haha, go figure I was the last to comment how I needed to look into it. ah, me so forgetful. thanks for the link dalex, I am going to look at my spare carbs when I go home now.

 

After I reassembled the bike and started it up again, the bike immediately revved up to about a 6-7K rpm idle. I turned the idle screw way out until it was back to 1500 rpm. I'm wondering if this had something to do with the terrible fuel mileage, the fact that it was basically at 1/8 throttle all the time before. Incidentally, since turning the idle screw back out, the throttle no longer has any free play. Is this good? I'm used to having about 15 degrees of turn in the throttle before the engine starts to respond, but maybe that wasn't normal. I guess it feels kind of unsafe to have the engine respond with the slightest bit of twist, like i'm not going to be able to close the throttle all the way for some reason.

 

the idle screw should not have affected how much play you have, this is adjusted by the throttle cables. and yes, you should have a little bit of play before the bike responds.

 

You can adjust the throttle cable at the carbs to give yourself back the 'slack' you previously had. When you put it back together, you just tightened it more than it was when you took it apart.

 

So, did anyone figure out what those tubes were for? I am thinking maybe they are used to synchronize the carbs, the vacuum nipples. Can anyone correct me if I am wrong? I need to sync my carbs anyhow and need to know where to hook up the vacuum tubes.

 

The vacuum tubes hook up on the cylinder head itself (not on the carbs), right past the intake boots, positioned at a 45degree angle towards the outside. It take a phillips head screwdriver to remove the plugs.

 

Can you show me where on one of these pics?

 

Not easily visible on these pictures but if you look where the arrows point, you can't miss them. They're right under the black rubber boots, actually on the valve head intakes (not cylinder head like indicated in my previous post)










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It looks like a plain-ol' phillips head screw; you take it out, and then you need to screw in the brass fittings that (hopefully) come with your carb-sync kit. Just like dalex said, right on the engine side of the rubber manifolds. The 1-2 face left, the 3-4 face right.

 

Thanks, thats what I wanted to know. That's enough for me to go look at my spare engine so I know for sure.

Anyone have a good tool thats less expensive than the Morgan Carbtune? I'll probably end up getting that one unless I can find a cheaper efficient one. I read an article or two on making one, but they didnt have pictures so it was hard to follow.