did the YouTube link work?

I'm going to examine the chain guides closer and check the intake valves. But the compression seamed to make it look like a valve was not sticking.

 

Your video comes over clear enough. I think the cam chain is too loose - almost seems like the front or rear guide is not in place, or the hydraulic tensioner pre-tensioning spring is missing, or you have an aftermarket manual tensioner and the bolt is backed off too far. (I assume also you have removed the top guide to make it easier to see the looseness - if the top guide isn't there, maybe the chain is flapping against the valve cover - hence knocking noise only when the valve cover is in place). Sorry if this seems obvious - you have probably checked all that side of things anyway.

With the chain that loose I think it would be hard to check the valve clearances accurately.

The front guide should have a curve in it, like "J". I accidentally straightened one out when setting up the cams (because I let the loose cam chain get doubled over inside the front guide and when I barred the engine over, it forced the chain against the guide bending it and also broke the lugs at the top of the guide). I had to get info from Michigan_313 so I could bend it back to the right shape and glue the broken lugs back on (still working well!). See https://cbrforum.com/m_439208/tm.htm for pix of good and bad guides - hope this helps or at least eliminates one potential cause.

 

I was just out there looking at it again. I used the stethoscope as I turned the crank. The noise is the loudest coming off the cam sprocket. Makes me think it has something to do with that chain. Im having problems seeing down into the motor with it in the bike. I’m going to take a break for a while. Maybe look at it again this weekend.

I just don't want to have to unbolt the head again to make sure the front chain guide is correct. I don't like reusing a head gasket and a new one with shipping will be about $50.

I do have an aftermarket CCT. I had all chain guides installed and the chain adjusted correctly when I first put it back together and the tapping/knocking was bad. Like I was saying before, it sounded like the CCT was not installed. When it was still assembled, I tried tightening up the CCT to see if the noise would go away and it wouldn't go away. I still think it may have something to do withone of thechain guides.

I have the Manual CCT backed all the wayout right now.

On the valve clearance, from what I saw, as long as the lobes are not close to touching you should be able to get an accurate clearance. I feel pretty comfortable with that part of it.

Thanks you guys for your time. Maybe I can get it figured out this weekend. If so, I will let you know.

 

I agree that it's a last resort thing to take the head off - and that's the only way I know to see if the front guide was bent out of shape. Before doing that, the main thing to establish is whether the cam chain can be tensioned correctly - your video shows it is way too loose in my opinion. Does it get any better when the manual tensioner is tensioned up?

I can't remember the exact figure, but the slack in a chain should only be about 2% or 5% of the distance between the sprockets. You have 3 sprockets - I'd say 5% of the distance between the cam sprockets should be a reasonable starting point, but I have no experience with the manual adjusters.

I take it you have tensioned the cam chain adjuster according to the manufacturer's specs. Also there is plenty of info on the net about manual adjusters.

 

I originally had thecam chain tensioned correctly. The manufactureer instructions calls to tighten the manual tensioner to 1/4" - 3/8" slop in the chain. All of that was done the first time around. I have it loose trying to see what's going on. I will tighten it back up again and check everything. First I'm going to try to get a better look down into the motor.

I will take another look at it this weekend. I'm ready for a break from it.

Thanks

 

I watched the video, and I gotta say I don't know much about engines, I just took apart my first one over this last winter, but I saw some things I wonder about in the clip. Mostly what curious about is every time you get to the "pop," your wife paused cranking the engine. Is that cos it became difficult to crank momentarily, before or after the pop? Is that a clue maybe? Best of luck bro, RE: my electrical probs you found in my forum, I am in fact feeling your pain.

-Anthony

 

While turning the crank, it tightens up consistently every 180 deg CRANK turn and then pops. Once just before TDC and once just before BDC. Once it pops, it loosens up and you cansee the chain slop up in the video.

The crank turns easy until it tightens up a little in those two locations.

I would almost think it was a piston pin or rod bearing. I have a cheap automotive stethoscope that has a rod coming out of it instead of the normal cup that doctors use. You can stick the rod on a surface and it will magnify the vibration noises on that surface. I have placed it on the cams/head/rocker arms/outside of the crank case/outside of the cylinder block and on the cam chain sprockets. The sound vibration is very strong on the cam sprockets. Not just one cam sprocket but bothcam sprockets. That makes me think it has something to do with the chain.

I may have just installed the front guide wrong but it's hard to see down in there with the head on and in the frame.But why would it be consistent every 180 deg CRANK rotation?

I'm trying to check all options before I pull the head again. I don't want to pull the head again unless I just absolutely have to. I don't want to order another head gasket and I don't like the idea of reusing the one I just installed.

This is why I'm going to try to take a break from it for a few days. I just know it's going to keep eating at me until I find the problem and fix it.

I'm hoping someone will read this that has had this problem before.

Before I pull the head again I will start another post and list everything I have done and what's going on. I want to check into it a little more before I do that.

 

I think I figured it out. It looks like the rear chain guide was in a bind to one side and binding up the chain. I dont know why it was a consistent pop every 180 deg crank turn but it appears thats what the problem was. It was that consistent pop that really threw me off.

I got home from work and it was eating at me to find the problem. I had to remove the thermostat housing so I could get a better look down into the motor.

One thing I can say, I know the top end of this motor very well now. If this fixes the problem and the thing runs good once back together, I will be convinced these motors are indestructible. Especially how hot I got this thingafter the gasket went.

About to recheck the valve clearance now that I have the CCT tightened back up and the slop out of the chain. Not taking any chances. Ive already spent this much time on the motor I may as well add another 15-30 minutes to it.

Took pictures of the Manual CCT installation that Im going to post in the "HOW TO CCT" post.

Should have it all back together in a few hours.

 

Got the valve cover back on and the exhaust hooked back up.

That pop is gone.

But it sounds horrible. I think the cam chain guides may be bad or my valves are rattling real bad. It sounded like this when I first started it up the first time around and then I tightened up the CCT and thats when the popping started.Most of the noise went away when I tightened up the CCT, if I remember correctly.

It didnt sound like thiswhen the valve cover was off. Makes me think its the chain guides.

I am going to try to get some more video clips sometime tomorrow. I will record it how it is and then what it sounds like while I tighten up the CCT. And then one more with the valve cover off.

I will probably start another post once I get the video clips.

Also snapped one of the exhaust mount studs.

Have a funeral tomorrow so not sure when I will get the clips made and posted.

You guys wouldnt have any used cam chain guides laying around that you would want to sale? I need to try to find something cheap to see if thats what it is before I spend another $125 + s&h on new ones.