Cleaning carbon from valves/pistons
#1
Cleaning carbon from valves/pistons
Hi everyone,
Im in the process of rebuilding the top end of a 1987 hurricane engine.
I want to ask what the best method / chemical is to the get the valves and pistons cleaned. A lot of carbon build up over the years.
Also if you have any good advice to keep in mind when rebuilding the top end I would appreciate it.
Here are some pics for referance.
I have remoced the valves and have yet to measure the clearance / assess the state of each valve
rings and pistons good
Bonus pic of my 1990 f1
1990 and 1987
Im in the process of rebuilding the top end of a 1987 hurricane engine.
I want to ask what the best method / chemical is to the get the valves and pistons cleaned. A lot of carbon build up over the years.
Also if you have any good advice to keep in mind when rebuilding the top end I would appreciate it.
Here are some pics for referance.
I have remoced the valves and have yet to measure the clearance / assess the state of each valve
rings and pistons good
Bonus pic of my 1990 f1
1990 and 1987
#2
Make sure and protect the block sealing surfaces before you start the process. I usually put 6-8 layers of painters tape on the block and head around the mating surfaces. Piston all the way to the top. I minimize engine movement during this process, only cleaning 1 piston at a time, and have the others covered.
Brake cleaner or acetone, let it soak. Soft brass wire wheel, brass brush or 3m yellow roloc plastic"finger" disc. . After done I clean the pistons with a soft brush to get as much as possible out. Then I tip the block forward and use an air compressor to blow anything that may have dropped between the piston and cylinder wall out. If it's on an engine stand I completely flip it over and use a plastic pick or wood toothpick(NEVER METAL) to clean around that gap and make sure it is super clean. On the stand and upside down, I will hit it with brake cleaner after making sure it is clear of big bits so it can drip the little stuff out. I don't want any bits of debris to get stuck above the rings and score the walls.
After I am sure it is clean I will put back right side up and oil the gap so the rings aren't dry. Rinse, repeat the entire process.
The head is the same process, but you only need to cover the mating surfaces. Leave the valves in and sealed as you will descale the valve bottom. Then pull the valves, clean the back side, lap to the seats, etc.
Personally, I always smooth the combustion chamber in the heads, and look for areas that can be unshrouded. I also always gasket match all the ports, oil, air, water, etc to about 1 inch into the head. I don't go full port/polish unless it's going to be a hardcore machine.
Brake cleaner or acetone, let it soak. Soft brass wire wheel, brass brush or 3m yellow roloc plastic"finger" disc. . After done I clean the pistons with a soft brush to get as much as possible out. Then I tip the block forward and use an air compressor to blow anything that may have dropped between the piston and cylinder wall out. If it's on an engine stand I completely flip it over and use a plastic pick or wood toothpick(NEVER METAL) to clean around that gap and make sure it is super clean. On the stand and upside down, I will hit it with brake cleaner after making sure it is clear of big bits so it can drip the little stuff out. I don't want any bits of debris to get stuck above the rings and score the walls.
After I am sure it is clean I will put back right side up and oil the gap so the rings aren't dry. Rinse, repeat the entire process.
The head is the same process, but you only need to cover the mating surfaces. Leave the valves in and sealed as you will descale the valve bottom. Then pull the valves, clean the back side, lap to the seats, etc.
Personally, I always smooth the combustion chamber in the heads, and look for areas that can be unshrouded. I also always gasket match all the ports, oil, air, water, etc to about 1 inch into the head. I don't go full port/polish unless it's going to be a hardcore machine.
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