how the heck do you lower the front suspension?
#1
how the heck do you lower the front suspension?
hey guys, im pretty new to sportbikes still and need some help.
ive been searching this forum for over an hour and can find NO instructions.
if someone could please give me a quick step by step on how to lower the front forks, that would be MUCH appreciated!
thanks
-gabe
ive been searching this forum for over an hour and can find NO instructions.
if someone could please give me a quick step by step on how to lower the front forks, that would be MUCH appreciated!
thanks
-gabe
#2
Well there are a couple different ways I guess you could do it. you couple buy some different springs that would lower it or you could loosen the triple tree bolts on the side of the fork with the bike properly suspended and lower it that way to you liking but just so you know it is going to affect the handling of the bike a bit
#3
#4
if you look at where you clipon are located and you see the forks and your steering stem(where the frame and steering connect) there should be two bolts on the top of the triple tree and two bolts on the bottom on each fork. whether or not you have to remove any plastics i doubt it. When I get home I will take pics of my bike(even though it is a cbr1000f) they have pretty much the same design
#9
The bolts to be loosened are the pinch-bolts on the tripple tree.
If you look at the tubes you will see the two sets (one high, one low)
that clamp around the fork tubes.
I wouldn't lower in more than 1/2 inch increments,
with a test drive in between, to verify it doesn't quicken the steering into an instable
condition. As you lower it, the rake/trail will be reduced, causing it to respond faster
to any input. If you go too far, the bike will be too 'twitchy' and dangerous to handle.
As mentioned, be sure to support the bike. Otherwise, the bike will fall to it's knees,
when you loosen the last bolt. The best option is to use a floor jack.
That will allow you to more easily adjust the height.
After making the height adjustment, tighten the TOP two bolts first.
Then get on the bike, grab the front brakes and pump the forks a couple of times.
Have a buddy standing in front, to eye-ball the tire. When he indicates that the front tire
is in straight alignment with the bike's front-rear axis, check the bars for alignment.
If everything looks good, tighten the bottom bolts.
If not have him hold the tire, while you tweak the bars. Then pump it again,
check it again. Do this till it all looks good. Test ride it to confirm that it is
tracking straight, re-adjust if needed.
I would recommend doing this with the fairings pulled. It's not absolutely needed,
but it makes access and verification of re-alignment a lot easier.
Hope this helps, Ern
If you look at the tubes you will see the two sets (one high, one low)
that clamp around the fork tubes.
I wouldn't lower in more than 1/2 inch increments,
with a test drive in between, to verify it doesn't quicken the steering into an instable
condition. As you lower it, the rake/trail will be reduced, causing it to respond faster
to any input. If you go too far, the bike will be too 'twitchy' and dangerous to handle.
As mentioned, be sure to support the bike. Otherwise, the bike will fall to it's knees,
when you loosen the last bolt. The best option is to use a floor jack.
That will allow you to more easily adjust the height.
After making the height adjustment, tighten the TOP two bolts first.
Then get on the bike, grab the front brakes and pump the forks a couple of times.
Have a buddy standing in front, to eye-ball the tire. When he indicates that the front tire
is in straight alignment with the bike's front-rear axis, check the bars for alignment.
If everything looks good, tighten the bottom bolts.
If not have him hold the tire, while you tweak the bars. Then pump it again,
check it again. Do this till it all looks good. Test ride it to confirm that it is
tracking straight, re-adjust if needed.
I would recommend doing this with the fairings pulled. It's not absolutely needed,
but it makes access and verification of re-alignment a lot easier.
Hope this helps, Ern
Last edited by MadHattr059; 05-27-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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