a good reading. I did wiggle on the coils around a bit to see how it was bolted in. The CDI for sure was put back and all the plugs nice and tight. The next time i get a few hours on it ill take off both coils and test them properly, also will get the R/R out and test that. The other thing i was reading was a faulty (on a surprising number of forums) sidestand switch can cause a cut out at a certain rpm, so i will also bypass this for now... along them lines, if all i did was prod the HT leads and connecting pins (+/-) on one coil and now it seemingly firing on 1 coil, maybe vibration at 5k rpm did the same thing (exposing a weak connection), and over 5k where the vibration was a diff frequency it worked better.. Thinking (hoping) out loud here.

Cheers!