Well my cane needs some help. 2 of my cylinders arnt getting as hot as they should be. Cylinder 1&3 are colder than 2&4 which rules out spark plug wires and coil problems. compression seems good still able to pick the bike up very easy and doesnt seem to spit and sputter. at cruise it def has a different sound than when you are on it. it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders when you are just cruising and when you go all out it clears out and takes off. without a muffler it definatly sounds like a v-rod motor. the only thing i can think of would be either valves specs not correct or carbs out of sync. i know i need to sync the carbs but what do you guys think about this problem. thanks for your time.

 

even if the valves are out of spec, it would not cause hot and cold cylinders. did you check your plugs to see what they look like. does it look like a lean or rich condition. from that you can tell if they are getting fuel. if you have good spark, then i would check carbs or at least do the sync and go from there.

when you say "clears out" it sounds like fuel delivery. like the jets are delivering fuel only when air pressure becomes greater in the intake tract.

 

are the stock needle jets and the aftermarket needle jets the same in diameter or are they different to add more fuel. this bike does have different needle jets (dynotune i believe) set at the regular notch could that be causing to much fuel to enter the chambers?

 

Remember - the main jets don't really matter until about 6-7k RPM. So, if your bike is kinda sputtery from idle up to 6k but fine above that, maybe there's an issue with your idle jets, floats, float needles, or seats. The main jets and jet needles are probably fine.

I'd suggest you get into the carbs and remove the idle jets and make sure the main hole in the middle of each jet is clear and the 4 holes on the other side of the jet are clear. If you get a high E guitar string (.010 or so) to run through the holes it's easier to make sure they're clear. Since the holes in the idle circuit are so much smaller, it's easier for them to get clogged.

Also, make sure all of your floats float in a bowl of gas. Sometimes a float will get a little tiny crack in it and not "float" as well as the others. Check the tab that holds the float needles and make sure they're all about the same height. (Dynojet kits tell you to make the float height about 6mm, stock is around 8 or 9.)

When you get it all back together, before you put the bowls back on, move the carb so the floats dangle and make sure they all move smoothly. Then hold it so the floats all go down and the needles seat. Blow into the fuel inlet and you shouldn't be able to hear ANY air escaping through the circuit.

That's about half of the things to check with the idle circuit. Anyway, if you already knew all that, sorry. Just tryin to think of everything.

EDIT: as for your question about main jet size, stock main jets are 105. Dynojet kits usually give you a 114 or 116 and a 120. If you do get into your carbs, you can just look on the side or top of the main jet and it will be stamped in there what size it is.

 

ok the carb setups are my pilot jets are stock with stock main jets went to gatto's and picked up new jets when i realized i had a jet kit in it. pilot needles are 2 1/2 turns out(should the pilot needles be kinda loose or firm in the housing?). i need to sync the carbs (missing the sync springs and having a hard time getting new ones i guess i need to mic and cut new ones.) my needle jets are aftermarket with height adjusters, and the slides are drilled 1/8th of an inch (going off sight.) anytime i go full throttle it runs perfect. at idle and part throttle you can hear something is not right. could it be a ignition problem

 

Out of sync carbscould make some cylinders run warmer thanothers, sync the carbs and I'll bet it evens out...

2-1/2 -3 turns out on the air screws sounds about right. And yes these screws will get sloppy in the seat if you don't get the rebuild kit.

I have always run 3 turns out on the air screws per my local Master Honda mechanic's advice.

I am a cheep bastard and the Honda air screws kits ( air screw, washer, spring and O ring) run about $12.00 per carb so once I get the screws where I want them I put one drop of super glue on each screwonthe threads at the carb body, this helps to keep them from coming out on the road!

You mentioned sync springs?? I am confused, do you mean the small springs in betweeneach carb? or the air screw springs?

I have all of those springs, drop me a PM.

 

It'll be pretty much impossible for you to sync your carbs well without those springs.
16029-MN4-003

Should be 8 or 9 bucks from servicehonda.com, and you need 3. or maybe SIRR1 is your new best buddy.