A little bit of gurgling is ok. But if it's banging then my educated guess is that you need to clean your carberators or richen up your pilots if you already did.

 

i havn't richened up my pilots yet. Someone said something about adding a couple small washers to shim out the "needles". Not exactly sure what to do.

someone said this on another forum

"assuming the Cane carbs r anything like the later models, tuning the midrangeshould bequite ez. there is a cap on the top of the carb, its black on later models. underneath is a spring, a slide, a rubber diaphram, and a needle. simply put, the rubber diaphram uses engine vacumn to overcome the spring, which then lifts the needle out of its hole and releases more fuel. the slide is also pulled up, allowing more air to enter. so, if u put one or two tiny washers underneath the cap on top of the needle, the needle will essentially be spaced upwards. since the needle is tapered to the tip, this will increase the overall amount of fuel that is released at all times. since the slide position is unaffected, youre therefore richening the mixture."[align=left] [/align]

 

get the longest, skinniest flathead screwdriver you can get from the hardware store, and turn your pilot screws CCW a half a turn and go ride.

You can do this in the time it takes you to take out 1 SPARK PLUG. I'm not sure why you haven't tried it yet.

That other forum post you copied was right on. Dynojet and Factory Pro slide needles actually have little clips in them, so you can raise and lower the needle position to get the same effect as washers. If you have stock needles, you could use washers like the guy said. BUT WHY BOTHER WITH THAT, if you haven't even laid a hand on your idle mixture screws yet?

Good luck!

 

Backfiring on deceleration has nothing to do with your needles. It is your pilots!! When you are decelerating the only jets feeding your engine are the pilots. Adjust your pilots!! BUT if you haven't tryed cleaning them yet, do that first.

 

How should I go about cleaning them? pull the gas tank and airbox off, and spray the sh*t out of them w/ carb cleaner? or do I have to take them off?
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You should take them off because then you have access to all the jets by taking off the bowls.

 

+1, take off the tank and the whole airbox assembly. Unclamp the choke cable from the carb and get it off. Take the fuel line off.
then loosen up the four phillips screws that clamp the rubbery manifolds to the carbs. then pull the whole carb assembly off.If you haven't had it off before, it might be a b**ch to get off; but that's ok.

You DON'T have to take the throttle cables off, if you're careful. You can just turn the carb assembly upside down. But, if you're feelin good, go ahead and take the throttle cables off the carb as well; then you can take it away and put it on a bench.

At this point maybe get four cups or little bowls or something to put your parts in.
Take off all for float bowls and don't lose any gaskets or screws. Take out the floats, float pin, and float needle. The pilot jet is the smaller one off to the side, not the big one in the middle. But if you're going through all this you might as well clean the crap out of everything.

Unscrew the pilot jet and pull it out, and clean the crap out of it. You should be able to see through it, and the 8 holes on the side of it should be clear as well. Little tiny guitar strings work well for cleaning this stuff.

You can take out the main jet holder with a little wrench and clean it the same way. There's 10 little holes down the length of it, similar to the pilot jet.

Clean out all the crap you see, and get it all back together, cleaning up everything as you go.

While you have easy access to the pilot screws, turn them in all the way until they seat lightly. Count the number of turns. Then, back them back out and go an extra 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

Get it all back together and put the carb assembly back on the bike. Put a little motor oil on the rubber manifold pieces to make it easier to get the carb seated in there. Again, if you haven't done it much, it's a BITCH. But it gets easier every time.


So anyway, what's the point of all this? Shooting a whole can of carb cleaner into your rig doesn't qualify as CLEANING your carbs. Once you see it, you realize how TINY all those little holes are, and (like I said on the first page) 90% of the failure of these bikes to run well is DIRTY CARBS.

And besides, knowing how it all works will give you a lot more confidence about what's going on with the bike. And then, you can move on to adjusting your main jet needle heights, or sizes, or whatever.

Good luck!

Sorry if I repeated a bunch of stuff you already know. Just trying to cover all the bases.

 

i can't find the pilot screws for the inside carbs anywhere! i on the outside carbs (number 1 and number 4) i turned it out half a turn. I can't find the freakin inside ones! i have the manual, the picture is hard to see, and it sucks...help
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When you're on the LEFT side of the bike, the screws for the #1 and the #3 carb are in identical spots. So look at #1 and the screw for #3 is in the exact same place. That's why you need the REALLY LONG screwdriver.

Same thing for the #4 and the #2, so look at where the #4 screw is and the #2 is in the exact same spot 2 carbs over.

You're almost there! Well, maybe.

 

So I turned all for carbs half a screw out, and it definitly doesn't idle very good. it'll be idling fine, then every 10-15 seconds, have a hicup. also i went and ripped on it with a friend driving behind me and he said when i get on it, black stuff doesn't come out the muffler, which I assume it should if i'm wide open. he said it smelled weird, almost like he could tell it was running lean. When i let off after getting on it, it still shoots out a big blue flame when i look back. gurgle gurgle, POP! like that on decel.
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